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Lion King
Route

Lion King

 
Lion King

Page Type: Route

Location: Thailand, Asia

Lat/Lon: 32.84000°N / 113.91°W

Object Title: Lion King

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.11d (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
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Page By: MichaelJ

Created/Edited: Mar 6, 2007 / Mar 6, 2007

Object ID: 275794

Hits: 4895 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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Overview

The Lion King is an awesome looking flake on the right hand side of Tonsai Beach. Yosemite climbers will think it looks like an easy layback. They'll be wrong.

Getting There

From Tonsai, walk to the beach and head as if taking the jungle trail to Railey. Before the big boulder on the beach you should spot a striking flake hanging off the wall. This is Lion King.

Route Description

Yard up on some jugs to reach the first clip and climb up next to the flake.

There's a good rest here and you'll need it. Move out along the flake, reaching long for some good holds on the underside (which are few and far between). The feet are polished and tricky. Move carefully along the flake until you can throw a knee bar under it, shake out and make the crux clip. A fall before this clip is a bad idea as you'll swing back into the corner.

Climb over the flake (a heel hook helps) to another stance.

The crux is from here to the anchor. Some people go straight up and throw high for a bomber jug under the chains, others heel hook left and reach long.

Many people rack up a lot of frequent flier miles at this point.

The climb is 13 meters long.

Essential Gear

Five quick draws.

External Links

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Images

User Profile ImageHeading toward the real cruxClipping the anchorThe routeUpwardsMoving out under the flakeThe crux clip