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Sforniòi
Mountain/Rock

Sforniòi

 
Sforniòi

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.34930°N / 12.26744°E

Object Title: Sforniòi

County: Dolomiti Bellunesi

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7956 ft / 2425 m

 

Page By: andrea.it

Created/Edited: Sep 29, 2013 / Jul 21, 2014

Object ID: 869647

Hits: 473 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview

Towards west, above the "Val di Bosconero", the large rock walls of the "Sforniòi" culminating in three peaks unfold fan out and forming a sort of amphitheater, whose steps are marked by long arched series of ledges, ranging, while vertically furrowed by gullies and chimneys.

A deep fork is deeply engraved in the middle: "forcella dantre di Sforniòi" that divides two large rock masses: the "Sforniòi sud 2409m" (south) and the "Sforniòi di mezzo 2425m" (middle). In the opposite north side, there is placed the: "Sforniòi nord 2410m", that with a long ridge descends towards NW to the "forcella Ciavazòle".


Sforniòi
Sforniòi seen from Sasso di Bosconero


The north and the middle peaks are separated by a jagged ridge characterized by two nice rocky pinnacles called: "i Pupe".
The Sforniòi north is the connecting node between the two main parts of the main chain of the Bosconero group; the NS and EW branches that culminates with the Sasso Lungo Cibiana.

The name "Sforniòi" was used in the past only to call the side of the mountain above the pastures of the "passo Cibiana" while the rest of the mountain was called "Crode of Bosconero".
Today this name applies to the whole mountain between: "forcella Ciavazòle", "forcella dei Matt" and "forcella piccola di Sforniòi".

The three peaks of Sforniòi were already climbed in the past by ancient hunters, thanks to the convenient access from passo Cibiana, they could easily get to the base of the Sforniòi nord. From here following paths that only they knew (Viàz), they could reach the forcella dei Matt and the east and west sides of the Bosconero group.

Sforniòi
From the summit of Sforniòi nord to the group of Bosconero


Getting There

The group is located into the “Dolomiti di Zoldo” region. For who came from “Pianura Padana”, the fastest way is reach the village of "Longarone". Not far from the city of "Belluno".

Sforniòi
Signals

The Sforniòi is placed in the north part of the group. It overhangs the valleys "Bosconero", "Campestrin" and the "passo Cibiana" 1530.
The first is reachable from the village of "Zoldo". The second is reachable from the village of "Ospitale di Cadore". Both places aren't far from "Longarone".
The best chice is start from the passo Cibiana, which is the highest and the most confortabel. Easy acces to "forcella Ciavazòles" and Forcella piccola di Sforniòi".
Passo Cibiana is reachable by the road between "Venas di Cadore" and "Forno di Zoldo".



From Turin or Milan or Venice: motorway A4 - Mestre - motorway A27.

Otherwise, reach the village of "Zoldo". It isn't the easiest way but very panoramic.

From "Feltre" or "Belluno": road n.203 – Agordo – Passo Duran – Zoldo.


By plane
The nearest international airports are "Treviso", used for many low-cost flights, and "Venice" "Marco Polo".

By train
The nearest railway station is Longarone; Belluno station can also be used as the DolomitiBus service leaves from there for Longarone/Pecol.

By bus
Various buses of the DolomitiBus service leave from the Belluno bus station (opposite the railway station) and reach Val Zoldana in approx. 1hour.
Sforniòi
The summits of Sforniòi "nord" and "di mezzo".

Tourist Office/Ufficio Turistico Provinciale di Zoldo Alto
Viale Dolomiti, 4
32010 Zoldo Alto (BL) 
Tel. 0437 789145
Fax 0437 788878
www.infodolomiti.it
zoldoalto@infodolomiti.it

Route

Sforniòi
The characteristic "Pupe"
Sforniòi
The summit of Sforniòi nord
Sforniòi Nord 2410m

From forcella Ciavazòle and NO ridge (normal route)
Lothar Patera 28/08/1900 - 400m - diff. I
From north
Pietro Sommavilla-F.Daglioni Majer-Giovanni Angelini  15/09/1966 - 400m - diff.  I/II
From northeast (forcella Piccola)
Giovanni Angelini-Antonio Rostagni  14/08/1946 - 300m - diff. II
From forcella dantre Sforniòi
Giovanni Angelini-Angelo Pasqualin  17/07/1943 - 350m - diff. III
From west (via Sperti/Angelini)
Silvio Sperti-Giovanni Angelini  15/08/1924 - 400m - diff. III
From southwest
G. Pierazzo-P. Calmasini-P. Gubbati   03/08/1969 - 600m - diff. IV+/V-


Sforniòi di Mezzo 2425m

From northwest (normal route)
Lothar Patera  28/08/1900 - 450m - diff. I/II
From east
P & F Bonetti-Paolo Lazzarin  03/08/1975 - 500m - diff. III/IV
Southeast spur
Pietro Sommavilla-Corrado Angelini  05/08/1964 - 450m - diff. III/IV
Southeast pillar
Soro Dorotei-Giovanni Gianeselli-Tiziano Sovilla   july 1979 - 450m - diff. V/V+/A1
From south (forcella dantre Sforniòi)
Pietro Sommavilla-Renato Mosena   june 1974 - 150m - diff. III


Sforniòi sud 2409m

From south (forcella dei Matt)
Guido Ceradini-Rinaldo Pasqualin  07/09/1875 - 350m - diff. II
From west
Giovanni Angelini-Giuseppe Tommasi  22/07/1925 - 500m - diff. II/III
From west (2)
Pietro Sommavilla-Corrado Angelini  30/07/1964 - 500m - diff. III/IV
From noertwest
Alessandro Masucci-Roberto Franceschetti  30/07/1964 - 500m - diff. III/IV
From north (forcella dantre Sforniòi)
Pietro Sommavilla-Giovanni Gianeselli-Renato Mosena  29/06/1975 - 150m - diff. II
From east
Pietro Sommavilla-Andrea Angelini  august 1965 - 500m - diff. IV/IV+

  

Refuges and huts

Camping is permitted in the whole Bosconero group and it doesn't require any red tape.


The refuge Bosconero
The refuge "Bosconero"

Casera di Bosconero 1457m

Open from: 20/06 - 20/09 
Telephone: +39 0437 787346 
Keeper: Monica Bagatin tel. +39 0437 787664 
Property: CAI sez. Valzoldana tel. +39 0437 78100 
Places: 28 winter 4 
From lake of Pontesei 858m, path 485, 2 hours E
From Passo Cibiana, path 485, 2 hours EE









The casera Campestrin
The casera "Campestrin"

Casera Campestrin 1649m

Open from: permanenly 
Telephone: none 
Keeper: none
Property: CAI sez. San Donà di Piave
Places: 12
From Passo Cibiana, path 483, 2 hours EE
From Ospitale di Cadore, path 483, 3,30 hours E

Guidebooks

Guidebooks
Guidebooks












"Pelmo e Dolomiti di Zoldo" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - G.Angelini & P.Sommavilla - (the book wherefrom I've got the informations for this page) - 1983

"Il Bosconero" - Tamara edizioni montagna - De Zordo Vittorio

"La Val di Zoldo" - Cierre edizioni - Bonetti Paolo/Lazzarin Paolo - 2009 Guidebooks

Images

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