tazz wrote:I have always wanted to do this route. It is the "5.10 boulder move" in Mvs's page that sketches me. Can you get around it? Mvs? dan? anyone? I wanna do this peak and not do the slogging colchuck glacier route.
Although MVS and I took different routes on our ascents, I think we joined the same route at some point because his description of the 5.10 boulder move and the pitches following sound very much like the terrain we climbed to exit the 4th class ledge and gain the ridge crest. From the route we took, it looked like the only viable option. It was kind of sketchy because the belay anchors were two small pieces placed far apart and there were a few unprotected, insecure moves before able to reach high to place a cam in a horizontal crack. After that a crack (I remember a diehedral at some point) offers good protection and more secure climbing. That said, there is route latitude on the buttress and one can gain the ridge crest before the start of the 4th class ledge, although it might not be any easier to continue along the buttress crest.