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Pomagagnon
Mountain/Rock

Pomagagnon

 
Pomagagnon

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno (Veneto), Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.57080°N / 12.14680°E

Object Title: Pomagagnon

Activities: Trad Climbing, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8038 ft / 2450 m

 

Page By: gabriele

Created/Edited: Aug 14, 2004 / Jun 7, 2008

Object ID: 152939

Hits: 7523 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

When, in Cortina, you give a glance northward you first see this shining wall ...
most of Cortina post-cards have this mountain as a curtain



It is the southern limit of Cristallo Group, divided by a fine valley, confortable and very fine for hiking.
 
schematical map
 
Thought not so high, it's difference in height is almost 1200 m over Cortina, and it's walls are up to 650 m drop ... very fine and amusing to climb (easy, middle and difficult routes live together)

This mountain is complex, is a real subgroup that can be divided in 3 sections

starting from west :
Ra Pezories
Pomagagnon
Crepe di Zumeles

some very fine (one day) hiking routes around and on this subgroups
very interesting (for skilled hikers) the possibility to climb the Bartoldo summits (the most important) along some big ledges

Getting There

all logistics info are in Cortina dolomites page

the hiking valley between Cristallo and Pomagagnon can be reached from north starting from Ospitale, along Alemagna road, between Dobbiaco and Cortina.

the hiking and climbing south wall can be reached directly from Fiames (big parking possibilities on the same road ) or from Istituto Codivilla (Cortina Hospital) that has a bus service stop (bus services in Cortina are very good)

Some white road allows to get nearer the wall .. I used them some years ago, but I think that could be closed to private cars now.

Coming down is always easy on the northern side using good tracks and some paths

Ra Pezories (western branch)

Prima Pala Pezories - 2348 m
a fine route(Consiglio-dall'Oglio) on its west side, 650 m drop, difficulty up to 4° degree

Torrione Scoiattoli - 1889 m
a fine yellow steeple, 2 hard routes on it, about 250 m drop

Punta Fiames - 2240 m
often climbed along its very classic routes (600-700 m drop):
- S wall - normal route - 600 m - 4°
- SE edge (Jori) - 5° the best some variants in the lower part can make a little easier the climb
- S wall (Dimai-Dibona) - 5° sup
- S wall (Strobèl) - 700 m, - 5° sup
on the NW side a good "ferrata" : via Albino Michielli Strobèl (exposed and not easy)

Punta della Croce - 2300 m
2 routes on its S wall (650 m drop):
- primary (Siorpaes-Verzi) - 4° inf
- straight (Costantini) - 4° sup

Campanile Dimai - 2310 m
drop of its walls is almost 600 m
- S wall (Dimai-von Eötvös) - 3° with 2 pitches of 5°
- SE ridge (Mayer) - 3°
- S wall (Apollonio-Alverà) - 5° sup

Punta Armando has one difficult route but a bad quality rock

Gusela del Padeon - 2252 m
easy for hikers, starting from Ospitale through the Val Grande

Croda Longes - 2443 m
easy for climbers (passages of 2°) rope useful


Pomagagnon (central branch)

Croda di Pomagagnom - 2450 m
easy from north (1°) very difficult from south (Ghedina-Apollonio.Menardi) but not so fine ...

Testa del Bartoldo - 2442 m
Costa del Bartoldo - 2435 m
the most important summit of the group, many routes on this wall where 2 big ledges give the opportunity of:
- having a very fine hiking (even for ibexes)
- chain the routes
- have a fast coming down :)
on this wall most routes are of middle difficulty

- S wall - classic route (Dimai-Phillimore) - 3° - wonderful long and various
- S wall - along the 5° ledge (Dimai-Phillimore) - easier, useful for coming down, with some metallic fixed rope ...
- S wall - (Terschak) - 550 m - 4° - fine
- SE edge - (Merlet-Degregorio) - 600 m - 4°
- E wall - (Dallamano-Ghirardini) - 4° - some danger for falling stones
- S wall (Dibona) - difficult but not so fine
- S wall (Alverà-Menardi) - difficult but not so fine

Crepe di Zumeles (eastern branch)

Punta Cestelis - 2342
easy hiking from north (best route)
S wall (Alverà-Costantini-Apollonio) - 450 m - discontinuous difficulties (from 3° to 6°)
SW wall (Ghedina-Lorenzi) 450 m - 5°

Punta Erbing - 2301 m
easy hiking from north
- S wall (primary) - 350 m - 2°
- S wall (Menardi) - 350 m - 4° - not fine

Pala and Campanile Peròsego - 2230 m
2 small elevations with some sport climbing routes, not important nor fine ...


When To Climb

starting from may till october

Camping

best camping for this mountain is camping Olympia (Fiames), where from you can directly start on foot to approach all the routes
(and enjoy a very good restaurant with prices much cheaper than Cortina standard)

Images