Paul's Paradise

Approach

Turn north on Movie Flat Road from Whitney Portal Road and proceed about 1 mile to a dirt road that veers off to the left (west). This soon joins another road heading directly west towards some large rock formations. There is a small parking area near the distinct phallic formation (not Burnt Penis). Park here. Paul's Paradise is the bigger formation located next to the parking area.

Route Description

Paul's Paradise is a great introduction to the Hills and a fantastic place for moderate climbers. Routes are east-facing so it is recommended to climb them in the first part of the day if you want sun exposure. The rock is generally solid, but watch out for occasional loose flakes and exfoliations.
There are six known routes on the formation: three sport, two TRs and one trad. The two harder routes (5.9) are located right next to the parking area, across from the mentioned phallic formation. To reach the four remaining routes, follow the climbers trail for ~50 yards, skirting Paul's Paradise on its east side. For the shortest pass to the base of these routes, a couple of class 3 moves may be required.
There are anchors at the top of each route, so they can be top-roped if desired. As far as I know, there is no route that leads to the very top of Paul's Paradise, only to its shoulders.
For more detailed information about these routes, including a topo, please consult the Stassman's climbing guidebook to the area.

All routes are listed from south to north:

Sweet Pete 5.7 (in the guidebook, felt easier in person), 5 bolts. This is the easiest and most straight-forward route on Paul's Paradise. You can find it on the far left side of its east face.

De Ham Bone 5.7 (in the guidebook, felt easier in person), 5 bolts. Another casual and enjoyable route! It is located just right of Sweet Pete (few feet).

Frank (TR) 5.8. Pick your own way just right of De Ham Bone. The crux is at the start, the upper portion of the face is easier.

Frederick (TR) 5.8+. Same anchors as for Frank. The crux is getting off the ground and making several next moves.

Paul's Paradise 5.9+, 4 bolts. There is the distinct roof at the beginning of the route. It is located immediately to the left of Ted Shread. Evidently, there is a ground fall potential until you clip the second bolt. According to the guidebook, this is a high quality route. I haven't climbed that route yet.

Ted Shred 5.9, trad. This route is the closest to the parking area and easy to recognize by its continuous finger crack. Don't use abundant face holds around the crack if you want to preserve its 5.9 rating. I haven't climbed that route yet.

Essential Gear

Rope, harness, draws, TR setup, small to medium trad gear for Ted Shred

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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brutus of wyde - Dec 4, 2007 7:58 pm - Voted 10/10

North and west faces

The North Face is actually the first route you will see here, as it faces the road. 3 bolts, the first of which is "up there" but an Alien Hybrid can be placed in a seam before clipping the bolt. We felt that the North Face (rated 5.8 in the book) is actually 5.9 Haf n Haf is a crack & face climb on the NW corner, to the right of the North Face, 5.8, with one bolt protecting the face near the top (mussy hooks at the top). The crux is the entry to the crack.

Dave Daly - Dec 15, 2008 11:22 am - Voted 8/10

Re: North and west faces

As you mentioned Brutus, Deb and I concur with that rating. There is another route to the right of it approx. 15' and checks in about the same with the same number of bolts (3). The rock on this side is pretty nice. Dunno why the book gives them only 2-stars. Felt both deserved 3-stars

brutus of wyde - Mar 23, 2008 1:46 am - Voted 10/10

Slingshot Tower?

The "distinct phalic formation" shown in the title photo now has a route up the north arete: Slingshot Arete, 4 bolts to chains, 5.9, FA February 10 2008 by Brutus, Nurse Ratchet, and Tim Standing. All bolts hand drilled. Cheers, Brutus

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Images

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