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Croda Marcora

Croda Marcora

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Croda Marcora

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.50570°N / 12.20821°E

Object Title: Croda Marcora

County: Cortina Dolomites

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling, Via Ferrata

Season: Summer

Elevation: 10348 ft / 3154 m


Page By: andrea.it

Created/Edited: Sep 30, 2013 / Sep 30, 2013

Object ID: 869717

Hits: 2093 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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For anyone who wants to reach the village of Cortina d'Ampezzo, from the valley of Cadore, just before the village, on your right you will see a huge wall of rock. It is the west side of the Sorapiss group, whose main summit is hidden. 
The entire wall visible culminates in the "Croda Marcora", the third highest peak of the group. View from other side is inconspicuous, and easily confused with towers and pinnacles that surround it. 

It can be easily climbed by the normal route with the Sorapiss main summit from the SE side. Of which, however, has a wider view from the top. 
The top is composed of a rocky ridge with easy approach for gravel steps, but when facing the SW side, you will see an abyss of 2000m! As few in the alps. Good place for basejumpers! The show is stunning. The roofs of the houses of Cortina, as seen from the window of an airplane. 

Croda Marcora
Croda Marcora from San Vito di Cadore

The Croda Marcora branches off to the NW with a long rocky ridge to the Punta Nera 2847m. Easily accessible from the cableways of "Faloria". While in the NE branch, there is a peak called Fopa di Mattia 3155m, just a meter higher, but not very important.

More or less at a height of 2500, the SW wall is crossed by a dizzying ledge, called "cengia del Banco", wherefrom passes the "Via Ferrata Berti". On its south side, the Croda Marcora, form a rocky outcrop of 450m, and at the base is placed a cozy bivouac called "Slataper" 2600m.

A few meters from the bivouac (forcella del Bivacco 2670m), you can look down from a natural balcony to the valley and, during the sunset, see the sun illuminating the tops of Antelao and Croda Marcora, while the valley is already in the darkness.

Croda Marcora and Monte Antelao
Croda Marcora seen from Cortina.

Getting There

The Sorapiss group is almost complitely surrounded by roads an valleys, so there are more the one option.
Numerous routes to get there. Here the routes that take to the biavouac Slataper and the "normal route":

To and from Auronzo di Cadore (valle d'Ansiei) 864m:

By car:
Milano or Venice A4 - Belluno A27 - Longarone - Auronzo di Cadore
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Sesto - Passo di Monte Croce Comelico - Auronzo di Cadore
Cortina d'Ampezzo - Passo tre Croci - Auronzo di cadore

From val d'Ansiei - path 227 (sentiero "Osiride Brovedani") - biavouac Comici - path 247 - bivouac Slataper
From val d'Ansiei - path 217 - refuge Vandelli - path 215 - ferrata "Berti" - bivouac Slataper

To and from Cortina d'Ampezzo 1211m:

By car:
Milano or Venice A4 - Belluno A27 - Pieve di Cadore - Cortina - passo 3 Croci
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Cortina - Passo 3 Croci
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Misurina - Passo 3 Croci

From Passo 3 Croci - path 215 - refuge Vandelli - path 215 - ferrata "Berti" - bivouac Slataper
From Cortina - cablecar to Faloria 2123m - path 215 - ferrata "Berti" - bivouac Slataper

To and from San Vito di Cadore 1010m:

By car:
Milano or Venice A4 - Belluno A27 - Pieve di Cadore - San Vito di Cadore
Bressanone - Dobbiaco - Cortina - San Vito di Cadore

Cable car (or by car) to refuge Scotter 1580m - path 226 - refuge San Marco - path 226 - bivouac Slataper
From Chiappuzza (San Vito) - path 225 - refuge San Marco - path 226 - bivouac Slataper

Croda Marcora
The summit

Routes overview

Croda Marcora
Croda Marcora SE spur seen from Passo del Bivacco 2670m

Normal route:

The normal route has half way in common with the normal route to Sorapiss.

From bivouac Slataper goes up through the scree of the "Fond de Rusecco" and leading to the attack under yellow rocks. Climb up on a first ledge and then on a second, than follow it  to the left (more or less 100m). 
Go up in a chimney of 15m, with a smooth wall to the right and up a boulder wedged (a passage of III, anchor for rappel). Few meters above takes another ledge to the left to follow 40m, then climb straight up the steep rocks but easy on the right of a large scree often with snow, Giaron Alto.
Here the junction for the Sorapiss. Keep going along the ledge that traverse the SE flank of the mountain to west direction. At the end of the ledge, there are 100 meters of steep gravel path, that takes to another ledge that permit to link again the route to Sorapiss. Point directly to the summit (Croda Marcora), with easy passages of I/I+. After that there is a small snow slope (size dependig of the season). The slope takes to a ridge where the cross of the top is placed. (350m - diff. I/II a passage of III)

Other routes:

From northwest - F.Lacedelli - 02/09/1864 - diff. II 
From west wall - Hemery/G.Pampanin - 1909 - 750m - diff. II
From southwest wall - S.Casara/F.Stefani/G.Cabianca - 19/08/1928 - 750m - diff. IV/V
From southwest wall (via diretta) - A.Dimai/A.Verzi - 03/09/1931 - 750m - diff. V/VI
From southeast spur - I.Dibona/L.Apollonio/G.Barbaria - september 1933 - 750m - diff. IV
From southwest wall (via direttissima) - M.Bonafede/N.Menegus/P.Nessi - 24-25/08/1962 - 750m - diff. IV to VI

Refuges and bivouacs

Refuge "Alfonso Vandelli" 1926m:
Croda Marcora
Biv. Slataper and the Costa Belprà in the background (Marmarole)
Open: 20/06 to 20/09 
Telephone: +39 043539015 
Keeper: Sabrina Pais De Libera
Mobile phone: +39 0435 400547 
Owner: CAI sez. di Venezia
Telephone: +39 041 716900 
Website: www.caivenezia.it/ Link Vai al sito web 
Places: 60 
Winter: 6 

Refuge "San Marco" 1823m:

Open:  20/06 to 20/09 
Telephone: +39 0436 9444 
Keeper: Iva Danelon
Mobile phone: +39 0436 9718 
Owner: CAI sez. di Venezia tel. +39 041 716900 
Website: www.caivenezia.it Link Vai al sito web 
Email: send email 
Places: 37 
Winter: 9

Croda Marcora
The refuge San Marco

Bivouac "Scipio Slataper" 2600m:

Open: permanently
Owner: CAI sez. XXX settembre Trieste
Places: 9  Warning! only 3 beds at disposal actually. No water source around