Folding Curtain

General Overview

This easily accessible ice climb forms regularly, and given that it faces north has a reasonably long season.

The lower pitch forms with great variability. It can be an easy ice step to get to the upper pitch or it can form as a very thin and mix line with very little pro. It can be bypassed to the climber's left.

The upper pitch usually forms to the top and presents about 25 metres of grade three ice. There is usually a steep step at the top to keep you on your toes.

Getting There

Travelling from Hinton to Jasper continue on highway 16 for about 20 km (about 20 minutes). You will come to the Folding Mountain Village on your left. As you turn left into the village park immediately to your right near the highway. At this point the climb is usually visible along the north facing wall behind the village.

Google Map From Hinton

Approach

An access road is visible that works its way down and then back left towards the climb. Follow this road for 5-10 minutes to a capped a small square clearance lease off to your right.

Head straight across this lease and into the bush on a poorly defined path following along the base of the steep slope below the cliff band. Follow this for 5-10 minutes and watch for an indestinct drainage coming down from the cliff band above. The ice is barely visible from below.

Work your way up the steep slope below the cliff band (5-10 minutes), usually easiest to the climber's right, to the base of the first step.

Route Description

Pitch 1: From the rope up area to the right of the falls work your way over to the base of the first short step. As mentioned previously, this pitch can present with no ice or as an easy grade 2 step. It can be bypassed to the climber's left along the cliff band. Above this step you continue up very low angle ice steps to a birch tree at the base of the upper pitch.

Pitch 2: The upper pitch is quite straight forward grade 3 ice. The ice quality can vary from plastic to brittle and unconsolidated. There are a variety of lines at the base that all converge towards the top with a short steep step that tops you out at a tree belay.

Descent

You can walk off to the climber's right through the trees. It is a little confusing, but will likely save you time and rope hassles.

You can also rap the route off of trees.

Essential Gear

Regular ice rack. Make sure to pack some short and long screws just in case.

External Links

There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:

Gravsports-Ice

and

Live The Vision - Ice Conditions.

Images

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