Approach
You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.
You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Cittą di Mantova (350 hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.
Route Description
From Rif. Gnifetti you cross Lysglacier and ascent to the Lys pass, 4248m.
From here you turn to the NW and the to W and start walking to the Lyskamm. First a slope is not very steep and you get on. Then the slope becomes a ridge and you must be carfeul because the ridge has a lot of cornices but technically is not very hard.
It takes 4 to 5 hours, if the conditions are good. Because of the cornices you often have to move in the steep NE-flank.
From the east summit you can continue to the west summit or you descend by the same route.
Essential Gear
Rope, helmet, ice pick, crampons.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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Monte Rosa group
