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Tieton Peak
Mountain/Rock

Tieton Peak

 
Tieton Peak

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 46.51222°N / 121.39515°W

Object Title: Tieton Peak

Activities: Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7768 ft / 2368 m

 

Page By: Brian Jenkins

Created/Edited: Oct 20, 2006 / Oct 15, 2010

Object ID: 237041

Hits: 7353 

Page Score: 91.7%  - 36 Votes 

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Tieton Peak and ~50 Goats
 


Tieton peak is located in the Goat Rocks Wilderness.Tieton is pronounced "tie-it-tun" not like the Tetons in WY/ID. The peak's summit is in the middle of a long ridge that starts at Bear Creek Mountain and ends between Gilbert Peak and Ives Peak.

The Goats are quite unique in their own way. The group sits all alone to the north of Adams and to the SE of Rainier. They are remnants of old volcanoes and are made up of Pleistocene andesite and basalt.

The high alpine meadows are a main reason folks go into the Goat Rocks. Meadows that go on for miles and miles. Aspen and larch groves sprinkle the entire east side of the range. It is a great place to visit in the spring for flowers and color in the fall. Elk reside all through the area as do the namesake mountain goats.

Views are great. Rainier to the NW and Adams to the south. Gilbert, Old Snowy, and Ives are front and center. Great views of the Conrad Glacier, Ives Glacier and McCall Glacier.

Route Overview

Tieton fr west
 

Tieton peak is not often climbed and one can see why. Climbers must deal with some of the nastiest scree, talus, and loose unpredictable rotten crumbly crags to gain the summit. It would be hard to find good protection it is so crumbly. This peak would be much nicer when covered in snow.

The SW route is a long (19-20 miles rt) day climb or a good overnight. The ridge goes well (C3) till about ½ mile from the summit. Then it gets nasty. C4-C5 depending on the spot you chose to gain the summit. See route.

East Ridge would be shorter and may work better than the SW. C3-4 maybe some class 5 for the summit block.

NE Ridge from Bear Creek Mountain might work but one would have to get around the Devils Horns. This route would be quite sketchy as the rock is so bad. C4-C5

The North Face has been skied. They climbed the SW Ridge and skied the NF. Trip reports here

Getting There

Conrad Creek Drainage approach access.

From Route 12 take the Tieton Road that goes around Rimrock Lake. Turn right onto South Fork Tieton River Road. Take that 13-14 miles to the end.

Snowgrass/Cipus Basin Approach access:

Drive to Packwood on Rt 12. About 3 miles SW of Packwood turn on Johnson Creek Road (FSR21). Drive FSR 21 for about 13-14 miles to Hugo Lake. Take a left at the fork for FSR 2150. Drive FSR 2150 for about a mile. At a fork, stay to the left on FSR 2150 for another 2 miles to FSR 405 loop which takes you to the Snowgrass Flats TH. .

Approaches to routes

Conrad Creek Drainage approach route:
One can approach from Cipus Basin. It will be a little shorter but you would have to climb up and over a saddle to the east of Ives Peak and would be more difficult. The Conrad Creek Drainage is a little more direct and not difficult.

[img:237091:alignleft:small:] The parking lot is a few 100' from the gate on the road. Then one has a choice of taking the road or dropping down to a trail that takes you along the meadows. The meadows are a nicer choice. The road is the same distance but less appealing.

After 1.5 miles you reach an intersection. Look for the signed trail for SF Tieton River Trail. Hike on this trail for .3-.5 mi. or so. Take a right at a signed intersection. Then you are on the Conrad Creek drainage. Follow the trail through several marshes and meadows for a couple of miles. You go through one last marsh at around 4-4.5 miles. Then you start your ascent at 4500'. There is a trail all the way up to the upper meadows, but there are also many other trail weaving in and out of the main trail. It is easy to get off trail but it will magically appear again.

