Inner Circle, 5.10a-5.10c

Overview/Approach

Inner Circle appears to be on private land or lease, similar to the Dolphin.  However the local guide does not mention this issue as of 2020.  You essentially have to cross a fence on approach, that on return we noticed indicated private property. There are only two established routes (1980’s) on Inner Circle’s southwest face, both mostly bolted.  The fixed gear on both routes has been replaced in not the too distant past (2020).   They are both worthy and both require a piece of gear or two.   This face is a colorful huecoed wall with a bit of moss.  Each route has its own fixed rap. 

The easiest approach by far is to park at the Boxtop Trailhead near campsite #11.  Hike down the trail to the South Creek.  At the creek, cross the fence to the east and meander across brush and meadow back up a hill towards Inner Circle to the southeast.  There is a corridor below the two routes which are southwest facing.  Access this corridor for some private climbing and/or private whatever! The cows make nice paths through the sage.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the West Facing Wall

Inner Circle- 5.10a***/ Both of the mixed climbs on this formation are outstanding routes by City standards.  The namesake of this formation is the bolted line on the left and is relatively sustained at the grade.  The crux is the mossy slab start, navigating the large spread out knobs to reach the excellent patina stone above.  The route is well bolted, respecting the one trad opportunity (horizontal) near the finish.  Most any medium piece of gear will fit the horizontal in some spot.  A few more final steep moves reach a modern (2020) fixed rap.  90’.  A medium piece of gear or two.  Dow

Friends Invited- 5.10c**/ This route is just as good and sustained at the grade as Inner Circle, worthy of the same three-star recommendation.  Like Inner Circle, the route respects one solid trad placement by not bolting a slanting vertical crack midway (small to medium gear).  The crux is early with a bit of route-finding challenge via blind side pulls.  I believe these routes have been retrofitted with more bolts than stated in the most recent guide (2020) or at least it felt that way. The hardware is newer than the 80’s when these routes were established.   90’.  A small to medium piece or two.  Cold shuts at top. Trends right and then left.  Dow