As I approach my 75th Birthday I thought it might be fun to look back on what climbing was like
back in the 50's in the Northwest. In August 1956 at age 16 my climbing buddy Harry Irwin and a
young climber we knew named Dick Rosenow met In Tacoma to leave on an eight day climbing
trip to the Sawtooth Range in the Olympic Mountains. We loaded our "Trapper Nelson" Wood and
Canvas Backpacks in to the trundle seat of Harry's 1938 Chevy Coupe. I drew the short straw and
had to ride with my legs rapped around the stick floor shift for the eighty mile drive around Hoods
Canal and up the Staircase to the end of the Hamma Hamma River Road which extended to within
4.5 miles of Flapjack Lakes. Today it ends near the Staircase Ranger Station and leaves hikers a
10 mile hike to the lakes. We adjusted our 60+ packs, placed the trump lines across our foreheads
and headed out in our 6 pound logging boots up the trail to the two lakes. We arrived at Lower
Flapjack Lake and deposited our packs on the narrow outlet from Upper Flapjack Lake in to the
lower lake. At that time two cabins were located at the lakes. Both made of Western Red Cedar
logs and shingles. One was a complete cabin. The second had logs up the sides to about three
feet and a suspended Cedar roof. Both were in good condition at that time. The Forest Service
and Park Service have made it a policy in recent years to remove the old shelters from the
Olympics.
It was great weather in the 70's so we chose to sleep outdoors on the narrow outlet between
the two lakes. We filled our water kettle directly from the Upper Lake and did not treat the
water at all. No other hikers or campers were at the lake.
The second day we were up by six and sorting the gear we planned to take on our first day of
climbing. Our gear consisted of three pairs of Van's Creape Soled Shoes, a 120' 7/16" Manila Rope,
10 Manila 1/4" slings for repels, 10 steel standard Oval Carabiners, 3 Locking steel D Carabiners,
an assortment of 12 small horizontal and vertical iron pins, 10 D Rings for repelling, three sets of
flat nylon webbing for making seat harnesses for long repels, and three ice axes.
We decided for our first day we would climb Mt Cruiser which at the time had only two completed
routes on it. We hiked the trail to Gladys Divide and headed to the right in to the chute leading to
the ridge south of Cruiser. Using our ice axes we were able to kick steps up the hard snow to the
Gap. Looking at the "Needle" we decided this would be a good place to test our rock climbing
skills. We climbed the 130' pinnacle unroped as we were to do on most of the peaks in the range.
After downclimbing the pinnacle instead of repelling we gathered our day packs and headed north
along the ridge crest towards Cruiser. Just before reaching the summit pyramid we were forced
to drop down and on to some loose scree to approach the gully and chockstone rock leading to the
ledge below the final seventy foot face climb to the summit. The final 70' with the big drop off
below was one of the few times on the trip we roped up. Dick, being the oldest, he was 18, led
the pitch. Soon we were sitting on the summit reading the Summit Register. The first ascent
was in 1938. There before our eyes was the name of the climber we all had heard about, Third
ascent by Fred Becky and his brother. in 1948 if I remember correctly. We added our names
as the 7th Ascent recorded. It was a good start to our trip in perfect weather. We set up our
repel and using the old the "One Carabiner Repel" with the rope over the shoulder. We shot down the cliff to
the ledge above the chockstone. We retraced our route to Needle Pass. We decided there
was still had lots of daylight left so we decided after eating a lunch of salami and cheese to climb
Castle Spires. We free climbed over the ridge south of the Pass to the summit. First ascent
was made in 1952 and ours was the third. We down climbed the peaks to the south to reach
Sawtooth Pass. We climbed down the easy rock to the boulders below the pass, traversed to
the Glady's Divide Trail and hurried back down to Flapjack Lakes. We gathered huckleberries
and cooked some pancakes which tasted especially good with the fresh berries.
That evening as we sat by the shore of Upper Flapjack Lake a large black bear came out of the
woods at the upper end of the lake and wandered out on the open slope and began digging for roots
and berries. As we got in to our sleeping bags at dark we could see the bear running up the open
slope and disappear over the ridge in to the drainage near Lincoln Peak. We slept well that night.
Our Van shoes had worked well on the Sawtooth rock, but were already beginning to show signs of
wear and tear. We thought it was a streak of genius that we remembered to bring a roll of duck
tape along. It looked like it was going to get a lot of use!!!!!!

(if anyone wants to read more let me know! If no one answers this post I will skip writing more.)
Happy Climbing!
