Yosemite National Park > Matterhorn Peak > Climber's LogMatterhorn Peak Climber's Log
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| ernestsson | A Little In Over Our Heads | |
| Inspired by Dharma Bums, a desire to get more into mountain climbing, and the proximity to my grandparents' cabin (in the Virginia Lakes valley a few valleys over to the southeast) I decided to try to climb this peak with my girlfriend. Too ambitious. Also didn't do my homework well. We approached the peak from the north, scrambling up the East Couloir (as near as I can tell), making it to within at most 500 feet of the summit, but we weren't sure where to go from the east ridge and had reached our turnback time. We weren't as comfortable with the terrain as we'd like so descended via the Southeast Slope and Horse Creek Pass, getting to back to the trailhead well after dark. Will have to come back, with a USGS map and better planning, and give it another try! | |
| Posted Jun 11, 2013 1:40 am | ||
| Saluki72 | Great Trip!  Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2013 | |
| Awesome trip up, snow was a little sketchy coming back down but the views up top were worth it. | |
| Posted Apr 18, 2013 7:53 pm | ||
| Hyadventure | North Arete Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2012 | |
| A long a$$ drive to make a long a$$ climb. I thought I was toast by the time I finished the approach. Let my partner lead P1 and by the time it was my turn to lead my head was back into it. Lead P2 (very easy) P4 (Spicy and long) a short P5 (only places 1 peice) and the interesting 4th class traverse to the true summit. My partner got the money pitch P6. | |
| Posted Oct 19, 2012 3:13 pm | ||
| ChuckO | North Arete Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2012 | |
| Successful climb & summit with Paul F.; trip was full definition of "mountaineering = nice!; Paul lead all the pitches of technical climb (thanks!); the 5.6 crack pitch on the blank face with lots of air was awesome!!; tough (for me) final move onto top-out of climb. | |
| Posted Oct 15, 2012 3:01 pm | ||
| roylac | Matterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guide Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012 | |
| I'm not an experienced climber but my story and video might be helpful for others who are planning this climb. http://roy.lachica.no/matterhorn/ | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2012 2:50 pm | ||
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| Hyadventure | Re: Matterhorn via Hörnli ridge with guide | |
| This log is for Matterhorn Peak in California. You might want to move this post. | |
| Posted Oct 19, 2012 3:03 pm | ||
| Vitaliy M. | Double Dihedral | |
| Did double Dihedral and traversed to Dragtooth and Doodad after | |
| Posted Aug 27, 2012 3:39 pm | ||
| seano | Standard route Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012 | |
| Kind of a crappy sand slog, but with a good view. Day 1 of the Sierra Challenge. Trip report. | |
| Posted Aug 11, 2012 9:30 pm | ||
| mengbo | SE slope Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012 | |
| day hike from Twin Lakes. there was a heavy thunder storm the night before in that area. | |
| Posted Aug 6, 2012 2:27 pm | ||
| SeanReedy | Cattle Creek TH to Horse Creek to East Couloir to HC Pass to Summit; return via Horse Creek to Mono Village Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2012 | |
| My lab and I started at Cattle Creek TH and then traveled up Horse Creek to above the first big talus pile (the unnecessary to climb heavily ducked one). We turned off the regular approach route way early and headed up toward Sawtooth Ridge passing a nice tarn, stream, and tower, eventually scrambling to above 11k elevation along the north side of the arete that juts eastward from the north arete of Matterhorn Peak. Once things became greater than very mild class 3, we backtracked some, including some glissading, and traversed to below the base of the east couloir before traversing the talus slopes to Horse Creek Pass. After summitting, we headed down the Horse Creek Trail to Mono Village. The extra scrambling early on the way up made for a very long day, but the extra sights seen were worthwhile. | |
| Posted Aug 5, 2012 4:44 pm | ||
| bedellympian | nice Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2012 | |
| sub 4 hours from car to summit. probably my favorite area in the sierras. great views. | |
| Posted Jul 8, 2012 11:18 pm | ||
| Travissmith2251 | Matterhorn rocks | |
| favorite mountain so far | |
| Posted Jun 22, 2012 7:12 pm | ||
| sardude | Did it. Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2006 | |
| I don't remember when!?!? First time from Mono Villege NE chute slow & sandy w/ Dave G. & Judy R.. 2nd time North Arete 5.7ish w/ Paul D. | |
| Posted Jan 13, 2012 1:30 am | ||
| Polarsun1 | First Ascent Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2011 | |
| Bob Shonerd and I put up a new route (Direct North Face, 5.7+) this season which avoids the looser lower sections of the North Arete. We established 55 - 60m rappels at every belay and were down in minutes. Excellent climbing! | |
| Posted Dec 22, 2011 9:14 pm | ||
| LincolnB | 1987 Date Climbed: Jul 8, 1987 | |
| On a backpack trip with sister Gwen, brother Jon and a friend | |
| Posted Dec 6, 2011 9:14 pm | ||
| Kathryn | 9800 | |
| Started at Mono Village and hiked up with JN, JP and Joel. I stayed at the lake around 9800ft as they attempted to summit the peak. The descent took us about 2 hours the same evening. Nice long day hike with spectacular views. | ||
| Posted Dec 1, 2011 1:24 am | ||
| bedellympian | Early Snow Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2011 | |
| I wanted to bag a last fall peak before heading up to the NW on a road trip. Had a freak snow storm in the Sierras a couple days before but decided to try the Matterhorn anyway because of easy access from Twin Lakes. It was a beautiful sunny day. Got only up to about 8500' and was post-holing through to my waist. Guess I'll have to try another time. | |
| Posted Oct 11, 2011 3:46 pm | ||
| aran | Snow, sleet, hail- "0% chance of percipitation" on North Arete Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2011 | |
| Great trip- watched summer turn to fall turn to early winter over night. The snow field has retreated off the gully so access without crampons wasn't so bad. Beautiful summit, though snowing when we got there! Turned to rain as we descended all the way back to Twin Lakes. Excellent weekend. | |
| Posted Oct 1, 2011 8:42 pm | ||
| Drewid | SE Slog Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2011 | |
| A beautiful day hike up the Horse Creek drainage to the pass and on up but lord what a scree slog for the last mile or so. Round trip 12 hours. Plan to traverse the Sawtooth Crest next so this hike was good recon. Great summit perch and killer steep view back down toward Twin Lakes and out to the east. | |
| Posted Sep 8, 2011 4:55 pm | ||
| atavist | North Arete, approximately Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2011 | |
| Day climb from Twin Lakes. Without any more beta than is implied in the name of the route, I tried to stick to the arete and keep technical climbing difficulties less than 5.7. Though at the beginning I started off left of center. As pointed out by most other ascensionists, there is a lot of loose rock down low but it gets much more solid up high. | |
| Posted Sep 6, 2011 1:06 pm | ||
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