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SimkinNortheast face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2016


From Meysan lake via Northeast face. Descended West ridge.

Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNDGTjf_y2I
Posted Oct 5, 2016 6:33 pm

RomainNW Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2015


Last stop on a traverse from Mount Irvine and Mount Mallory. Short gully climb past a 4th class "waterfall" pitch. Good summit views, but we got snowed on on the summit so we did not linger. The descent back to Meysan Lake was a real pain (must be worse going up!).
Posted Sep 1, 2015 2:11 am

DebNW Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2014


Relatively easy dayhike with some tense moments descending loose chute. Waterfall pitch was fun, rapped down for safety. Gail force winds in the chute made the chute rather uncomfortable but great climbing.
Posted Oct 25, 2014 10:39 am

BobD33   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009


The waterfall pitch was my first experience with class 4. Really tough. Going solo, got wedged in the crack. It took 2 attempts to surpass and it was not easy.
Have climbed it twice since. Used a light rope to rappel the waterfall pitch. Same route. Was hoping to traverse further to Corcoran. Failed on both attempts.
One of the worst approaches I've ever been on. (From upper Meysan Lake). Still, a most noteworthy summit to attain.
Posted Mar 15, 2014 8:49 pm

DonnoNW Cute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2004


Chris stopped at the "waterfall pitch"
Posted Aug 11, 2013 10:02 pm

Vic Hanson#3  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2012

Vic Hanson

We hiked up the Meysan Lakes Trail and camped the 1st night on a saddle above the lake on the ridge up to Irvine. Then we traversed over to Mallory and LeConte before going down a gully and camping below Pickering. The next day we climbed Pickering, Joe Devel and Chamberlin and then down to Crabtree Lakes. The following day we went from Crabtree to the JMT and and climbed up Discovery Pinnacle before going down the Whitney Trail.
Posted Oct 21, 2012 1:28 am

mrchad9NW Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012


Nice climb and view and liked the traverse to Corcoran even more.
Posted Oct 1, 2012 5:26 pm

soslawNW Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2012


Waterfall pitch wasn't too difficult on the ascent. Challenging on the descent if you don't use the sling.
Posted Sep 29, 2012 11:18 pm

Bill562From Meysan Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 30, 2011


With Oleg R via NW chute. Challenging new late fall/early winter type snow.
Posted Oct 31, 2011 11:23 am

Daria+  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008


Nice peak, and even nicer summit
Posted Aug 15, 2010 9:13 pm

becquerelNW Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010


As SJ wrote, scrambling in loose rock was not so much fun, but the other parts on the solid rock are beautiful. Didn't have any problems in the famous Waterfall pitch, it's little tricky on the way down, but the holds and steps are pretty good.
Posted Aug 2, 2010 10:46 pm

SJUno  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010


Scramble up to the summit plateau sucked, a lot of loose rock, but the climbing was great once we got to the solid stuff. Took the NW Chute.
Posted Aug 1, 2010 1:01 pm

Climber DaveNorthwest chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009

Climber Dave

Climbed via the northwest chute, Good snow leading up to the LeConte/Mallory plateau, and loose rock and snow in the actual chute. All in all a really fun climb!!
Posted Sep 1, 2009 12:40 pm

cabNW Chute from Meysan Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2009


Left O.C. at 1am, started hiking at 5am. Probably the most miserable scree slog I have ever done above Meysan Lake. Waterfall pitch was a little hairy, especially since I was by myself, but I made it. Went over to Mallory too, and back to the car at 4pm, then drove 4 hours home. Long day! Love climbing peaks like this one that don't get much traffic. No one had signed the summit register for 2.5 weeks before I did.
Posted Aug 31, 2009 3:25 pm

derbillyChallenge day 10  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2009


After getting past the crumbling gully above Meysan Lake, it was a nice climb to LeConte and over to Corcoran. I was aided by a generous cheater sling on the waterfall pitch, which is certainly class 4+ in my estimation. Overall, I was worn out from the previous 10 days of climbing and had to skip Mallory.
Posted Aug 22, 2009 4:10 pm

Shirley Lamup North face, down SW chute   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009

Shirley Lam

Climbed with bighornmonkey and Miki...who did awesome on her first technical climb at altitude!
Posted Aug 18, 2009 3:52 pm

boyblueNortheast Face  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 4, 1987


With Dave McLaughlin via North Fork of Tuttle Creek. Very unpleasant approach. Lots of bush-whacking, but a faint use trail can be followed if you are *very* observant. Expected water at our base camp at 9000 feet, but Tuttle was dry (subterranean). Had to descend back to a small spring at approx. 8000 feet to fill water bottles. Tuttle re-appears at approx. 11000 feet. The 2000 foot scree chute that leads to base of north face nearly killed us. The class 3 climbing on the peak, though, was fun and challenging.
Posted Aug 12, 2009 11:46 pm

bighornmonkeyup North face, down SW chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009


Fun route, cold day.
Posted Aug 10, 2009 10:42 am

seanoNW chute from Meysan lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2009


Quite the talus slog above Meysan lake. The waterfall pitch was shorter than expected. Start of a Le Conte-Corcoran-Mallory-Irvine traverse.
Posted Aug 7, 2009 8:43 pm

GuiltyNorthwest Chute  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2008


Solo traverse from Malory, Irvine, and Candlelight. Descending the waterfall pitch was thrilling.
Posted Aug 28, 2008 2:25 am

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