Murph 1

Day 3
As dawn arrived our fabulous weather continued to hold. Puffy cumulus clouds filled the sky. We pulled out
our cast iron frying pan and cooked up some bacon and trout which Harry had caught the previous evening. After
putting out our fire we headed up the trail towards Glady's Divide. When we came out of the forested part of
the Glady's Divide Trai we traversed down to our right and skirted the small tarn in meadows and crossed the
boulder area to the foot of the chute leading to the low point between "The Fin", and "The Horn". We scampered
up the easy rock to the gap and took a short break. We decided we would tackle The Fin first. As its name
suggests from the Flapjack Lakes side it resembles a Sharks Dorsal Fin. The decision was made to traverse north
a bit on the Mildred Lakes side and then climb a somewhat broken route to the top. It was Class 3-4 and was
not the standard easy route or directly up the south ridge. Again we climbed the route free as we determined
there were no suitable belay points. Arriving on top we opened the container containing the ascents and there
recorded as the second ascent was the Becky brothers. We added ours as the fourth. After some peanut butter,
crackers, and cheese we hurried down the easy Class 2 route on the northeast side of the peak and began crossing
back south on mixed rock and talus slopes. Arriving below the West Face of The Horn we realized that this peak
was going to be an interesting challenge. Keep in mind that at the time we climbed these peaks there were no
"Guide Books" giving detailed direcitions as to where the routes were on the peaks. We found the chimney with
the Cannon Hole and climbed up and threw the hole on to a ledge similar to that on Cruiser. Traversing right
we got to the edge of the final fifty foot face climb to the summit. At this point we roped up and Harry led off
up the face to the summit. Dick and I followed suit and the three of us huddled on the small summit area.
Out came the Summit Register. Again the Becky Brothers were there as the second ascent. Ours was the third.
We began to mumble a bit to ourselves. Was there any peak in this range the Becky Brothers hadn't beat us
to. The beginnings of a Crusade to find some peak to climb in the Sawtooth that we had been there before them
took shape. Replacing the Register we repelled off the top back to the ledge and downclimbed back
to the scree and talus slopes below the east side face. While traversing one of these steep loose slopes, the
loose rocks gave way beneath me and I went sliding down the unstable mass on my rear end. Harry and Dick
both yelled in unison, "Stop yourself! There is a drop off!" With about six feet to spare I reached out and
grabbed a small Alpine Fir sapling clinging to the rocks and stopped my precarious slide. I climbed back up a
and had a good laugh, but my two companions were not amused. "We thought you were going to die right in
front of our eyes!" they stressed. "We almost had heart attacks watching you slide towards that 200' drop off."
I had not felt the threat they did, but I was a bit more careful on the next patch of loose rock. We returned
to Flapjack Lakes by way of Sawtooth Pass and the Glady's Divide Trail Before heading down from the pass
I downed a whole poly bottle of Orange Drink. By the time we reached the trail I was sick to my stomach,
and throwing up. Even since that trip I can not drink orange drink when backpacking or climbing. I
just can't stand the smell of the stuff!
Arriving in camp we again had a dinner of pancakes and berries. If you are beginning to get the jist of
our cooking supplies much revolved around pancake flour, bacon, salami, crackers, peanut butter, and
cheese. That was pretty much our diet mixed with fish from the lake. We hung our bacon in a burlap
bag 15' off the ground and at least ten feet out on a limb. Fish we cleaned and submerged in the lake
on a line out from shore so the bears would not be attracted to them. We did have an original Optimus
1 Kerosene Stove made in Sweden. I still have it in its original cases. It was the hardest damn stove
to start I ever used. You had to prime it with lighter fluid around the funnel tube, pump it just right,
or it either flamed up, shot kerosene all over you or sputtered. If you happened to be lucky and there
was no wind, it wasn't freezing cold, and you had said your prayers, it just might come to life and you
would hear that distinct sound that only an operating Optimus or Primus Stove can make. Usually all
anyone around me ever heard was a steady stream of curses as to the ancestry of the man who invented
that demon stove. I could start a better fire with the pile of used "Strike Anywhere" matches I used to
try and start that %^&#@*.....stove!
I wandered from my story, but it had to be said! I feel much better now! Day 4 tomorrow!
Take Care! Happy Climbing!

Day 4
We were amazed on Day 4 when we awoke to another day of 80 degree weather. For the Olympics that
is a huge heat wave no matter what time of year. Our objectives for the day were to climb the small
points southwest of The Horn. We got started around 7:am and hoisted our daypacks and our quickly
deteriorating Van's now covered in duct tape. It took about ten minutes to arrive at a point in the forest
above the lakes where we felt we should leave the trail and travel through the timber east towards the bowl
below the chute leading to the low point between The Horn to the north and the Cleaver to the south.
