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Cadini di Misurina
Area/Range

Cadini di Misurina

 
Cadini di Misurina

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.57110°N / 12.28130°E

Object Title: Cadini di Misurina

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9314 ft / 2839 m

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub, gabriele

Created/Edited: Nov 6, 2004 / Nov 18, 2009

Object ID: 153301

Hits: 19788 

Page Score: 91.45%  - 35 Votes 

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Overview

 
Cadini south-eastern view
The Cadini di Misurina seen from the south

East of Cortina d'Ampezzo, east of Cristallo-Popena group, between the Sorapiss (S) and the Lavaredo (N), this fine group, full of pinnacles and passes, fantastic for hiking (less for climbing) , is named after the basins surrounding the sharp edges that rise from fine meadows and woods on the outside and from big "ghiaioni" (scree slopes) on the inside.

Its borders are :
South : the Ansiei valley (Auronzo di Cadore)
West : the Misurina lake
North : the Lavaredo group
East : the Val Marzòn (ending with the Vallone di Lavaredo)

You can hike almost everywhere in the basins (cadini) , passes are normally not difficult, careful in case of snow or iced snow,
at the beginning of the season an iceaxe could be useful.
Better carry in the backpack a hiking rope (ferrata's gear is almost useless)
Climbing routes are not long (normally 150-300 m) and the rock is not always fine.

This group is complex, so the only way to understand how to move here is using a good map and studying well the hike before starting.

Cadini are made of these Subgroups : (here named Rami = branches)
 
schematical map of the basins...
schematic map
  • Ramo di Misurina
  • Ramo della Neve
  • Ramo di San Lucano
  • Ramo di Croda Liscia
  • Ramo del Nevaio
  • Ramo del Diavolo
  • Ramo dei Tocci
  • Ramo del Rimbianco
  • Ramo di Campoduro
  •  
    a view from near Rif. Lavaredo
    labeled pic

    Getting There

    Cadini di Misurina as seen from Monte de le Cianpedele

    Many different ways to get here :
    From Veneto
    • Take motorway A27 from Venezia (Venice) to Ponte nelle Alpi
    • Take SS51 (Alemagna) to Cortina d'Ampezzo
    • Take SR48 across Passo Tre Croci
    • Turn left on SP49 to Misurina Lake
    • Park near the cable-car at the southern end of the lake or take the toll road to Rif. Auronzo from the northern end


    From Südtirol / Alto Adige
    • Take Brenner motorway A22 to Bressanone (Brixen)
    • Take SS49 through Val Pusteria (Pustertal) until you reach Dobbiaco (Toblach)
    • Turn south onto SS51 to Cortina d'Ampezzo.
    • At Carbonin (Schluderbach) turn left onto SS48bis to Misurina.


    From Trentino
    • Take Brenner motorway A22 to Trento
    • Take SS621 or SP71 into Val di Fassa
    • Take SS48 across Passo Pordoi to Arabba
    • Stay on SS48 and drive across Passo Falzarego to Cortina
    • Take SR48 across Passo Tre Croci
    • Turn left on SP49 to Misurina Lake


    Moving in Cortina basin can be a gamble ... a lot of traffic but :
    wherever you are in Cortina bus services allow you to get the Tre Croci Pass with a regular, cheap and comfortable summer and winter service.

    here from you can get the seasonaly updated pdf (acrobat) files

    simple comparison table of difficulties

    UIAAFrenchUSA
    F2
    PD3 - 4
    3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
    4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
    5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
    6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
    EX5.11a - 5.11b
    Note - the Difficulty of the Routes below are in UIAA degrees

    Ramo di Misurina

    Cima Cadin de Misurina, Cima Cadin della Neve, Cime Cadin di Maraia
    Cima Cadin de Misurina, Cima Cadin della Neve, Cime Cadin di Maraia

    The westernmost subgroup
    Between the Misurina slopes (W) and the Cadin della Neve (E)
    this is the subgroup with the most comfortable access, using the chair lift to Col de Varda (refuge)

