Cortina Dolomites
Overview
TORRE GRANDE DI FALZAREGO m. 2550
In the neighbourhood of Passo Falzarego (m. 2105) there are numberless towers of high quality dolomia lying in the Fanis group, quickly accessible from the road rising toward the pass. Among these peaks Torre Grande di Falzarego is one of the most interesting, because of its beautiful slender shape, the exposition of its climbing routes and the quality of the rock. The peak shows a steep yellow and grey South-East face, overlooking the ruins of an ancient military hospital, and a shorter
grey and compact
West face.
History
Emilio Comici
Angelo Dibona
First summit ascent: unknown along the gully between Torre Grande di Falzarego and Cima Falzarego
Two of the outstanding alpinists of their time put the signature on Torre Grande: Angelo Dibona (1879-1956), maybe the greatest Alpine Guide at the beginning of the twentieth century, a resolute winner of the most difficult faces of the Dolomites; Emilio Comici (1901-1940), one of the leading representative of the “Sixth Grade’s Age”.
Views from Torre Grande di Falzarego
Tofana di Rozes
Cinque Torri and Croda da Lago
Torre Piccola di Falzarego
Lagazuoi
Getting there
ROAD ACCESS- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo, here follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego.
- Road approach from Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo.
WALKING ACCESS TO SE FACE ROUTES
From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road (Boscato, m. 2168). Turn to right (East), getting to the ruins of the ancient military hospital. From here a steep trail is rising at the bottom of the face. (30 min. from the parking)
WALKING ACCESS TO W FACE ROUTES
From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road. Turn to left (West), walking on a steep trail leading to the base of the face (50 min. from the parking).
Routes overview
Via Dibona ending chimney
Via Dibona
All the routes on Torre Grande di Falzarego (UIAA Scale)
South-East face
- Via Comici-Del Torso V, 300 m.
- Via Dibona V+, 300 m.
West Face
- Via Alpini IV, 160 m.
- South-West Ridge, Via Lussato III, IV, m. 180
Red Tape
There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD ERITAGE and requires the best care and respect.Where to stay
- Col Gallina Hut is the nearest one, otherwise there are some hotels and huts on Passo FalzaregoWhen to climb
Best season goes from the middle of June to the middle of SeptemberMeteo
DOLOMITI METEODOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it
Guidebooks and maps
 |
 |
 |
“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna
“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia
Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000
