Mount Thompson

Overview

For ice climbers, all the couloirs are easily accessible from the South Lake trailhead (9,820') used for Bishop Pass. Downclimbing the Harrington Couloir seems to be the fastest way down for these. Although the Thompson Ridge is rated at class 3, it is a fairly long hike out. Attempting to descend the Thompson Ridge faster has led to rappel epics in the past. The Smrz Couloir is named after SP's own Alois Smrz.

Peakbaggers and ski mountaineers have combined trips to Mount Thompson with Point Powell or Mount Powell (different peaks). Starting from the trailhead at Lake Sabrina (9,080') one heads south towards Sunset Lake (11,464'). Climb up to the Thompson-Powell col and ascend the class 2 SW Face or class 3 West Ridge.

The high point of the Thompson Ridge is also known as "Ski Mountaineers Peak" after the Sierra Club's Ski Mountaineers Section. Those that disapprove of the Ski Mountaineers Section, usually for petty differences, refer to the summit as "Motocross Peak."

Routes Overview & Map List

Routes Overview Route Name Difficulty Event Date Party Thompson Ridge Class 3 FA Sept 1959 Henry Mandolf, Charles Bell, & Stuart Ferguson Moynier Couloir III, AI3 or WI4, 5.5 FA Aug 1986 John Moynier Harrington Couloir III, AI2 or WI3 FA Early 1980s Bob Harrington Smrz Couloir III, AI3 or WI3, 5.6 FA Aug 1990 John Moynier & Scott Andrews Knudtson Couloir III, AI3 or WI3 FA Sept 16, 1984 Bruce Knudtson & Larry Cobb Southeast Face Class 3-4 FD Sept 16, 1984 Larry Cobb & Bruce Knudtson Southwest Face Class 2 FA Aug 14, 1939 Jack Sturgeon West Ridge Class 3 Northwest Face Class 3 FA June 30, 1931 Norman Clyde

Map List Map Name Publisher Scale Interval Plastic Lat/Long UTM Mount Thompson USGS 1:24,000 ? N ? ? Bishop Pass: North Lake-South Lake,    Evolution Valley Trail Map Tom Harrison Maps 1:47,520 80 ft Y Y Y Kings Canyon High Country Trail Map Tom Harrison Maps 1:63,360 80 ft Y Y Y Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks    Recreation Map Tom Harrison Maps 1:125,000 200 ft Y Y Y

Getting There

SOUTH LAKE: From Bishop, also take CA SR 168, however look for the turn off for South Lake. The road will end at the trailhead. From here take the trail south towards Trasure Lakes departing the trail and heading west over Gilbert's NE Ridge and into the Gilbert-Thompson basin from where you can climb any of the 5 alpine ice couloirs on the two peaks.

Red Tape

WILDERNESS PERMIT (MANDATORY for overnight trips in JMW): A free wilderness permit is required if you are going to spend the night in the John Muir Wilderness. Furthermore, there is a permit quota from May 1 to November 1. From Nov 2 to April 30, a self-issued permit is available at Inyo NF Ranger Stations and Visitor Centers. During the quota period 60% of permits are available for reservation ($5 fee) with the balancing being available for walk-ins starting at 11am the prior day.

BEAR CANISTERS (Ref: steeleman): "Bear canisters were not mandatory for our trip up the sabrina basin in June 2003. We camped at Sunset Lake. I was told that they were recommended, but not required. However, I was told that if I did not have a cannister, I had to counterbalance my food. Easier said than done, since Sunset Lake has no trees :-)"

For more information on the red tape, contact the Inyo NF:

Inyo National Forest
873 North Main Street
Bishop, CA 93514

TEL: 760.873.2400
TTY: 760.873.2538
WEB: http://www.fs.fed.us/r5/inyo/

When To Climb

Camping

Mountain Conditions

• Weather: NOAA National Weather Service: Owens Valley
• Weather: Weather.com: Bishop, CA
• Inyo NF: See Red Tape Section above

Message Board Threads

• Thompson Couloirs

External Links

• Moynier Couloir - October 1, 2002 - Michael Gordon & Alois Smrz
  
  

Images

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