    Main summits (from S to N)
  • Punta del Col di Varda 2504 m
    main routes :
    - NW wall - Comici - 200m - 3° (1 pitch 5°) - amusing
    - NW wall - Quinz - 5° inf
    - S wall - Mazzorana - 180m - 4°
    - N edge - 4°
  • Cima Cadin di Misurina 2674 m
    main routes :
    - West wall - Eötvös - 350m - 3°
    - West wall - Angelini - 350m - 2°
    - West wall - Mazzorana - 350m - 4°
    - N ridge - descent route - 2°
  • Cima Cadin del Lago 2575 m
    main routes :
    - East wall - Mazzorana - 4°
    - East wall - crack - 3°
    - West wall - Mazzorana - 4° (1 pitch 5°)
    Minor summits
  • Pilastro di Misurina
  • Gusela de la Neve
  • Punta Claudio
  • Coston S.Angelo
  • Piz S.Angelo
  • Punta Giordana
  • Torre Misurina
  • Castello degli Angeli

    all these summits, even the minor ones have fine middle difficulty routes
    Forcella di Misurina
    Forcella di Misurina

    North of Gusela de la Neve (a fine pinnacle on the northern branch of the ridge) the
    "Forcella di Misurina", crossed by the sentiero Bonacossa, a fine "ferrata"

    Ramo della Neve

    Cime Cadin de Maraia, Cima Cadin della Neve, Cima Cadin di Misurina
    Cime Cadin de Maraia, Cima Cadin della Neve, Cima Cadin di Misurina

    The southernmost subgroup
    Between the Grave di Pogoffa (S) and the Cadin della Neve (N)
    just behind the previous subgroup when coming from Col de Varda

    Main summits
  • Cima Cadin della Neve 2757 m
    main routes :
    - from Forcella di Pogoffa along the ridge (Innerkofler) - 2°
    - from Forcella di Pogoffa west wall - 2°
    - from Grave di Pogoffa (South) - CApuis-Angelini - 3°-4°
  • Campanile and Cima Antonio Giovanni 2714 m
    main routes :
    - NW wall to Campanile - Mazzorana - 4°
    - NE wall to Campanile - Quinz - 4°sup
    - NE side - Baldi - 280m 4°
    from campanile an easy climb leads to the Cima
    Minor summits
  • Cime di Maraia 3 summits
  • Sperone di Pogoffa
  • Campanile di Pogotta
    all these summits, have middle difficulty routes

    Ramo di San Lucano

    Cima Cadin di Nord-Ovest, Cima Eötvös, Cima Cadin di San Lucano
    Cima Cadin di Nord-Ovest, Cima Eötvös, Cima Cadin di San Lucano

    Between the Cadino del Nevaio (NW) and the Pian di Mussa (SE)
    Accesses from Rifugio Fonda Savio and from Rifugio Città di Carpi
    This is the most important branch and here the higher summits of the group and some of the best climbing routes of the group
    Main summits
  • Cima Cadin Nord Est 2788 m
    - S wall - Casara - 3°
    - ferrata Merlone - (West pillar) - exposed but safe - beware of falling stones moved by hikers
    - E wall .Crepaz - 400m - 4°
  • Cima Eötvös 2825 m
    main routes :
    - SW wall - Oppel - 500m - 4°
    - N wall - Corsi - 200m - 4° inf
  • Cima Cadin di San Lucano 2839 m
    main routes :
    - N edge - Maraini - 4° (fine)
    - SE ridge - Crepaz - 500m - 4° inf
  • Campanile Dulfer 2706m
    main routes :
    - S edge - Dülfer - 270m - 5°
    - SE wall - Crepaz - 250m - 5°inf
  • Gemelli 2742 m
    main routes :
    - S edge - Castiglioni - 4°
    - E wall to S summit - Crepaz - 5°sup
    "minor" but important pinnacles :
  • Campanile Eötvös
  • Campanile Capuis
  • Campanile Verzi
  • Guglia degli Svizzeri
  • Punta Cadin delle Pere
  • Campanile di Maraia
  • Torre De Donato
  • Torre della Forcella
  • Torre Longo
  • Torre Caldart
  • Cima Cadin Deserto

    The 2 passes delimiting the branch (Forcella del Nevaio on the W side and Forcella della Torre on the E side)
    are crossed by two on the most amazing hikings trails in this area
     
    cadini misurina from forcella...
     
