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Les Bans
Mountain/Rock

Les Bans

 
Les Bans

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Dauphiné, France, Europe

Lat/Lon: 44.85000°N / 6.33530°E

Object Title: Les Bans

Elevation: 12040 ft / 3670 m

 

Page By: om

Created/Edited: Jul 15, 2001 / Oct 21, 2005

Object ID: 150436

Hits: 10403 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview


Geographical classification: Western Alps > High Dauphiné Alps > Les Bans

Les Bans (3669m) are an important montain of Ecrins range(4101m).
Les Bans are a node in the middle of 3 ridges:
-the north ridge is the main ridge of the massif with La Meije (3983m), Les Ecrins (4101m) ,L'ailefroide (3954m)
-the south ridge (the less important) contents Le sirac (3440m) the southest important summit of the massif.
-the west ridge contents La Roche de la Muzelle (3465m), l'Olan (3564m), les Rouies (3589m).
The north side of Les Bans is ice covered by Glacier de la Pilatte.
Les Bans have 3 faces:
-The West face is the end of Valgaudemar valley (la Séveraisse is the river), 25 Km long (800m-1700m).
-The North face is the end of Vénéon valley, 35 Km long (750m-2500m).
-The east and south face are the end of Onde valley, 9 Km long (1170m-2100m).
the closest villages are respectively for the 3 valley : La chapelle en Valgaudemar (1100m), La Bérarde (1758m), Vallouise (1167m).
Each side has it's hut: Chalet Hôtel du Gioberney (1700m), La Pilatte hut (2580m) and Les Bans hut (2076m).


The easiest route at PD+ (US II/III is a classic mountaineering excursion involving serious (roped) glacier travel, a knife edge scramble along a ridge followed by a rock climb to the airy summit. The tremendous buttresses rising above the beautiful Pilatte glacier draws you onward from La Berarde all the way to the summit. The views of the adjacent peaks including l'Ailefroide and Sirac are awesome.

Getting There


Park your car at La Berarde (bus possible from Grenoble). Follow the main valley trail SE on the (true) right bank of the river to reach the Pilatte refuge (2572m) after about 4 hours walk. The refuge is fully serviced offering good accomodation and food. The best map is the French IGN sheet no. 241 (1:25000).

Red Tape


No red tape. Modest charges for camping at La Berarde apply. As in most civilised countries the fauna and flora are protected by law.

When To Climb


Les Bans is best climbed in the summer months; from mid June to mid September. The mountain is a very serious expedition in winter or spring due to verglas on the E.N.E. ridge and the possibility of avalanches.

Les Bans north face



Sunrise and sunset



Camping / huts


There is a good camp site at La Berarde (modest fees). No camping is allowed in the Ecrins Park though in practise no-one will be chase off for camping above say 2700m ( a tough pastime in such a wild and glaciated area).

Mountain Conditions


There are no web cams to my knowledge though there are plenty of good web sites that give weather conditions across the Alps. In particular the C.A.F. (Club Alpine Francais) web site is worth checking out.

meteo 7 days Briançon

meteo 7 days Bourg d'Oisans

meteo 7 days Grenoble

meteo 7 days Gap


Routes overview


Route name: Les Bans normal route
Difficulty: PD
Time required: hut to west Pass: 3h-3.30h + 3h-3.30h to summit = 4h-5h from hut to South summit
Essential gear: crampons
Start point: Pilatte hut (2572m)
Top point: Les Bans South summit (3670m)
Difference in height: hut to west Pass: 830m + 268m to summit = 1098m
First ascent:W.A.B Coolidge, Christian Almer, Aldrich Almer, July 14 1878


Route name: Les Bans north corridor
Difficulty: D sup with good conditions (ice 55°)
Time required: hut to rimaye: 1.30h + 3h-6h to corridor summit + 1.30h-2h to summit = 6h-9.30h
Essential gear: crampons, crabs, mousquetons
Start point: Pilatte hut (2572m)
Top point: Les Bans north summit (3662m)
Difference in height: hut to rimaye: 650m + 400m to summit = 1050m
First ascent:M. Bourde, L. Dubost, R. Duplat June 25 1950

Route name: Les Bans north east pillar
Difficulty: AD (if using easy corridors on the left) D (III, IV, IV sup if using pillar ridge)
Time required: hut to basis: 2h + 4h to north summit + 1h to south summit = 7h
Essential gear: crampons, pitons > 6, mousquetons
Start point: Pilatte hut (2572m)
Top point: Les Bans South summit (3670m)
Difference in height: hut to basis: 650m + 450m to summit = 1100m
First ascent:B.R Goodfellow, T. Graham Brown, Alexander Graven, Casimir Rodier, september 1 1933

Route name: Les Bans north west summit
Difficulty: AD (but long)
Time required: hotel to rimaye: 2.30h + 4h-5h to west summit = 6.30h-7.30h
Essential gear: crampons
Start point: Gioberney hotel (1650m)
Top point: Les Bans north west summit (3632m)
Difference in height: hotel to rimaye: 850m + 1130m to summit = 1980m
First ascent:A. Reynier, Maximin Gaspard, Joseph Turc, August 19 1895

Route name: Les Bans south east face
Difficulty: TD sup (20 Pitons)
Time required: hut to basis: 3.30h-4h + 6h-7h to summit = 9.30h-11h
Essential gear: crampons,mousquetons (the route is pitoned)
Start point: Les Bans hut (2076m)
Top point: Les Bans summit (3670m)
Difference in height: hut to basis: 1150m + 450m to summit = 1600m
First ascent:J.P. Fédèle, A. Giraud,T. Langevin, J. Lepeut, August 8 1963

Route name: Les Bans south east side Picard route
Difficulty: D (good rock III, IV, IV sup and ice mixed on 2nd part)
Time required: hut to basis: 2h-2.30h + 5h to summit = 7h-7.30h
Essential gear: crampons,mousquetons (the route is pitoned)
Start point: Les Bans hut (2076m)
Top point: Les Bans summit (3670m)
Difference in height: hut to basis: 850m + 750m to summit = 1600m
First ascent:J. Chenais, R. Picard, P. Scherman, Jean Vernet, July 28 1938

Route name: Les Bans south east side 2nd route
Difficulty: D sup (IV,V)
Time required: hut to basis: 3.30h-4h + 6h-7h to summit = 9.30h-11h
Essential gear: crampons,mousquetons (the route is pitoned)
Start point: Les Bans hut (2076m)
Top point: Les Bans summit (3670m)
Difference in height: hut to basis: 850m + 750m to summit = 1600m
First ascent:J.Dupin, T. Langevin, July 25 1954

Glacier de la Pilatte



Panorama

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