Kloochman Rock

Overview

If you've ever seen a picture of the dorsal plate of a dinosaur called a Dimetrodon, then you can understand what Kloochman Rock looks like when viewed from the north. It is a 1200 foot high sheer-faced piece of andesite that rises up just east of White Pass near Rimrock Lake in the Washington Cascades (not to be confused with the peak of the same name found in Olympic National Park). It offers at least 12 known routes among it's gullies and cracks to the summit of the main mass as well as it's 3 pointed peaks. Beckey says the routes are Class 3 and 4 but there are plenty of other cracks and gullies that might offer more technical climbing. The only problem is that the rock is crap. It's chossy and mossy and generally just rotten so take that into consideration if contemplating it.

There is a summit register at top and the notes state that basically everyone gets lost going to and coming from the rock (and I can attest to that). There are roads that come pretty close into the east and west sides but you still have to find your way along game trails to the rock and they criss cross all over the place. The easiest route is the Southwest Route which climbs a ramp along the west face and is easy Class 3.

Kloochman Rock lies within the Wenatchee National Forest which is basically just southeast of Mt. Rainier and northeast of Mt. Adams. It is just east of the Goat Rocks area. The area also has alot of winter activities if you are so interested.

There are 6 routes to the main mass and the summit. Three on the west side: South Terrace Route (class 4), Southwest Route (class 3) and the Douglas Variation of the Southwest Route (Beckey does not state what it is rated but I would estimate hard 4th or easy Class 5). On the east side there is the Staircase Route (class 3), Deception Chimney (Class 4) and Rumble Gully (Class 3).

There are 3 pointed peaks rising to the north of the main mass and they are numbered from the north Peaks 1 thru 3. Peak 1 has the Northwest Face Route (Class 4) along with a Northeast Gully Variation (also Class 4) and the Southwest Route which is Class 4 as well. Peak 2 can also be reached via the Southwest Route to Peak 1 (Class 4) as well as the Green Thumb Route (Class 3), Northeast Face (II 5.6 FA 1970 by Yoder, Farley and Adams) and Appetite for Destruction (III 5.10D FA 10/02 by Puryear and Richards). Finally Peak 3 has it's own route on Class 4 friable rock. Consult Beckey's book for more details.

The name Kloochman is Chinook for "wife". Indian legend says Kloochman was a woman turned to stone by a medicine man. Nearby Goose Egg Mountain (also with climbing routes) was supposed to be a Yakima Chief as well.

Getting There

From the west (Seattle or Portland) take I-5 to exit 68 (Highway 12) and take 12 east through White Pass 16.7 miles to Tieton Road. Turn south (right) here. It is not well-marked but there is a sign that says Public Boat Landing/Camp Ghormley near milemarker 168. The road immediately crosses the Tieton River.

For west face routes see the info on the Southwest Route for directions.
For east face routes, go 1.8 miles on Tieton Roadto Forest Road 570. Turn left here and go 2.5 miles to Forest Road 1201. Turn right here and go 1.8 miles to Trail 1126.

From the east (Yakima), take Highway 12 to the same spot and turn left onto Tieton Road.

Red Tape

There were no signs requiring Northwest Forest Passes so there does not appear to be any fees or red tape.

When To Climb

June thru October although the various gullies look intriguing for a winter climb. Tieton Road is supposed to be plowed somewhat but that would still add several miles on to the approach but it could be done.

Camping

Camping is allowed in the area and there are many campsites to be found. However there are several campsites within minutes. The closest is Hause Creek Campground. You can reserve spots there as well. For information regarding all campsites, click here

Mountain Conditions

Naches Ranger District

Images

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