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Torre Grande di Falzarego
Mountain/Rock

Torre Grande di Falzarego

 
Torre Grande di Falzarego

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.52663°N / 12.02282°E

Object Title: Torre Grande di Falzarego

County: Veneto

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 8366 ft / 2550 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Oct 26, 2012 / Jan 24, 2016

Object ID: 822007

Hits: 3741 

Page Score: 89.39%  - 29 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Fanis Group > Torre Grande di Falzarego



Torre Grande di Falzarego m. 2550





In the neighbourhood of Passo Falzarego (m. 2105) there are several towers and walls of high quality dolomia belonging to Fanis group and quickly accessible from the road joining Cortina d'Ampezzo and Falzarego. Among these peaks Torre Piccola di Falzarego and its major sister Torre Grande di Falzarego are amongst the most interesting ones, in reason of their beautiful slender shape, the exposition of the climbing routes and the quality of the rock. Torre Grande shows a steep yellow and grey South-East face, overlooking the ruins of an ancient military hospital, and a shorter grey and compact West face.


Torre Grande di Falzarego Dibona topo
Torre Grande di Falzarego Dibona topo



History

 
Emilio Comici
Emilio Comici
 
Angelo Dibona, one of the greatest Alpine Guide
Angelo Dibona






First summit ascent: unknown along the gully between Torre Grande di Falzarego and Cima Falzarego

Two of the outstanding alpinists of their time put the signature on Torre Grande: Angelo Dibona (1879-1956), maybe the greatest Alpine Guide at the beginning of the twentieth century, a resolute winner of the most difficult faces of the Dolomites; Emilio Comici (1901-1940), one of the leading representative of the “Sixth Grade’s Age”.


Getting there

Road access

- Road approach from Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, reaching San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo, here follow the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego.

- Road approach from Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway, exit to Bressanone and then follow the road SS 51 along Pusteria Valley, reaching Brunico and Dobbiaco; from Dobbiaco follow on the right Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin m. 1432. At the fork road in Carbonin turn to right towards Cortina d’Ampezzo.


Walking approach to South-East Face routes

From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road (Boscato, m. 2168). Turn to right (East), getting to the ruins of the ancient military hospital. From here a steep trail is rising at the bottom of the face. (30 min. from the parking)

Walking approach to West Face routes

From Ristorante Strobel m. 2055 (parking), situated on the right of the road rising towards Passo Falzarego, about 1 km. before getting to the col from Cortina d’Ampezzo, follow an obvious path ( red-white marks) rising to a level war-road. Turn to left (West), walking on a steep trail leading to the base of the face (50 min. from the parking).

Routes overview

All the routes on Torre Grande di Falzarego (UIAA Scale)

There are two main climbing walls on the tower: a steep yellow and grey SE face and a more affordable grey West Face.

Via Dibona, the top of the famous chimney
Via Dibona ending chimney

Nikibi beautiful slab
Via Dibona




South-East face

- Via Comici-Del Torso V, 300 m.
- Via Dibona V+, 300 m.

West Face

- Via Alpini IV, 160 m.
- South-West Ridge, Via Lussato III, IV, m. 180


Torre Grande di Falzarego summit cairn and Tofana di Rozes
Summit cairn and Tofana di Rozes

The flying
Downclimbing on the descent route



Descent:
The descent is along the normal route. Head to the North along a groove that leads to the fork that divides the Torre Grande from Cima Falzarego (I and II, some anchors in place). From the fork descent to the left (facing out, West) following a track and some cairns (steps II). Reaching the bottom of the notch that divides the two towers follow the track down to the right (facing out, East). Cairns. From here you will be soon on the former military road (path route 412).

Red Tape

There are not particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE and requires the best care and respect.


Torre Piccola di Falzarego approach path
Torre Grande di Falzarego approach path
Marmolada North side
Marmolada from the WWI hospital
Torre Falzarego
Torri di Falzarego
Cinque Torri and Croda da Lago
View over Cinque Torri and Croda da Lago
Lagazuoi Piccolo and Lagazuoi Hut on the summit
Lagazuoi seen from Torre Grande"
Tofana di Rozes seen from Torre Grande di Falzarego
Tofana di Rozes seen from Torre Grande

Where to stay

- Col Gallina Hut is the nearest one, otherwise there are some hotels and huts on Passo Falzarego

When to climb

Best season goes from the middle of June to the middle of September

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO - VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008
CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Torre Grande di Falzarego map
 


“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“IV grado in Dolomiti” by Emiliano Zorzi - Ed. Idea Montagna

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia




Map: Tabacco 03 – Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000

Images