Right around 5500'-6000' or so, the trail starts to open up. You go through many small meadows. The trail starts to descend a bit and you will see some red colored slab (around 6300'-6500') in the trail and right there is a trail off to the right that takes you up to the bench. (If you stay on the path to the left it will take you down to a large meadow below the falls. If you follows the lower trail to gain access to the Cold Lake basin then you will run into a nasty scree field with some class 3 and exposure and then some thick alpine fir bushwhacking.) Make sure you stay on the right upper trail to gain the basin. Once on the bench it is all open meadow hike up to Cold Lake. This is where the SW ridge route starts. [img:235558:aligncenter:medium:]

Cipus basin/Snowgrass Flats approach:
Hike Trail #96 or 96a about 3.7 miles to Snowgrass Flats. Head of trail on a small path towards Ives Peak. Take the saddle to the east of Ives and drop over to the north side on rotten steep scree/talus/snow/glacier. Work your way NE to the SW ridge of Tieton.

One can also gain the SW Ridge cross country through SF Tieton River and McCall basin. Most is on an abandoned trail and cross country.

Camping

Many great places to camp. Snowgrass Flats is quite popular so if you want solitude I would choose the Cold Lake area. The meadows all the way from Conrad Meadows to Cold lake are great places to camp. Be mindful of impact in fragile areas though. There is also cattle roaming the lower areas of Tieton River valley. Elk are found throughout the area along with their smell and droppings :). [img:249107:aligncenter:medium:]

Red Tape

Only a NW Forest Pass is needed for parking.

When To Climb

One can get into the Goat Rocks most any time of year. Winter on must be mindful of high avalanche danger. Some BC great ski runs all through the area.

Summer/Fall one must be mindful of heavy rock fall as the rock is very loose and rotten there.

Links and Maps

Fun TR thread on NWH started by Janet.

Green trails Map #303 White Pass Wa. And Green trails #303 Walupt Lake Wa.

Topozone Map

Conditions from Gifford Pinchot NF site

Thanks and resources

"Beckey Alpine Guide" Columbia River to Stevens Pass Fred Beckey

"Roadside Geology" Alt and Hyndman

To my climb partners Tom Davenport for providing me with Images

Thank to Randy Busch for providing images and beta from the ridge.

Additions and Corrections

[ Post an Addition or Correction ]
Viewing: 1-4 of 4    
KlenkeGilbert

Klenke

Voted 10/10

A nice addition.

You should redo all references of "Mt. Curtis-Gilbert" to "Gilbert Peak" as the latter is the official name (once again).

Also, you should provide a pronunciation for the peak as most people will want to pronounce it similar to Grand Teton. It is pronounced "tie-it-un."
Posted Oct 20, 2006 11:00 pm
KlenkeRe: Gilbert

Klenke

Voted 10/10

The 1904 Mount Adams USGS map had "Gilbert Peak" and an elevation of 8,201 ft. Curtis-Gilbert was introduced later but I suspect it was never official. And if you note, the words "Gilbert Peak" appear on the (current) map.



And an interesting note about Gilbert's height per an email exchange with Dr. Roper:

"Lastly, the benchmark atop Gilbert has 8201 stamped on it. Where did the 8184 feet come from? I notice there was one of those pole BMs so ubiquitous in the Goat Rocks (must have seen seven of them incl. one near the crack on Big Horn) about 15 feet lower than the summit rocks just north of the highest point. Perhaps this is the real 8184 point and the summit really is/still is 8201 ft."



Also, thanks for putting the pronunciation up there in the Overview. One small change: put it as "tie-it-un" instead of "tie-it-on." A small textual difference but a large one phonetically.
Posted Oct 21, 2006 2:52 am
MattDurkeeEast Ridge Class 2-3

MattDurkee

Hasn't voted

Nice page!



I would rate the East Ridge route as Class 3 at most. Mostly Class 2. Fairly easy scramble.



Posted Jun 19, 2014 5:44 pm
Brian JenkinsRe: East Ridge Class 2-3

Brian Jenkins

Voted 10/10

Thanks for the info. Would be great if you could add the route page! Any photos?



Thanks,

Brian
Posted Jun 19, 2014 10:34 pm

Viewing: 1-4 of 4    

Images

Tieton Peak and ~50 GoatsPictured here is Tieton Peak...Summit viewTieton Peak from...Tieton fr westTieton Peak from Goat Rock SaddleTieton from the PCT
Tieton PeakTieton summit