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Ridge Morarului

Ridge Morarului

Ridge Morarului

Page Type: Route

Location: Brasov, Romania, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.44400°N / 25.45500°E

Object Title: Ridge Morarului

Route Type: Easy climbing ( UIAA III)

Time Required: Half a day

Difficulty: PD+ / AD-

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes


Page By: cristakhe

Created/Edited: May 6, 2005 / Jun 17, 2008

Object ID: 164948

Hits: 2794 

Page Score: 70.36%  - 1 Votes 

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From the city Busteni you will go by the road to Hotel Gura Diham (5 km, 1 hour). Here you will cross the river and will find an unmarked path that will lead to a small hut (1 hour). From this hut you will have an marked path (red) and you will follow this path to the right. After 10 min. you will reach the valley Bujorilor (PD, 2,5 hours) to the left side of the path. Follow this valley and at the top you will reach the starting point of Ridge Morarului.

Route Description

From the starting point of the ridge you will cross an 50m knife ridge. After this you will climb an easy gendarme (Big gendarme) and from the top you will follow the small ridge for 100m (belaying points) . At the end of the ridge you will find some pitons for belaying. From the sadle (first sadle) you have in front of you the second gendarme (Red gendarme) and you have 2 possibility: 1. to go round by left side until you will reach the next sadle; 2. to climb this gendarme ( UIAA III, 3 belaying points) and descend to the next sadle.
From this sadle (second sadle) you have in front of you the third gendarme. This gendarme (Cross gendarme) is climbed by a small crack for 5m and then by a ridge (15m, UIAA III, 6-7 belaying points ) you will reach the top. From the top descent to the next sadle (third sadle). From this sadle you have in front the next gendarme (Upper gendarme). This one it`s climbed by the left side by a path with grass ( 3 belaying points).From the top of this gendarme you will follow an very easy climbing ridge for 1 hour and you will reach peak Omu. At peak Omu you will find an Hut and the meteo station.
In winter this is a very beautiful route but it`s classified D.

Essential Gear

- rope
- 3 pitons
- 5-7 quickdraws, carabiners


Acul Mare (Big Needle) ridge from Acele Morarului (Morar Needles)- Bucegi mountains 1Acul Mare (Big Needle) ridge from Acele Morarului (Morar Needles) - Bucegi mountains 2Acele (Colţii) Morarului  (Morar Needles)From Morar NeedlesFrom Morar slopes ( from Brana Mare a Morarului)Just me View from Morar Needles
The way to the Morar Needles from the Omu peak.View from Brana de MijlocCross Needle (Morar Needles)Cross NeedleAnother one with this wall from Red FingerThe Ridge of the Big NeedleTeams on Red Finger. Second plan Cross Needle and back Needle Up
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