     
    Campanile Dülfer and Campanile Eötvös
     

    Ramo del Nevaio

    Cima Cadin di Nord-Ovest
    Cima Cadin Nord Ovest

    Between the Cadin del Nevaio and Cadin dei Tocci, divided from S.Lucano by the Forcella (pass) del Nevaio and
    from Ramo del Diavolo by the Forcella (pass) del Diavolo
    Accesses from Rifugio Fonda Savio and from Rifugio Città di Carpi

    Main summits
  • Cima Cadin Nord Ovest 2726 m
  • Cima Cadin del Nevaio 2680 m
    the 2 northern summits : Pianoro dei Tocci 2675 m and Castello Incantato
    make, together,a fine wall with some fine routes easy or very hard and quickly accessed from Rifugio Fonda Savio

    Ramo di Croda Liscia

    Cimon de Croda Liscia, Torre Siorpaes above Cadin Deserto

    The easternmost subgroup, east of Ramo di San Lucano,
    Between the Cadin Deserto (S) and the Val Campedelle (N)
    Divided from Ramo di San Lucano by the Forcella della Torre
    access from Rifugio Città di Carpi

    Main summits
  • Cimon di Croda Liscia 2568 m
  • Torre Siorpaes 2556 m - one of the most characteristic summits here
    main routes :
    - N edge - Castiglioni - up to 5°
    - NW wall - Comici - 250m - 3° sup
    - S wall - Crepaz - 300 - 4° inf - the finest

    Ramo del Diavolo

    Forcella del Diavolo (on the...
    Forcella di Diavolo

    Due to the hiking importance of the Forcella del Diavolo this is considered as a subgroup and not a part of Ramo del Nevaio
    accesses from Rifugio Fonda Savio and from Rifugio Città di Carpi

    This branch is the most known for its wonderful triptic of pinnacles :
    Torre Leo - Torre del Diavolo and il Gobbo
    and here you can find the most difficult and spectacular climbs of the whole group
    Main summits
  • Punta Ellie 2600 m
  • Cima dei Camosci
  • Cima d'Antorno
     
    Looking towards Cristallo di Misurina
     
     
    Torre Leo (in foreground but...
     
     
    Resting beneath Torre di Diavolo
     

    Ramo dei Tocci

    Cime Cadin dei Tocci
    Cime Cadin dei Tocci

    Between the Cadin dei Tocci (SW) and Cadin di Rinbianco (NE), this subgroup is to be considered as the central subgroup (and the most frequented)
    Access from Rifugio Fonda Savio
    Looking out from Forcella della Torre
    Looking out from Forcella della Torre

    Here the most climbed summit of the whole group :
  • Torre Wundt 2517 m : a lot of routes here, the best are the Mazzorana on the S wall and its variant Crepaz (200m 4°)
    other important summit is the
  • Cima Cadin dei Tocci (twin summit)

    Ramo del Rimbianco

    Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime behind Cima Cadin de Rinbianco and Monte Cianpedele

    Between the Cadin di Rinbianco (W), the Val Campedelle (S) and the Vallone di Lavaredo (NE) this is the most hikeable subgroup, it allows the best access (on foot) to Rifugio Auronzo.

