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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

Training for Cho Oyu

I am currently training myself for this summer's Cho Oyu trip. Would like to get some advice from those who have 8000 meter experience: what's the reasonable cardio level I should achieve for this kind of expedition?

Currently I train myself with long run (1 per week, 8 mile/h pace for about 8 miles), in gym with stair (interval, work rate 145 steps/minute for 2 minutes, rest with 70 steps/minute for 2 minutes, total 1 ...
Read more : Training for Cho Oyu | Views : 8396 | Replies : 29

Packing Technique

What's the norm for packing technique on a belay parka or other insulating layers?

Do you just leave room at the top of the back to accomodate the "jamming it in there so i can't quickly get it out" method? Do people normally take the time to get them in and out of compression sacks?

Does anyone just strap a layer to the outside of the pack if you know you'll be adding/shedding that layer ...
Read more : Packing Technique | Views : 4669 | Replies : 7

Knot Booklet

I have been working for a while on a Knot Pamphlet that, perhaps inevitably, morphed into a 40+ Knot Booklet.

Thought folks here might like to have a look.

It is not specific to climbing, it is more of a general Knot Booklet, but I think members will find several of the knots useful.

It is made available under the Creative Common License, so it is free, with the following conditions:
Attribution – Noncommercial – ...
Read more : Knot Booklet | Views : 3014 | Replies : 7

Making MORE time to train

I average about an hour a day of good general exercise (wts, cardio, yoga), including weekends. I also have a regular job and a commute (11 hrs tot), not to mention family. I get to the gym by 5 AM and try to walk (fast) at lunch hour when I can but I hit the wall after work. I'm not in bad shape but I am also not in great shape.

I need to train ...
Read more : Making MORE time to train | Views : 2998 | Replies : 3

Solo Summits

Hi all,

I have been a hiker and climber for quite a long time and I have recently come into love with mountaineering. I took a technical course in New Zealand a year ago and I loved it. I am traveling to Patagonia soon for a 3 week break from university where I will just be trekking around, but I remembered one of my guides while in New Zealand.

She would often do solo summits ...
Read more : Solo Summits | Views : 2814 | Replies : 1

Ice Climbing after Broken Foot

Hey all...

I recently broke my 5th metatarsal and am in a boot for 6 - 8 weeks. I'll get out of the boot just in time for ice season, but I'm concerned about kicking ice on a freshly healed foot.

Anyone have any experience with this injury? How long did it take to recover?
Read more : Ice Climbing after Broken Foot | Views : 2611 | Replies : 2

Tips on making mountaineering affordable?

I have climbed in Nepal, Bolivia and Russia and I am going to climb Kilimanjaro in February.

I am looking for tips on making climbs more affordable without sacrificing safety.

I live in Australia so already I am looking for $2k flight to go anywhere other than NZ. I am thinking of moving to the UK for 2 years to climb throughout Europe more. The other thing I am trying to work out is how ...
Read more : Tips on making mountaineering affordable? | Views : 16918 | Replies : 33

Tendinosis help in NY.

I need some help/advice folks. I have a friend living in NY city who has chronic tendinosis (medial epicondylitis). He's had cortisone injections and physical therapy but it hasn't really helped him. He has serious pain when gripping and turning.
Does anyone know of someone who specializes in dealing with that particular injury in the city area. Also, any ideas for exercises/treatments?
Read more : Tendinosis help in NY. | Views : 2324 | Replies : 4

Metal plate in leg problems at altitude ?

Hey All,

I have some screws and a plate in my leg and ankle after an kitesurfing accident a few months back. I'm just wondering if any one has experience with any issues with metalwork at altitude or long periods in cold temps etc..

Thanks in advance..
Read more : Metal plate in leg problems at altitude ? | Views : 2426 | Replies : 3

FYI: Power Hungry: The Ultimate Energy Bar Cookbook

Just got a copy of
Power Hungry: The Ultimate Energy Bar Cookbook
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Hungry-TM-U ... 189110554X
The book is chock full of recipes (40 base recipes with 100+ variations)
Categories include:
Super natural Knock-offs (Clif, Kind, Fiber One, Powerbar Protein Plus, Promax, Pure Protein, Nature Valley Granola Bars, Clif Shot Energy Bloks, Larabar, Luna)
Activity Bars
Endurance Bars
Protein Bars
Raw and Almost Raw Bars

recipes/ideas for gluten-free, paleo, ...
Read more : FYI: Power Hungry: The Ultimate Energy Bar Cookbook | Views : 2364 | Replies : 0


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