Pala di Punta Ellie m. 2560
In the central part of Cadini di Misurina Group, Subgroup Ramo dei Tocci, rising in front of Torre Wundt and overlooking Vallone dei Tocci and Fonda Savio Hut, the not very gaudy Pala di Punta Ellie with its shady North-East face really offers a very satisfactory climb on extra quality “dolomia”. The route was realized in 1942 by the guide Piero Mazzorana with Renata Scaramuzza.
First ascent of the tower: Junk, Kann and Schonlanck 23-8-1911.
Getting There - Road AccessThe best starting point is Misurina mt.1752, a small village situated on the shore of the lake with the same name. From Bolzano follow Brennero Highway, exit to Bressanone and then follow Pusteria Valley reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Landro Valley, reaching Carbonin mt. 1432 and Misurina. From Misurina mt. 1752, the main village in this area, follow the road towards Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Auronzo Hut. After the road to Monte Piana - starting on the left-hand side of the main road - and before reaching the small bucolic Antorno Lake, turn to right to an unpaved road entering a wood and leading after a few kilometers to Pian degli Spiriti (Spirits’ Plane) mt. 1880. Parking.
Getting There - Walking access
From Pian degli Spiriti follow the good path to Fonda Savio Hut (n. 115, marked), rising along Cadin dei Tocci with several hairpins and reaching the edge of a wide vegetated and gravelly basin. (half an hour from the parking). From here a fine view on several towers and needles is just appearing; Pala di Punta Ellie is situated on your right-hand side (going up), showing a narrow black and yellow face. Carry on along the path for a few meters, then leave the main path following on the right a not very obvious trail, rising between grass and gravel to reach a gravelly gully descending from Forcella del Diavolo (Devil’s Saddle). Before reaching the characteristic and tall tower named Paracarro, head to right rising to the route’s starting point.
It’s convenient to climb the route directly from Pian degli Spiriti, but another way is spending the night to Fonda Savio Hut:
-Fratelli Fonda Savio Hut mt. 2367 (CAI – Club Alpino Italiano Sez. XXX Ottobre - Trieste) Beds 43 – Phone +39-0435-39036 open from june 20 from september 20. Link to RIFUGIO FONDA SAVIO
To reach the hut carry on along the main path for another half an hour (in all 1 hour from Pian degli Spiriti). The day after it’s possible to reach Pala di Punta Ellie in half an hour from the hut following Bonacossa Path.
Mazzorana route report
MAZZORANA ROUTE REPORT
Summit Altitude: mt. 2560
D inf., max UIAA V
Climbing length: 180 mt., 200 mt. dev.
First ascent: Piero Mazzorana and Renata Scaramuzza 7-8-1942
Starting point: Road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Misurina)
A fine satisfactory route and a very pleasant climb with amazing views on Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces; dolomia’s quality is extraordinarily good. All the belays are equipped. Quick protections are available.
P1 – Climb a slanting ramp with a crack towards right, reaching a second ramp slanting in the opposite side. Follow a black crack, then some easy steps slants to left. Belay below a black slab. III, III+, 30 mt.
P2 – Climb the slab slants to right, then reach a pleasant ramp and climb it. Comfortable belay. IV, III, 25 mt.
P3 – Slants to left climb a magnificent crack - excellent possibility to use quick protections – reaching easier rocks below a chimney-Crack. Climb the slab on the left-hand side of the chimney, then go slants towards left to a comfortable stance. IV, 30 mt.
P4 – A very long pitch, in case divisible by two. Traverse right, reaching a chimney crack. Follow the whole
chimney-crack with very pleasant climb, cross a gully and then reach an edge overlooking a gravelly gully. Climb the edge towards left, reaching a belay under a steep black wall. III, IV, 55 mt.
P5 – Climb straightly the short black wall overlooking the stance (crux), reaching a small ledge. Climb slants towards right some black easier rocks, leqding to another easier black wall; climb it reaching a good belay. V. IV, 20 mt.
P6 – Up towards right along a gully leading to a small stance below the magnificent and carved ending wall leading to the top. III+, 35 mt.
Descent: some attentions are required while scramble down from the summit to reach the lower abseils. From the summit heads to NW climbing some steep gullies and short steps, reaching a small saddle with a characteristic yellow pinnacle NW from the top. Don’t head towards North - even if the ground seems easier – but skirt the yellow pinnacle on the left (cairn) reaching an easy grassy ridge. Follow it to a grassy saddle, then head to North-East (towards Fonda Savio Hut), follow a slanting ledge, then descending along some rocks leading to a grassy terrace on a steep face. Head to right towards a gully – cairn – finding the first equipped abseil. Two abseils (20 mt., then 30 mt.) are leading to the base close to the starting point.
- ENE RIDGE D inf., max UIAA V, 200 mt.
First ascent: Mazzorana-Rossi-Scaramuzza 1942
- GREAT NORTH CHIMNEY AD, max UIAA III+, 180 mt.
First ascent: Mazzorana – Bò 1946
- WEST CRACK AD inf., max UIAA IV, 200 mt.
First ascent: Mazzorana – Cumino 1949
Red tapeNo particular restrictions in climbing or hiking, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE list and requires the best care and respect from its visitors.
When to climb
Best season goes from middle June to middle September.
DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail [email protected]
Guidebooks and maps
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Athesia Editore
“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte II by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI
Map: Tabacco n. 010 – Dolomiti di Sesto 1:25.000