    This is the branch with the most panoramic (and easy) hiking area of the group, containing the final section of the sentiero Bonacossa

    Main summits
  • Cima Cadin de le Bisse 2356 m
  • Cima Cadin di Rinbianco 2402 m
     
    Cima Cadin de Rinbianco
     
     
    Heading ledgeways towards Monte de le Cianpedele
     
     
    Sentiero Attrezzato Alberto Bonacossa
     

    Ramo di Campoduro

    Croda di di Campoduro
    Croda di Campoduro in front of the Marmarole Group

    The ending ridge toward SE, good panoramic point, almost without climbing and hiking interest
    the only summit worth to be pointed out is the
    Croda di Campoduro 2244 m

    Accomodations

    Rifugio Fonda Savio
    Rifugio Fonda Savio

    Rifugio Fonda Savio (2359 m) (tel 0435 39036)
    fastest access from the road to Rif. Auronzo, some hundred meters after the fork to Monte Piana follow a small road (115)
    till Pian degli Spiriti (~1900 m - car parking possibilities)
    - a comfortable walk on good path takes you in less than 2 hours to the refuge

    Capanna Col di Varda (2115 m) (tel 0435 39041)
    Starting point is at the southern limit of Misurina Lake :
    - using chair lift in few minutes directly to the refuge
    - on foot, along the ski run, in about 1 hour

    Rifugio Città di Carpi (2110m) (tel 0435 39139)
    from capanna Col di Varda with a panoramic fine walk on a fine path in less than 2 hours (photo shot stops included)

    When to Hike and Climb

    summer : late june -september

    Maps and Books

    strongly recommended here !!!
    Tabacco 1:25.000 - sheet 03 - Cortina D'Ampezzo e Dolomiti Ampezzane : complete and absolutey the best !
    Kompass 1:50.000 - sheet 55 - Cortina d'Ampezzo - easy use

    Best book here (the most complete) is the CAI-TCI Guida dei Monti d'Italia - Dolomiti Orientali II
    - in Italian and perhaps not so easy to use,
    but containing a lot of info about all : paths, hiking, climbs, history ... not so fine for ferratas

    Weather

    Seasonal mix up
    Typical August conditions in the Cadini :-)

    I've spent here, in different years, 3 climbing days and 3 hiking days (with my family) and, maybe I've been unlucky but ... they were all raining days :(

    External Links

    Additions and Corrections

    [ Post an Addition or Correction ]
    Viewing: 1-1 of 1    
    DANixClassic Dolomite Climbs Campanile Dulfer Route Errors

    Hasn't voted

    It is almost certain that the authors of Classic Dolomite Climbs, Kohler and Memmel, have not climbed the East Rib of the Campanile Dulfer. Their topo and route description contains several errors: the second pitch is 25m, a III, and should end after the minor down climb; the last pitch is the mental crux and is poorly protected. In between the two, the route can go most anywhere, just aim for the lunch ledge at the base of the tower proper and run full-length pitches. We found no fixed anchors. What is most distressing, and the reason why I am writing, is the egregious errors in the descent description. One cannot down climb from the top of the tower to the 10m rap station. 60-70m twin ropes are needed to bypass the 10m rap station and should be used, otherwise take a bolt kit since the 10m is a horror, two flexing rusty pitons (surely Dulfer vintage) with no way to back up the anchor. These are close to pulling and will kill everyone attached to the anchor. Once down in the bowels of the chimney, use the second double piton anchor and the third to rappel down to the obvious pedestal. The notch anchor doesn’t exist. Climb up the pedestal and descent the step gully to it’s end where begins a series of 10-40m rappels that eventually take one back to the base of the climb. These anchors are OK. Kohler and Memmel’s descent description is a bit of a wonder after the pedestal. From what we could tell, a rising traverse II-III would be needed to reach anything resembling a huge chockstone in the gully. Lastly, make sure no one is descending after your party since loose rocks rain down the length of the gully near every time one pulls their ropes. Regardless of the poor topo and route description, the Dulfer route is quite spectacular.
    Posted Jul 28, 2009 6:28 pm

    Viewing: 1-1 of 1    

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