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Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval
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Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval

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Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.47354°N / 12.07931°E

Object Title: Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval

County: Veneto

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer, Fall

Elevation: 8717 ft / 2657 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Jul 13, 2014 / Sep 30, 2014

Object ID: 904643

Hits: 730 

Page Score: 90.13%  - 31 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Eastern Alps > Dolomites > Lastoni di Formin > Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval






Punta Lastoi or Spitz de Mondeval m. 2657



Punta dei Lastoi m. 2657, also called Spitz de Mondeval, is the culminating peak of the amazing massif of Lastoni di Formin, located between the Croda da Lago-Cernera Group and Passo Giau, one of the highest road pass of the Dolomites. It shows a stunning South oriented face, emerging in the Southern sector of Lastoni di Formin: a wonderful and steep wall of high quality yellow and black “dolomia, starting from Forcella Giau and overlooking the amazing meadows of Mondeval. Different trad and modern routes run side by side along this wall, quite deserving a visit in reason of their exposition, the quality of the rock and the spectacular wide views over the Pelmo Group and the others breathtaking surrounding peaks.


Looking West from Passo Giau
Looking West from Passo Giau at sunset


Lastoni di Formin and Spitz de Mondeval on the right
Lastoni di Formin and Spitz de Mondeval on the right

Getting There

The starting point to climb Punta Lastoi is Passo Giau m. 2236, one of the highest pass of the Dolomites, located 16 km. to Cortina d’Ampezzo, the main resort in this area and can be approached from Trento, Bolzano or Belluno.

Road access to Passo Giau m. 2236

- From Trento and Verona: take the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Ora-Egna, then follow the road to Val di Fiemme and Val di Fassa, pass Cavalese and Predazzo; in Moena leave the main road and turn to right, following the Val di S. Pellegrino road to Falcade and Cencenighe Agordino. Here turn to left following the road to Alleghe, Caprile, Selva di Cadore, Passo Giau.

Giau road at sunset
The road to Passo Giau in a summer sunset
Nice wooden chapel on Passo Giau
Wooden chapel on Passo Giau
Forcella Giau
Forcella Giau


- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Motorway towards North, exit Ponte Gardena and then follow the Val Gardena road to Selva di Val Gardena and Passo Gardena, reaching Corvara and La Villa. Turn to right towards Passo Falzarego, get the pass and here descent towards left along the road SS48 towards Cortina d’Ampezzo as far as Pocol. In Pocol turn to right and follow the road to Passo Giau (signpost).

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 towards North reaching Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; from Pieve the SS51 turns to left, getting to San Vito di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. Take the road SS48 to Falzarego Pass and in Pocol turn to left (signpost Passo Giau), following the Road SP638 to Passo Giau (16 km. from Cortina).

Punta Lastoi approach path and Gusela in the background
Approach path and Gusela
Fall dressing Forcella Col Piombin
Fall dressing Forcella Col Piombin"


Walking access to Punta Lastoi

From the little Chapel of S. Giovanni Guadalberto on Passo Giau m. 2236 (parking) follow the path n. 436 to Forcella Zonia and Forcella Col Piombin; after a traverse and a short descent the path rises to Forcella Giau m. 2360. Leave the main well worn path, descending to the amazing basin of Mondeval, and take on the left a narrow track mainly horizontal, skirting the close South faces of Punta dei Lastoi to the various starting points of the routes. (1 hour from Passo Giau).

Pelmo Group from Alpe di Mondeval
Alpe di Mondeval and Pelmo

Punta Lastoi main routes

Punta Lastoi main routes overview from left to right

Starting point of the routes: from the lowest point of the tower, skirt the rocks towards right getting to the various starts.

Punta Lastoi or Spiz de Mondeval
Punta Lastoi or Spiz de Mondeval
Black-yellow wall on Via del Diedro Nero
Via del Diedro Nero (Black Dihedral)
Black wall on Via del Diedro Nero, Punta Lastoi
Black wall on Via del Diedro Nero



- Via Hoi-Nau on Left Spur V+, VI (A0) 315 m. Trad route - First ascent: K. Hoi, H. Nau 1985

- Via Re Artù 6b max, 300 m – Modern route - First ascent: Mario Dibona and co.

- Love my dogs 7a max, 6b obbl., 300 m - Modern route - First ascent: Mario Dibona e Gretchen Alexander, 2005

- Via del Diedro Nero (Black Dihedral) V+, VI (A0) 270 m. Trad route - First ascent: K. Hoi, H. Nau 1985

- Via Scoiattoli VI-, VI+ (A0) 340 m. Trad route - M. Alverà, P. Pompanin, C. Menardi 1977

Croda da Lago Group seen from Spiz de Mondeval summit
The Croda da Lago Group and the summit tableland


Descent from Punta dei Lastoi

There are two ways to come back:

- the shortest one is rapping (3 x 25 meters) within a large gully just on the right of the summit cairn, getting soon to the various starting points of the climbing routes

- a longer way is walking on the normal route of Lastoni di Formin, a nice hike across the karst tableland to the Forcella Rossa, where a path descents to the Alpe di Mondeval and rises to Forcella Giau

Useful info: the trad routes' grades are expressed in the UIAA scale, the modern ones in French scale

Red Tape

No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside the Unesco World Heritage natural sites list and requires the best care and respect.

Tofana from the summit of Punta Lastoi
Tofana seen from the summit
Pelmo and Pelmetto from the descent chimney
Pelmo and Pelmetto from the descent chimney
Summit view over Antelao and Becco di Mezzodì
Summit view over Antelao and Becco di Mezzodì

When to Climb

Best season goes from June to the end of September

Where to stay

- Passo Giau Hut m. 2236
RIFUGIO PASSO GIAU

- Several other possibilities in Cortina d’Ampezzo and surroundings

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Lastoni di Formin map
 




Guidebooks

“IV grado e più – Dolomiti Orientali 2” by Emiliano Zorzi – Luca Brigo – Carlo Piovan Idea Montagna Ed.

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi, Ed. Athesia

“Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI


Maps

Tabacco sheet 03 – Cortina e Dolomiti Ampezzane 1:25.000

Kompass sheet 55 - Cortina d'Ampezzo 1:50.000

Images