The chute was easy scrambling and we came out on the low point quickly. As with our other climbs in
the range we found it easier to traverse the ridge on the east side. We climbed and traversed southwest
to an easy one pitch climb of The Cleaver. No summit record. I did a hands on one side and feet on
the other shuffle up the ridge to the top of Slab Tower. No Summit Record. After these two easy
objectives we walked the ridge top over to The Rectagon. At first we didn't see an obvious route to the
summit until Harry found a ledge running out over the West Face. Lots of exposure, but reasonable
Class 4 climbing on the single pitch on the south ridge. The Summit Record indicated the Becky's
had been there first. We were again the third party to the top. Serious mumbling later and we were
off to climb The Trylon which was next on the ridge. Technically, this point is the hardest to climb.
We solved the problem of surmounting the overhang with the high handhold by me holding Harry's
shoe against the rock and him pushing up and grabbing the handhold and pulling himself up and
over the bulge. Once the three of us were on top we opened the Summit Record to find that
the Becky's had made the first ascent (I checked my Olympic Mountains Climbing Guide-It says
it was 1941 they made the climb. My mind has 1948 in it for some reason) We were the second
ascent party. We repelled the short distance back to the ridge, and moved around to Picture Pinnacle.
I don't remember much about climbing it other than Fred and his brother had beaten us again.
After finding a ledge to eat our late lunch on we sat in the shade and relaxed with our packs and
gear stashed nearby. While kicking back eating some cheese slices and my last apple I heard some
strange sound from around the corner of the ledge we were on. In about five seconds the body
of a mountain goat came in t view about twenty feet from where we sat with our feet dangling
in space. The Adult Male Goat walked to within ten feet of me and began licking and sniffing
our rope and the leather straps on one of the daypacks. We watch for a couple minutes, but
when he began to use his teeth on one of the leather straps we made noise and he retreated
out of sight back around the corner of the ledge. Later as we downclimbed towards the low
point above Harness Chute, as it is now called, we spotted four adult goats and a oungster climb-
ing north along the ridge.
We descended the chute, jumped from boulder to boulder down the bowl towards the lakes
and were back in camp soon enough for Dick and I to collect huckleberries and Harry to
catch some trout. We were beat and hit the sack early that night. The next day Harry
had to leave and drive back to Tacoma for a family wedding. Even with no sleeping pads
and just a couple of Douglas Fir branches under us we slept well in our Army Surplus
Duck Feathered Mummy Bags. No one in that day thought about the damage to the forest
that would take place with everyone chopping down branches to use for sleeping and
making open fires. Even today at Flapjack Lakes you can see the damage done in the
1950's and 1960's by hikers and climbers not using good conservation practices. I was
one of that generation. We have come a long way since then!

Day 5
We awoke to the sound of a woodpecker knocking on a nearby tree and two Blue
Jays squabbling over something. Again the weather was beautiful out. Since Harry
had to leave this day we helped him get his gear packed. The plan for the day was
for the three of us to make a loop trip envolving hiking a half mile down the Flapjacks
Lake trail to the Black and White Lakes Trail and then following it to above where it
drops down in to the pocket holding the lakes. We would then crosscountry up the
light forest and out in to the alpine slopes of Mt Henderson and Mt Skokomish. We
planned to climb the two peaks and cross the basin to Glady's Divide and return to
Flapjacks Lake. Harry would then hike out in the evening to his car and return home.
By the fifth day we were in top form and virtually trotted down the half mile to
the trail junction. We wet our faces in the stream running out of Flapjacks and
then hurried up the Black and White Lakes Trail to the point where the trail descended
down. The area had burned over a couple of years previous and large blackened
trees stood on the hillside. Huckleberries were everywhere and we stuffed ourselves
with them. As we sidehilled up the shoulder of Mt Henderson the trees and brush
gave way to talas slopes and meadows. We progressed quickly enjoying the clear
views off towards the peaks to the northwest. The green river canyons held that
cloudy haze they get on hot days. After a couple hours we came to the top of
Mt Henderson and sat down for a break. We were looking right across at Mt
Cruiser and the valley which leads down from Glady's Divide. Mt. Skokomish loomed
along the ridge from Henderson. It looked like a long envolved traverse to its top
so with time a factor to get Harry back to Flapjack Lakes so he could get out before
dark, we decided to skip climbing Skokomish, and go up Mt Glady's above the pass,
and then head down the trail to the lakes. The Basin was a joy to cross with wild
flowers in abundance everywhere and lots of small rivelets running down to get
drinks from and soak out bandanas in to keep cool. The climb up Mt Glady's was
a walk. We enjoyed the view to the south of Mt Lincoln. Then we headed down
to camp at the lake. We arrived about 4pm. Harry gathered up his pack, said
he would tell Dick's Mom to come pick us up on the seventh day instead of the
eighth. We were running out of food, and we had climbed almost all the peaks
we had set out to do. By 5pm Harry was gone and Dick and I contemplated a
meal of macaroni and cheese and huckleberries for dessert. We built a small
fire and noted that the long whispy cirrus clouds were beginning to be replaced
by solid stratus, the wind had picked up, and the temperature was dropping.
