Torre Wundt

Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Cadini di Misurina Group > Torre Wundt

Torre Wundt 2517 m

Torre Wundt is a slender and bicuspidate tower of "dolomia" located inside the Cadini di Misurina. The Cadini di Misurina are a small mountain group belonging to the Eastern Dolomites and located in the province of Belluno, precisely in the territory of the municipality of Auronzo di Cadore, West of Auronzo, North-East of Cortina d'Ampezzo and South of Dobbiaco, in dominant situation the lake of Misurina.

Cadini are a small group made up by a multitude of pinnacles and spires located in the Northern Dolomites, between Lavaredo to the North and Sorapiss to the South. The peak, lying in the central part of Cadini, Subgroup Ramo dei Tocci, South East to Cime Cadin dei Tocci, is well known and often climbed in reason of its classic routes on excellent rock and the closeness to Rifugio Fonda - Savio.

First ascent of the tower: T. von Wundt with the guides M. Barbaria and G. Siorpaes 27-6-1893 from North - East Side.

Getting There

Road access

The starting point to climb is Misurina 1752 m, a village situated on the shore of the namesake lake.  

- coming from Bolzano:  take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the Val Pusteria reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; in Dobbiaco leave the main road and turn to the right taking the Val di Landro, drive on the road reaching Carbonin m 1432 and Misurina. From Misurina m 1752, the main village in this area, follow the road towards Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Auronzo Hut. After the road to Monte Piana - starting on the left-hand side of the main road - and before the small bucolic Lago Antorno, follow on the right hand side an unpaved road entering a wood and leading after a few kilometers to Pian degli Spiriti m. 1880. Parking.

- coming from Belluno:  via Longarone and Pieve di Cadore reach Cortina d’Ampezzo. In Cortina take the road to Passo Tre Croci and Misurina. Walking approach to Rifugio Fonda-Savio

From the parking follow a very good path to Rifugio Fonda Savio (n. 115, marked), rising along Cadin dei Tocci with several hairpins and reaching a wide vegetated plain. A fine view on several towers and needles is appearing. After a level section the path follows the left edge of the plain, then it starts again to rise, reaching in half an hour Fonda – Savio Hut, situated in a magnificent and panoramic position on Passo dei Tocci (1 hour from Pian degli Spiriti).

Mazzorana-Del Torso, a classic

Mazzorana-Del Torso route topo

Via Mazzorana - Del Torso

Summit Altitude: mt. 2517
Difficulty: AD sup., max UIAA IV
Climbing length: 200 m., 220 m. dev.
Exposure: South
First ascent: Piero Mazzorana and Sandro Del Torso 7-9-1938
Starting point: Misurina (road to Tre Cime di Lavaredo)
Hut: Rifugio Fratelli Fonda – Savio m. 2367 

A funny and fine route, well frequented; pleasant climb, due to dolomia’s quality which is extraordinarily good. Climbing way is mainly inner, along cracks, dihedrals and chimneys. All the belays have an excellent equipment.

Route report

Approach - From Fonda-Savio a trail heads leftwards to Torre Wundt, getting the wall in a few minutes, just near the starting point of the route, below a wide chimney-crack. If you’re coming directly from Pian degli Spiriti without stay overnight at the shelter you must leave the path five minutes before getting to the hut, following a little track on the left. Starting point of the route is situated 50 meters left from the lowest point of the rocks, below a chimneys’ system which marks the main line of the route.

L1 – Up along the wide chimney-crack, closed in the upper part by a huge block. Climb the rocks on the right-hand side of the block, reaching a terrace, then return left inside the crack. III and III+, 35 m
L2 – Climb straightly the yellow crack – a bit athletic in the beginning - then an easier gully and a little wall to a comfortable stance below an open and wide dihedral-crack. IV, III, 20 m

L3 – Up along the crack inside the dihedral with fine climbing, then in the upper section climb the grey right face of the dihedral, reaching a good stance below a narrow chimney, widening in the upper part and ending into a cave. IV, 30 m
L4 – Climb the chimney-crack, narrow in the beginning. Stance inside a black cave. IV, then III, 35 m.
L5 – Traverse left towards a steep grey wall; climb it reaching a ledge. IV, III, 35 m.
L6 – L7 Easier rocks are leading to the top (Summit cairn and book). A spectacular view over Tre Cime di Lavaredo South faces is appearing! II, 60 m.

Descent: from the summit follow the short NW ridge towards the tower’s second top, reaching an equipped belay inside the narrow saddle between the two summits. Four abseils along the North side – when abseiling beware of scree – and some ending easy rocks lead near a saddle. Cairn. Don’t follow the couloir descending to Val Rinbianco, but traverse left skirting the base of the rocka and reaching a rocky saddle. From here reach Forcella Wundt situated in the West side of the tower. A steep couloir heading towards S leads close to the starting point.

Other Routes

- SW Ridge D, max UIAA V-, 200 mt. First ascent: D. Valleferro and co. 1978 . An interesting route on excellent rock situated on the right of Mazzorana Route.

- West Face - Via della Fessura D, max UIAA V, 200 mt. First ascent: Piero Mazzorana and Ilde Scarpa 1938. Another good route on the left of Mazzorana Route.

Hut

Rifugio Fonda - Savio   (CAI – Club Alpino Italiano Sez. XXX Ottobre - Trieste)
Phone +39-0435-39036
Place: 43 people
Open from june 20 from september 20

When to climb

Best season goes from middle June to the end of September.

Red Tape

Genzianella (Gentiana Acaulis) a typical Eastern Alps wildflower

There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing. Torre Wundt and the entire Cadini Group are situated inside "Dolomiti Settentrionali- Northern Dolomites" area, the Northernmost and the largest of the nine mountain-systems of the Dolomites acknowledged as UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE and require the best care and respect. More info about Dolomiti Unesco World Heritage see my dedicated article here on SP: Dolomites living mountains. 

Other info:  Dolomiti Unesco

Meteo

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo
Dolomiti Meteo - Veneto

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

-Guidebooks

"IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi – Ed. IDEA MONTAGNA

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni –Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi - Athesia Editore

“Dolomiti Orientali” Vol. I Parte II by Antonio Berti – Guide dei Monti d’Italia CAI-TCI

- Maps

Tabacco n. 010 – Dolomiti di Sesto 1:25.000

External Links

Rifugio Fonda - Savio