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Tips, tricks, workouts, injury advice.

Pros/cons of PAS for use at belay/rap stations?

Howdy,
I have been using a Metolius PAS for securing myself at belay/rap anchors but I have read some disturbing things about fall-forces when using same-sounds as if you can take a fall serious enough(even of a couple of feet!) to possibly pull the anchor or suffer other physical injury?

I try to make sure that I completely load the PAS to eliminate any slack, but I am wondering if there is a better way ...
Read more : Pros/cons of PAS for use at belay/rap stations? | Views : 2703 | Replies : 20


newbie question belaying from top with setback anchors

Sorry, this may be a dumb question!

There is a pretty easy top-rope climb a really short drive from my office that has fixed anchors at the cliff top. They are set back a ways from the edge, and there is a nice ledge a few feet down the cliff that you can stand on to start your rappel or belay from. I've usually belayed my partner from below and then he belays me from ...
Read more : newbie question belaying from top with setback anchors | Views : 4359 | Replies : 14


What is your Alpine Rope?

I know this is a can of worms as evidenced by the thread less than a year ago in the California forum which explored the same topic. I recently climbed North Palisade with a friend and we opted to climb the 4th class crack/face just west of the chimney. My friend brought a 8mm rope of some kind, twin or double, and a very thin rack. He led way off route and we ended up ...
Read more : What is your Alpine Rope? | Views : 6220 | Replies : 29


Prusik knot, single handed

How long has it been since you tried to tie a Prusik knot (triple sliding hitch) with one hand ?
I haven't done this since the exam, have to try it again! :lol:
Read more : Prusik knot, single handed | Views : 1576 | Replies : 11


Bailing due to impending bad weather.

I have bailed more times than I have completed my scheduled back and front country climbing agendas. Lately, that includes my scheduled guiding gigs.

99% due to impending weather situ's/forcast. Looking back, am glad that we/I made the decision to do so as every time the forecast came true. Many of those turned out far worse than what was originally forecasted.

I have this terrible allergy towards lightning and getting nailed by it up in ...
Read more : Bailing due to impending bad weather. | Views : 3435 | Replies : 23


Free new Climbing Trainer for iOS and Web

Me and some friends (climbers and climbing trainers) have been busy developing a climbing trainer application for iOS and the web.

I'd love to have you guys try out our beta when it debuts in September.

We are providing two methods for building training sessions, a manual system which is totally free and an algorithmic system which is by monthly subscription.

http://www.climbingmonster.com/

Thanks for taking a look!
Rami
Read more : Free new Climbing Trainer for iOS and Web | Views : 823 | Replies : 0


You train for mountains?!

I like to think that I'm in good shape but spent the last month or so on a fishing boat in Alaska and that completely took away my mountain legs. So give me your one month hard training for big mountains. 8,000m big. Have access to the Cascades, Squamish & Sierra.
Read more : You train for mountains?! | Views : 3468 | Replies : 15


Training Plans for Mountaineering

As a cyclist, we often train with fixed plans and workouts from coaches. I haven't noticed any coaches for mountaineering and climbing, but I am planning on taking a year off, maybe to climb all of the European Country highpoints. To train for the trip I am looking for coaches and training plans. Are there any coaches that can give me training plans, or is that unheard of? Thanks.
Read more : Training Plans for Mountaineering | Views : 8892 | Replies : 37


Ski Touring Technique?

Ok so this might not be shin bash but I am happy to hear from experience.

2 years ago I was touring on old soft boot and stupidly skied on the piste hard for a day. A day or two later a pain in my right shin appeared that was excruciating. It didn’t hurt to touch or rub and nothing was visible. But to ski the pain was unbearable. I tried padding out with those ...
Read more : Ski Touring Technique? | Views : 1333 | Replies : 8


A couple of cordelette questions from a NOOB.

A couple of (dumb?) questions on cordelettes;

1) What cord diameter and material of construction do you folks prefer? I have seen everything from 5mm on up to 7mm; nylon or?
2) What length cord? 15 feet, 20, ??
3) Knots: just use a double fisherman's or??
4) Should cords be made from static line or can you use a dynamic line?

Thanks for the input!
Read more : A couple of cordelette questions from a NOOB. | Views : 9810 | Replies : 55


 

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