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Pala di Punta Ellie
Mountain/Rock

Pala di Punta Ellie

 
Pala di Punta Ellie

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.58240°N / 12.28160°E

Object Title: Pala di Punta Ellie

County: Veneto

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8399 ft / 2560 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Nov 20, 2011 / Mar 28, 2014

Object ID: 761116

Hits: 1677 

Page Score: 83.69%  - 17 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Cadini di Misurina Group > Pala di Punta Ellie




Pala di Punta Ellie m. 2560

In the central part of Cadini di Misurina Group, a peculiar range built by an endless number of slender towers, needles, pinnacles, huge sharp flakes of "dolomia", the not very gaudy but fine Pala di Punta Ellie with its shady North-East face really offers a very satisfactory climb on extra quality rock. The towers belongs to the Subgroup Cadin dei Tocci and it's located just in front of Torre Wundt and dominates the Vallone dei Tocci and Fonda Savio Hut. Amongst the routes running on the peak, the classic one is "Mazzorana", realized in 1942 by the guide Piero Mazzorana with Renata Scaramuzza.

First ascent of the tower: Junk, Kann and Schonlanck 23-8-1911.



Pala di Punta Ellie North-East FacePala di Punta Ellie NE Face (on the right)
Fall
Fall dresses the larchs in Vallon dei Tocci

Getting There - Road Access

The best starting point is Misurina mt.1752, a small village situated on the shore of the lake with the same name. From Bolzano follow Brennero Highway, exit to Bressanone and then follow Pusteria Valley reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Landro Valley, reaching Carbonin mt. 1432 and Misurina. From Misurina mt. 1752, the main village in this area, follow the road towards Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Auronzo Hut. After the road to Monte Piana - starting on the left-hand side of the main road - and before reaching the small bucolic Antorno Lake, turn to right to an unpaved road entering a wood and leading after a few kilometers to Pian degli Spiriti (Spirits’ Plane) mt. 1880. Parking.


Sunset on Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces from Antorno LakeLago Antorno and the South side of Lavaredo
A fleeting shade over Torre Wundt
A fleeting shade over Torre Wundt

Getting There - Walking access

 
Cadini di Misurina
Approach on Cadin dei Tocci


From Pian degli Spiriti follow the good path to Fonda Savio Hut (n. 115, marked), rising along Cadin dei Tocci with several hairpins and reaching the edge of a wide vegetated and gravelly basin. (half an hour from the parking). From here a fine view on several towers and needles is just appearing; Pala di Punta Ellie is situated on your right-hand side (going up), showing a narrow black and yellow face. Carry on along the path for a few meters, then leave the main path following on the right a not very obvious trail, rising between grass and gravel to reach a gravelly gully descending from Forcella del Diavolo (Devil’s Saddle). Before reaching the characteristic and tall tower named Paracarro, head to right rising to the route’s starting point.
It’s convenient to climb the route directly from Pian degli Spiriti, but another way is spending the night to Fonda Savio Hut:

-Fratelli Fonda Savio Hut mt. 2367 (CAI – Club Alpino Italiano Sez. XXX Ottobre - Trieste) Beds 43 – Phone +39-0435-39036 open from june 20 from september 20. Link to RIFUGIO FONDA SAVIO

To reach the hut carry on along the main path for another half an hour (in all 1 hour from Pian degli Spiriti). The day after it’s possible to reach Pala di Punta Ellie in half an hour from the hut following Bonacossa Path.

Mazzorana route report

Mazzorana Route

Summit Altitude: mt. 2560
D inf., max UIAA V
Climbing length: 180 mt., 200 mt. dev.
Exposure: NE
First ascent: Piero Mazzorana and Renata Scaramuzza 7-8-1942
Starting point: Road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Misurina)

A fine satisfactory route and a very pleasant climb with amazing views on Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces; dolomia’s quality is extraordinarily good. All the belays are equipped. Quick protections are available.

Pala di Punta Ellie Mazzorana Route
Pala di Punta Ellie Mazzorana Route beta
Climbing Mazzorana Route - Pala di Punta Ellie
On Mazzorana route



Mazzorana Route report - UIAA scale

P1 – Climb a slanting ramp with a crack towards right, reaching a second ramp slanting in the opposite side. Follow a black crack, then some easy steps slants to left. Belay below a black slab. III, III+, 30 mt.
P2 – Climb the slab slants to right, then reach a pleasant ramp and climb it. Comfortable belay. IV, III, 25 mt.
P3 – Slants to left climb a magnificent crack - excellent possibility to use quick protections – reaching easier rocks below a chimney-Crack. Climb the slab on the left-hand side of the chimney, then go slants towards left to a comfortable stance. IV, 30 mt.

Marmagna summit cross
Steep wall
On the trail to Lago Verde
Scrambling down the summit


P4 – A very long pitch, in case divisible by two. Traverse right, reaching a chimney crack. Follow the whole chimney-crack with very pleasant climb, cross a gully and then reach an edge overlooking a scree- gully. Climb the edge towards left, reaching a belay under a steep black wall. III, IV, 55 mt.
P5 – Climb straightly the short black wall overlooking the stance (crux), reaching a small ledge. Climb slants towards right some black easier rocks, leqding to another easier black wall; climb it reaching a good belay. V. IV, 20 mt.
P6 – Up towards right along a gully leading to a small stance below the magnificent and carved ending wall leading to the top. III+, 35 mt.

Descent: attention is required while scrambling down from the summit to reach the lower abseils-anchors. From the summit heads to NW scrambling down some steep gullies and short rocky-steps, reaching a small saddle with a characteristic yellow pinnacle NW from the top. Don’t head towards North - even if the ground seems easier – but skirt the yellow pinnacle on the left (cairn) reaching an easy grassy ridge. Follow it to a grassy saddle, then head to North-East (towards Fonda Savio Hut), follow a slanting ledge, then descending along some rock-steps leading to a grassy terrace on a steep face. Head to right towards a gully – cairn – finding the first equipped abseil. Two abseils (20 mt., then 30 mt.) are leading to the base close to the starting point.

Other routes

Lavaredo South Faces seen from Pala di Punta Ellie
Lavaredo South Faces seen from Pala di Punta Ellie
Fonda Savio Hut seen from Pala di Punta Ellie North Face
Rif. Fonda Savio and Croda dei Toni from the route
Friends of the summits
A "friend" on the summit


Other Routes:

- ENE RIDGE D inf., max UIAA V, 200 mt.
First ascent: Mazzorana-Rossi-Scaramuzza 1942

- GREAT NORTH CHIMNEY AD, max UIAA III+, 180 mt.
First ascent: Mazzorana – Bò 1946

- WEST CRACK AD inf., max UIAA IV, 200 mt.
First ascent: Mazzorana – Cumino 1949

Red tape

No particular restrictions in climbing or hiking, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE list and requires the best care and respect from its visitors.



When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to middle September.

Meteo

DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Pala di Punta Ellie map
 

- Guidebooks

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Ed. IDEA MONTAGNA
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Athesia Editore
“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte II by Antonio Berti – Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

- Maps

Map: Tabacco n. 010 – Dolomiti di Sesto 1:25.000


External Links

RIFUGIO FONDA-SAVIO

Images