Torre Wundt m. 2517
Torre Wundt is a famous bicuspidate dolomitic tower situated inside the central part of Cadini di Misurina Group (UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE), Subgroup Ramo dei Tocci, rising South East from Cime Cadin dei Tocci and in the neighbourhood of Fratelli Fonda - Savio Hut.
First ascent of the tower: T. von Wundt with the guides M. Barbaria and G. Siorpaes 27-6-1893 from North - East Side.
Best starting point is Misurina mt. 1752, a small village situated on the shore of the lake with the same name. From Bolzano take Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow Pusteria Valley reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Landro Valley, reaching Carbonin mt. 1432 and Misurina. From Misurina mt. 1752, the main village in this area, follow the road towards Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Auronzo Hut. After the road to Monte Piana - starting on the left-hand side of the main road - and before the small bucolic Antorno Lake, follow on the right hand side an unpaved road entering a wood and leading after a few kilometers to Pian degli Spiriti mt. 1880. Parking.
WALKING ACCESS TO FONDA – SAVIO HUT
From the parking follow a very good path to Fonda Savio Hut (n. 115, marked), rising along Cadin dei Tocci with several hairpins and reaching a wide vegetated plain. A fine view on several towers and needles is appearing. After a level section the path follows the left edge of the plain, then it starts again to rise, reaching in half an hour Fonda – Savio Hut, situated in a magnificent and panoramic position on Passo dei Tocci (1 hour from Pian degli Spiriti).
Mazzorana-Del Torso, a classic
MAZZORANA-DEL TORSO ROUTE
Summit Altitude: mt. 2517
AD sup., max UIAA IV
Climbing length: 200 mt., 220 mt. dev.
First ascent: Piero Mazzorana and Sandro Del Torso 7-9-1938
Starting point: Misurina (road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo)
Hut: Fratelli Fonda – Savio Hut mt. 2367 (CAI – Club Alpino Italiano Sez. XXX Ottobre - Trieste) Beds 43 – Phone +39-0435-39036 Open from june 20 from september 20.
A very fine route and a pleasant climb; dolomia’s quality is extraordinarily good. Climbing way is mainly inner, along cracks, dihedrals and chimneys. All the belays have excellent equipment.
From Fonda – Savio Hut a track traverses left towards the tower, leading in a few minutes below the route. at the starting point of the route, below a wide chimney-crack. If you’re coming directly from Pian degli Spiriti without overnight at the hut you must leave the path five minutes before getting to the hut, following a little track on the left. Starting point of the route is situated 50 mt. left from the rocks’ lowest point, below a chimneys’ system giving which constitutes the main line of the route.
L1 – Up along the wide chimney-crack, closed in the upper part by a huge block. Climb the rocks on the right-hand side of the block, reaching a terrace, then return left inside the crack. III and III+, 35 mt.
L2 – Climb straightly the yellow crack – a bit athletic in the beginning - then an easier gully and a little wall to a comfortable stance below an open and wide dihedral-crack. IV, III, 20 mt.
L3 – Up along the crack inside the dihedral with fine climbing, then in the upper section climb the grey right face of the dihedral, reaching a good stance below a narrow chimney, widening in the upper part and ending into a cave. IV, 30 mt.
L4 – Climb the chimney-crack, narrow in the beginning. Stance inside a black cave. IV, then III, 35 mt.
L5 – Traverse left towards a steep grey wall; climb it reaching a ledge. IV, III, 35 mt.
L6 – L7 Easier rocks are leading to the top (Summit cairn and book). A spectacular view over Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces is appearing! II, 60 mt.
Descent: from the summit follow the short NW ridge towards the tower’s second top, reaching an equipped belay inside the narrow saddle between the two summits. Four abseils along the North side – when abseiling beware of scree – and some ending easy rocks lead near a saddle. Cairn. Don’t follow the couloir descending to Val Rinbianco, but traverse left skirting the base of the rocka and reaching a rocky saddle. From here reach Forcella Wundt situated in the West side of the tower. A steep couloir heading towards S leads close to the starting point.
Other RoutesSW RIDGE D, max UIAA V-, 200 mt.
First ascent: D. Valleferro and co. 1978
Another interesting route on excellent rock situated on the right of Mazzorana Route.
WEST FACE - VIA DELLA FESSURA D, max UIAA V, 200 mt.
First ascent: Piero Mazzorana and Ilde Scarpa 1938
A good route on the left of Mazzorana Route.
When to climb
Best season goes from middle June to the end of September.
DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax +39043679319 e-mail [email protected]
Guidebooks and maps
"IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Ed. IDEA MONTAGNA
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni –Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi - Athesia Editore
“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte II by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI
Map: Tabacco n. 010 – Dolomiti di Sesto 1:25.000