Pic Nord des Cavales

Overview

Geographical classification: Western Alps > High Dauphiné Alps > Grande Ruine group Pic Nord des Cavales is a pyramid situated in the middle of more important summits : La Meije and La Grande Ruine. It belongs to a 4 km long ridge, N S oriented, connecting Le Pavé to Pic Maître. The mountain has 2 main sides : the west side 1000Hm over Etançon valley, a branch of Vénéon valley, and the east side over a wild and isolated branch of high Romanche valley. Pic Nord des Cavales is close to "Clot des Cavales pass", the main traverse hiking pass to go from Vénéon Valley (La Bérarde) to Romanche valley (La Grave). This pass can be not easy to traverse depending of ice or rock fall conditions. Pic Nord des Cavales is ofently climbed by a lot of people, especially the normal route, a nice and short easy climb on good granite.

Routes overview

All the routes are rock climbing routes. Aproach from Pavé hut on the east side or Châtelleret hut from the west side normal route on SSE ridge PD+,III 1h30 from Clot des Cavales pass,descend on the same route. E face: 170 Hm Génépi direct TD- V, 1h30 approach + 5h ascent Trafic TD+ VIb , 1h30 approach Tormoz D+ 1h30 approach + 3h ascent Voie Gaspard AD NW face : 350Hm Voie Gauci D- V Voie Couzy D A1/V 6h30 ascent including 2h 30 approach from Châtelleret hut. W Ridge: W ridge route 450Hm D+ V 7h ascent including 2h approach. S face : 350 Hm Le Diable au corp TD+ VIb/A1 8h ascent including 2h30 approach. Action directe ED VIc 9h ascent including 2h30 approach. La Fureur de vivre ED- VIb 9h ascent including 2h30 approach. Guiot Joulia D V.No equipment.

Getting There

by car (highly recommended) West side access from grenoble: Grenoble >> Bourg d'Oisans >> Saint Christophe >> La Bérarde >> Vallon du Chatelleret. Parking in La Bérarde. East side access from grenoble: Grenoble >> Bourg d'Oisans >> La Grave>> Villar d'Arêne >> Le Pied du Col - Pont d'Arsine >> Alpe du Villar d'Arêne - High Romanche valley >> Vallon du Clos des Cavales. Parking near Pont d'Arsine. It's possible to come from Briançon via Lautaret pass and high Romanche valley (East side access) : Briançon >> Mônetier les bains >> Lautaret pass >> Villar d'Arêne >> Le Pied du Col - Pont d'Arsine >> Alpe du Villar d'Arêne - High Romanche valley >> Vallon du Clos des Cavales. Parking near Pont d'Arsine. It's possible to come from Briançon via Le Casset and Arsine pass (East side access with longer but very nice approach hike) : Briançon >> Mônetier les bains >> Le Casset >> Col d'Arsine >> Alpe du Villar d'Arêne - High Romanche valley >> Vallon du Clos des Cavales. Parking in Le Casset For those coming from oversea : Fly to Lyon international airport. Car (recommended) or train to Grenoble, followed by bus to Bourg d'Oisans and smaller bus up the narrow road to Saint Christophe en Oisans and La Bérarde (3 per day in July/Aug Grenoble to La Bérarde) . Car highly recommended ! Or Fly to Marseille international airport. Car (recommended) or train/bus to Briançon (300km), followed by bus to Villar d'Arêne or Le Casset . Car highly recommended ! Or come to Briançon from Torino (Italy)

Red Tape

No Red Tape except Ecrins National Park rules (no dog, no camping, only bivouak allowed, no fire, no MTB, no destruction of wilderness) Refer to Ecrins National park rules.

When To Climb

Summer period is the prefered period for mountaineering June to october. Prefer the short summer period when huts are guarded. The logistic may be then simplified. But if you prefer total wilderness, the end of season is not bad for pure rock climbing.

Huts

Châtelleret hut CAF 2232 m Access : Saint Christophe en Oisans >>La Bérarde >> Chatelleret valley. Activities : mountaineering - Rock climbing- Hiking- Ski mountaineering - Mountaineering routes and summits : Pic nord des Cavales- Gandolière- Râteau- Pic Geny- Têtes N et S du Replat - High routes : To la Selle hut, l’Alpe de Villar d'Arène, La Grave via Brêche de la Meije - Ski routes: Brêche de la Meije - col de la Casse Déserte - col du Replat The hut is guarded some months and weekends: Spring: usually in April and begining of May Summer: middle of June to Middle of September Reservation is mandatory, please contact Gérard Turc: adress: 5 chemin de la Buissonière - 38860 Les Deux Alpes phone number : 04.76.80.03.86 Hut phone number: 04.76.79.08.27 Beds in summer: 70 +20 beds under tent In winter : 62 The hut belongs to CAF ISERE : 32 avenue Félix Viallet 38000 GRENOBLE Tél : 04.76.87.03.73 Fax : 04.76.85.26.77 Chatelleret hut route on Oisans.com Pavé hut CAF 2841 m Metallic hut without any comfort for 26 users. Access : 4 h 00 to hike to the hut from the parking at Pont d'Arsine. Hut man : Jérôme FOUVET Hut man Address: 455, route du Guiers 38380 Miribel les Echelles Hut man phone: 33 6 81 86 04 85

Camping

West (Vénéon - La Bérarde) side: CAMPING LES FETOULES 38520 ST-CHRISTOPHE-EN-OISANS Tél : 04 76 80 23 99 Fax : 04 76 95 47 97 Email : rafting.veneon@wanadoo.fr Internet: www.rafting-veneon.com CAMPING MUNICIPAL DE LA BERARDE La Bérarde 38520 ST-CHRISTOPHE-EN-OISANS Tél : 04 76 79 20 45 Fax : 04 7679 06 97 Email : Internet: www.berarde.com East (Romanche - Villar d'Arêne) side: Arsine Camp Site 05480 Villar d'Arêne Phone : +33 4.76.79.93.07

Mountain Conditions

a href="http://www.avalanche-net.com/meteo/gfs/affiche_ville.php?Departement=05&Ville=2">Briançon meteo forecast 7 days Bourg d'Oisans meteo forecast 7 days Grenoble meteo forecast 7 days