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Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
|---|---|
Lat/Lon:
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39.01566°N / 111.78739°W |
County:
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Sevier |
Activities:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring |
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Elevation:
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5600 ft / 1707 m |
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Overview
A new sport crag created in 2017-2018 by a local, rural family physician desperate for a place to rock climb. The rock is mostly limestone except for Mini Maple Wall, which is similar to Maple Canyon cobblestone. Most routes are fairly moderate and short, so great for beginners.
Getting There
Drive to Willow Creek Road approximately 3.5 miles North of Salina, Utah. After 2.5 miles along the dirt road, the crag is scattered to the north and south of the dry creek bed.
Routes
This list will be updated as more climbs are established at the crag.
| Climb | Area | Grade | Length | Type | Anchors | |
| 1 | Bouncy Castle | Twist Buttress - Toddler Wall | 5.6 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 3 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 2 | Boots | Twist Buttress - Toddler Wall | 5.8 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 3 | Bears Ears | Twist Buttress - Toddler Wall | 5.10 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 4 | Sour Strawberries | Twist Buttress - Toddler Wall | 5.11 | 11 m | Sport/TR | 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 5 | Training Wheels | Twist Buttress - Toddler Wall | 5.3 | 12 m | TR | 2-bolt anchor |
| 6 | Bungalow Boogie | South Ridge – First Wall | 5.11 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 7 | Broken Nail | South Ridge – First Wall | 5.11+ | 10 m | TR | 2-bolt anchor |
| 8 | Choo Choo Butt | North Ridge – Garulean Wall | 5.8 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 9 | State of My Bunion | North Ridge – Garulean Wall | 5.9 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 10 | Sassysquatch | North Ridge – Garulean Wall | 5.9 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 11 | Codifirus | North Ridge – Garulean Wall | 5.10 | 13 m | Sport/TR | 7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 12 | Jeffrika | North Ridge – Garulean Wall | 5.10 | 13 m | Sport/TR | 7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 13 | G-Force | North Ridge – Garulean Wall | 5.10 | 13 m | Sport/TR | 7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 14 | Obstruction of Justice | North Ridge – Collusion Wall | 5.10 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 4 bolts to 2-bolt Anchor |
| 15 | Election Meddling | North Ridge – Collusion Wall | 5.9 | 10 m | Sport/TR | 4 bolts to 2-bolt Anchor |
| 16 | Moby Dick | North Ridge – Tall Tales Wall | 5.10+ | 11 m | Sport/TR | 7 bolts to 2-bolt Anchor |
| 17 | Call Me Ishmael | North Ridge – Tall Tales Wall | 5.10 | 11 m | Sport/TR | 8 bolts to 2-bolt Anchor |
| 18 | Captain Ahab | North Ridge – Tall Tales Wall | 5.11+ | 12 m | Sport/TR | 9 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 19 | John Henry | North Ridge – Tall Tales Wall | 5.10 | 15 m | Sport | 9 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 20 | Pecos Bill | North Ridge – Tall Tales Wall | 5.10 | 14 m | Sport | 9 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
| 21 | Babe | North Ridge – Tall Tales Wall | 5.10 | 15 m | Sport | 10 bolts to 2-bolt anchor |
Red Tape
The crag is completely on BLM land.
Collusion Wall should be avoided between April and August due to raptor nesting.
Rattlesnakes and scorpions have been seen at the crag.
When to Climb
Possible year-round depending on local snow accumulation. All walls are East-facing except for Mini Maple Wall so summer climbing would be best done in the evening.
Camping
There is a lot of open land that would suffice for primitive camping in the immediate vicinity but there are nicer places to camp further East up Willow Creek Canyon.
External Links
Search for #redmondrockcrag for additional pictures and beta.