Those were all strong signs that our beautiful climbing weather was about to
end.
With the better part of valor on our side we retreated from the outlet be-
tween the two lakes to the smaller of the two shelters. We put down a
rain poncho and placed our sleeping bags on it. We were too tired to bring
branches over to pad the floor and keep us warmer. Sleep came as the
wind began to make itself known.

Dau 6
I awoke at about 4:am to dead silence outside the shelter. Looking outside
all I could see was wet fog. It hung from the trees. Everything outside the
shelter was totally wet. A steady drizzle was coming down and visibility was
less than 25'. I tucked my head back down in my bag and decided that climbing
today wasn't in the cards. At 6:30am Dick shook me and said, "Come on Murph!
Get up! We are not going to let a little wet weather keep us from climbing."
My heart wasn't in it but I got out of my bag, dressed, and reluctantly followed
Dick up the trail. I didn't have good vibes about climbing that day, but was
afraid to tell Dick that because he was so enthusiastic about climbing a new
route that the Becky's had not done.
Dick decided we should climb the Castle Spires from the west. I said OK
and we put on our coated nylon rain parkas and headed up the Glady's Divide
Trail in a steady drizzle. When we came out of the trees we couldn't see
the little tarn below us, but cut down the hillside through the wet grass and
skirted the tarn to the north east until we reached to broken walls of Castle
Spires. We roped up and Dick led off up the now slippery rock. I followed
along unenthusiastically with that feeling that I was not going to have a
good day. After some low 5th Class moves and several Class 4 patches we
were on top. Visibility was still at most 50'-100'. We made a repel down the south-
west side of the peak and worked our way on the west side of The Fin. Somewhere
on the west face of The Horn a large flake has detached itself from the main body
of rock. I decided I would climb it while Dick belayed me from a ledge. I went up
about 25' and put a manila loop over a projection and hooked a carabiner to the
loop and ran the rope through the carabiner. Then I moved off left on the face
looking for easier rock to reach the top. Sure enough, my misgivings earlier came
in to play. I slipped from a hold and went sailing backwards across the face ram-
ming my shoulder and back in to the wall. It knocked the wind out of me and
shook my confidence. Dick lowered me to the ledge. I looked down the wall and
realized that if I had not put that runner over that bulge I would have ended up a
hundred feet down the cliff. Not a pretty prospect. I didn't lead again all day.
I was a pretty bad companion for Dick the rest of the day. The fall combined
with the weather, and my lack of experience taking falls added up to a very
quiet, withdrawn climber. We sloshed back to camp that evening we wet socks,
wet boots, wet pants, and wet undies too. It took a couple of hours of hanging
our clothes over an open Red Cedar Fire to dry everything out. Our last dinner
of cheese, crackers, and our last orange lifted my spirits a bit. We went to
bed around 9:30pm.

Day 7
The weather had cleared a bit overnight. It wasn't foggy, but it wasn't warm
either. The sky was cloud covered and you knew that more rain was on its way
soon. We ate a lot more huckleberries, packed our packs and headed down
the trail to the trailhead. It took us just over one hour to make it to the road.
We dumped our packs and took a nap while we waited to be picked up. Dick's
Mom arrived around 11am. We loaded our gear in her nice Dodge sudan and
piled in for the ride back to Tacoma. All I remember about the ride out of
Staircase to Hoodsport was billowing clouds of dust behind the car as we
drove down the dirt and gravel road. When we reached civilization all Dick
and I could think of was "FOOD"!!!! We talked his Mom in to stopping at a
Burger place. I remember ordering a Double Burger with Cheese, a platter
of French Fries, a green mixed salad, a Strawberry Shake, and a Squirt Drink.
Finished it all in about five minutes and could have probably downed another
burger with no problem.
When I arrived home my mother stopped me at the door and said, "Son!
Walk around to the back door, strip off all your clothes and throw them
in the dirty laundry tub, and go directly to the shower! You smell like a
cross between a Cedar Tree and sweaty work shirts!" I did what Mom
said. It was a great trip even if we didn't beat the Becky's to a summit in
the Sawtooth Range.
Hope those that read this enjoyed my look back in time!