| Tale Of Two Shitties Route |
Contribute  Loading...
Geography Parents Loading... Routes
| Tale Of Two Shitties   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Oregon, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 44.36690°N / 121.1466°W Route Type: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter Time Required: Less than two hours Rock Difficulty: 5.10a (YDS) Difficulty: 5.10a Number of Pitches: 3 Grade: II
| Route Quality: | | | | Loading...
| Page By: rpc Created/Edited: Sep 13, 2005 / Apr 17, 2009 Object ID: 166744 Hits: 1330 Loading... Page Score: 88.12% - 9 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Approach
Follow the directions on the main page to reach the base of Mesa Verde Wall. The route starts 20 feet right of a huge block leaning against the base of the wall (route starts immediately right of the start of Sundown) near the "prow" separating the northwest and southwest faces of The Wall.
Route Description
Tale Of Two Shitties climbs to the same ledge system (at 3/4ths height) as Trezlar (right side of the ledges whereas Trezlar reaches the left side) in three fun pitches.
Pitch 1: 5.7, 70 feet. Climb up a shallow, left facing dihedral. Overcome a few bulges above (watch for some loose rock here) and belay at the base of a prominent, right-facing dihedral in nice clean rock (gear belay, semi-hanging).
Pitch 2: 5.10a, 60 feet. Climb up the clean dihedral. Going starts out easy (5.8-ish hands) and gets progressively harder higher up as the crack turns to fingers. Exit the dihedral near its top and traverse right and up through a bulge using the nice finger/hand crack (5.10a). Belay on a nice ledge with bolts.
Pitch 3: 5.9, 50 feet. Move left and climb a shallow, right-facing dihedral past two bolts (balancy face moves). There is some runout above the second bolt but the going eases quickly. Belay on the huge ledge from a bolted anchor.
Descent: See photo below. Do a single rope rap from bolted anchors back to top of pitch 2. Do a double rope rap directly to the ground. Alternatively, you could probably scramble left along the ledge system to reach top of Trezlar (class 4?) and follow descent directions given for that route.Essential Gear
Set of nuts. Cams from green Alien to #3 Camalot (doubles in red Alien to #2 Camalot useful). Possibly extra finger to tight hands pieces.
Miscellaneous InfoIf you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
|
|
