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Humanality
Route

Humanality

 
Humanality

Page Type: Route

Object Title: Humanality

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Winter

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.10d (YDS)

Difficulty: 6b+ (French)

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: MichaelJ

Created/Edited: Jan 19, 2007 / Jan 19, 2007

Object ID: 262168

Hits: 5088 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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You must climb this!

This climb is so cool in so many ways it's hard to know where to begin. The route ascends nearly 300 feet of the Tonsai Wall, gaining an improbable position about halfway up the dominant feature at the center of the climbing scene on the Phra Nang Peninsula. The approach is across a bar. The climbing is consistently interesting and fun, challenging enough without being really hard, pitch after pitch. The views are outstanding. The crux gave me one of the purest moments of pleasure I've ever had on rock. As Sam Ligthner Jr. puts it in his guide book: "This is an all-time classic. If you don't like it, you should go home!" Worth a trip to Thailand.

Getting There

Go to the Freedom Bar at the south side of Tonsai Beach. Cross the patio.

Route Description

At Freedom Bar, climb the ladder to the first ledge of Tonsai Wall. Lightner's book suggests starting the climb by ascending the tree behind the bar (Tarzan, 5.9) but a sign there urges people to use the ladder instead.

From the ledge, go left into the bushes and up a tunnel to the next ledge. Traverse left to a stalactite.

Pitch 1: Climb the stalactite, gain the next ledge and traverse right to a cave.

Pitch 2: Climb out of the cave around the corner to the right. Gain big air immediately. Follow the bolts to the next anchor.

Pitch 3: Continue up.

Pitch 4: Here's where things get really interesting.

DO NOT READ THIS IF YOU WANT TO FIGURE OUT THE CRUX ON YOUR OWN:

More fun climbing ends abruptly. You'll be staring at a blank wall with two bolts sticking out from a section that looks like 5.13 climbing. I found myself shaking my head and thinking I must be off route. I tried making some moves and soon begin to think about leaving gear to lower off back to the belay. Then I saw it out of the corner of my eye: The Thank God stalactite. Fun stemming, followed by a delicate traverse to the next belay.

Pitch 5: Some pumpy climbing to the finish.

Descent: Two 60 meter raps back to the bar.

This is a morning climb and very popular. Go early, 7 or 8 am, to avoid the heat and sun.

Essential Gear

Two 60 meter ropes. About ten draws. 50 baht per team member for beer at the base of the climb.

External Links

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Images

Tonsai Wall