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Pic Nord des Cavales
Mountain/Rock

Pic Nord des Cavales

 
Pic Nord des Cavales

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: High Dauphiné, France, Europe

Object Title: Pic Nord des Cavales

Elevation: 11030 ft / 3362 m

 

Page By: om

Created/Edited: Dec 8, 2005 / Dec 14, 2005

Object ID: 155120

Hits: 4920 

Page Score: 82.32%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview


Geographical classification: Western Alps > High Dauphiné Alps > Grande Ruine group

Pic Nord des Cavales is a pyramid situated in the middle of more important summits : La Meije and La Grande Ruine.
It belongs to a 4 km long ridge, N S oriented, connecting Le Pavé to Pic Maître.
The mountain has 2 main sides : the west side 1000Hm over Etançon valley, a branch of Vénéon valley, and the east side over a wild and isolated branch of high Romanche valley.

Pic Nord des Cavales is close to "Clot des Cavales pass", the main traverse hiking pass to go from Vénéon Valley (La Bérarde) to Romanche valley (La Grave).
This pass can be not easy to traverse depending of ice or rock fall conditions.

Pic Nord des Cavales is ofently climbed by a lot of people, especially the normal route, a nice and short easy climb on good granite.

Routes overview


All the routes are rock climbing routes. Aproach from Pavé hut on the east side or Châtelleret hut from the west side

normal route on SSE ridge PD+,III 1h30 from Clot des Cavales pass,descend on the same route.

E face: 170 Hm

Génépi direct TD- V, 1h30 approach + 5h ascent
Trafic TD+ VIb , 1h30 approach
Tormoz D+ 1h30 approach + 3h ascent
Voie Gaspard AD


NW face : 350Hm

Voie Gauci D- V
Voie Couzy D A1/V 6h30 ascent including 2h 30 approach from Châtelleret hut.


W Ridge:

W ridge route 450Hm D+ V 7h ascent including 2h approach.


S face : 350 Hm

Le Diable au corp TD+ VIb/A1 8h ascent including 2h30 approach.
Action directe ED VIc 9h ascent including 2h30 approach.
La Fureur de vivre ED- VIb 9h ascent including 2h30 approach.
Guiot Joulia D V.No equipment.

Getting There


by car (highly recommended)

West side access from grenoble:
Grenoble >> Bourg d'Oisans >> Saint Christophe >> La Bérarde >> Vallon du Chatelleret. Parking in La Bérarde.

East side access from grenoble:
Grenoble >> Bourg d'Oisans >> La Grave>> Villar d'Arêne >> Le Pied du Col - Pont d'Arsine >> Alpe du Villar d'Arêne - High Romanche valley >> Vallon du Clos des Cavales. Parking near Pont d'Arsine.

It's possible to come from Briançon via Lautaret pass and high Romanche valley (East side access) :
Briançon >> Mônetier les bains >> Lautaret pass >> Villar d'Arêne >> Le Pied du Col - Pont d'Arsine >> Alpe du Villar d'Arêne - High Romanche valley >> Vallon du Clos des Cavales. Parking near Pont d'Arsine.

It's possible to come from Briançon via Le Casset and Arsine pass (East side access with longer but very nice approach hike) :
Briançon >> Mônetier les bains >> Le Casset >> Col d'Arsine >> Alpe du Villar d'Arêne - High Romanche valley >> Vallon du Clos des Cavales. Parking in Le Casset


For those coming from oversea :
Fly to Lyon international airport. Car (recommended) or train to Grenoble, followed by bus to Bourg d'Oisans and smaller bus up the narrow road to Saint Christophe en Oisans and La Bérarde (3 per day in July/Aug Grenoble to La Bérarde) . Car highly recommended !

Or Fly to Marseille international airport. Car (recommended) or train/bus to Briançon (300km), followed by bus to Villar d'Arêne or Le Casset . Car highly recommended !

Or come to Briançon from Torino (Italy)

Red Tape


No Red Tape except Ecrins National Park rules (no dog, no camping, only bivouak allowed, no fire, no MTB, no destruction of wilderness)
Refer to Ecrins National park rules.

When To Climb


Summer period is the prefered period for mountaineering June to october. Prefer the short summer period when huts are guarded. The logistic may be then simplified. But if you prefer total wilderness, the end of season is not bad for pure rock climbing.

Huts


Châtelleret hut CAF 2232 m
Access : Saint Christophe en Oisans >>La Bérarde >> Chatelleret valley.
Activities : mountaineering - Rock climbing- Hiking- Ski mountaineering
- Mountaineering routes and summits : Pic nord des Cavales- Gandolière- Râteau- Pic Geny- Têtes N et S du Replat
- High routes : To la Selle hut, l’Alpe de Villar d'Arène, La Grave via Brêche de la Meije
- Ski routes: Brêche de la Meije - col de la Casse Déserte - col du Replat

The hut is guarded some months and weekends:
Spring: usually in April and begining of May
Summer: middle of June to Middle of September
Reservation is mandatory, please contact Gérard Turc:
adress: 5 chemin de la Buissonière - 38860 Les Deux Alpes
phone number : 04.76.80.03.86
Hut phone number: 04.76.79.08.27

Beds in summer: 70 +20 beds under tent
In winter : 62
The hut belongs to CAF ISERE : 32 avenue Félix Viallet 38000 GRENOBLE
Tél : 04.76.87.03.73
Fax : 04.76.85.26.77

Chatelleret hut route on Oisans.com

Pavé hut CAF 2841 m
Metallic hut without any comfort for 26 users.
Access : 4 h 00 to hike to the hut from the parking at Pont d'Arsine.

Hut man : Jérôme FOUVET
Hut man Address: 455, route du Guiers 38380 Miribel les Echelles
Hut man phone: 33 6 81 86 04 85


Camping


West (Vénéon - La Bérarde) side:

CAMPING LES FETOULES
38520 ST-CHRISTOPHE-EN-OISANS
Tél : 04 76 80 23 99
Fax : 04 76 95 47 97
Email : rafting.veneon@wanadoo.fr
Internet: www.rafting-veneon.com

CAMPING MUNICIPAL DE LA BERARDE
La Bérarde 38520 ST-CHRISTOPHE-EN-OISANS
Tél : 04 76 79 20 45
Fax : 04 7679 06 97
Email :
Internet: www.berarde.com

East (Romanche - Villar d'Arêne) side:
Arsine Camp Site
05480 Villar d'Arêne
Phone : +33 4.76.79.93.07

Mountain Conditions


a href="http://www.avalanche-net.com/meteo/gfs/affiche_ville.php?Departement=05&Ville=2">Briançon meteo forecast 7 days
Bourg d'Oisans meteo forecast 7 days
Grenoble meteo forecast 7 days

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