ApproachFrom the city Busteni you will go by the road to Hotel Gura Diham (5 km, 1 hour). Here you will cross the river and will find an unmarked path that will lead to a small hut (1 hour). From this hut you will have an marked path (red) and you will follow this path to the right. After 10 min. you will reach the valley Bujorilor (PD, 2,5 hours) to the left side of the path. Follow this valley and at the top you will reach the starting point of Ridge Morarului.
Route DescriptionFrom the starting point of the ridge you will cross an 50m knife ridge. After this you will climb an easy gendarme (Big gendarme) and from the top you will follow the small ridge for 100m (belaying points) . At the end of the ridge you will find some pitons for belaying. From the sadle (first sadle) you have in front of you the second gendarme (Red gendarme) and you have 2 possibility: 1. to go round by left side until you will reach the next sadle; 2. to climb this gendarme ( UIAA III, 3 belaying points) and descend to the next sadle.
From this sadle (second sadle) you have in front of you the third gendarme. This gendarme (Cross gendarme) is climbed by a small crack for 5m and then by a ridge (15m, UIAA III, 6-7 belaying points ) you will reach the top. From the top descent to the next sadle (third sadle). From this sadle you have in front the next gendarme (Upper gendarme). This one it`s climbed by the left side by a path with grass ( 3 belaying points).From the top of this gendarme you will follow an very easy climbing ridge for 1 hour and you will reach peak Omu. At peak Omu you will find an Hut and the meteo station.
In winter this is a very beautiful route but it`s classified D.
Essential Gear- rope
- 3 pitons
- 5-7 quickdraws, carabiners