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Sasso di Toanella

 
Sasso di Toanella

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.33330°N / 12.26641°E

Object Title: Sasso di Toanella

County: Dolomiti di Zoldo

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7972 ft / 2430 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Jul 6, 2012 / Sep 17, 2017

Object ID: 798954

Hits: 2311 

Page Score: 81.84%  - 14 Votes 

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Overview

What's New on this Page?

* Jul 28, 2017 - Ownership switched by andrea
* Jul 31, 2017 - Page under review


One of the finest peak of the Bosconero group and the second in height is Sasso di Toanella. It’s hidden between "Sasso di Bosconero" and "Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero". For people who goes up to the “Forcella Toanella”, it appears suddenly as a huge tower with a typical dolomite shape.

The walls are vertical on all sides, and only the homonymous notch permit an higher access to the walls.
From here start its normal route that goes up through the few smooth rocky passages on the east side. Otherwise the peak could be visible towering among the neighbour peaks, only from far or from south.

The northeast side
Sasso di Toanella NE side - ph. andrea
View from Sasso di Bosconero
Sasso di Toanella seen from Sasso di Bosconero - ph. andrea


"Sasso di Toanella" has attracted many explorers in the past and after climbers, due to its fascinating appearance. The quality of the rock is also very good in every part.
The summit was climbed for the first time in the july 21st 1893, from the dutch lady Jeanne Immink, with the guides Sepp Innerkofler and Pietro Dimai. Thinking it was unnamed, she gave to the peak the name “Campanile Innerkofler” dedicated to her young guide.
Only during the 1912, after the second ascent, Antonio Berti gave it the original and local name “Sasso di Toanella”.

From left:
From left: Sasso di Toanella and Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero seen from Sasso di Bosconero - ph. andrea

From left:
From left: Sasso di Bosconero, Sasso di Toanella, Rocchetta Alta seen from Forcella Ciavazoles -ph. andrea



The structure of the mountain extends towards Southeast with some spires. The are called: “Diti di Toanella”, “Castelletto di Toanella” 2251m and “Croda della Spionèra” 2200m.

The climbing routes are numerous, and among the finest we have: the Route of the ledge on the West wall, the North wall and along the east cleft.

Getting There

The group is located inside the “Dolomiti di Zoldo” region. For people coming from “Po Valley”, the fastest way to approach is reachung the village of "Longarone". Not far from the city of "Belluno". Another way to approach is reaching Zoldo: from "Feltre" or "Belluno": road n.203 – AgordoPasso DuranZoldo.

Sasso di Toanella is placed in the south side of the group. It overhangs the "valle di Tovanella". But from this side starting from the village of "Termine di Cadore" the approach would be very long and unconfortable (2000 meters drop!). The best choice is come up from the valley of Zoldo and have a break at the refuge Bosconero.

The group
The Bosconero Group seen from South


From Turin or Milan or Venice: motorway A4 - Mestre - motorway A27.

By plane
The nearest international airports are "Treviso", used for many low-cost flights, and "Venice" "Marco Polo".

By train
The nearest railway station is Longarone; Belluno station can also be used as the DolomitiBus service leaves from there for Longarone/Pecol.

By bus
Various buses of the DolomitiBus service leave from the Belluno bus station (opposite the railway station) and reach Val Zoldana in approx. 1hour.

The routes

 
Routes on the NNE side
 
 
Routes on the east side
 






 

 

 

Yellow line: The east cleft route
Green line: "Via del Camino Alto"
Red line: The north wall
Blue line: "Via degli Scoiattoli"


From east: (via originaria) – J.Immink/S.Innerkofler/P.Dimai – 21/07/1893 – 270m – II°/III°

From southeast: (normal route) – M.G.Carugati/A.Berti/L.Tarra/O.Nicoli – 10/07/1912 – 350m - I°/II°

From “forcella di Rocchetta Alta”: V.Angelini/S.Sperti – 26/08/1923 – 250m - II°/III°

From west side: S.Sperti/V.Angelini – 23/07/1925 – nice itinerary on ledges - 450m – IV°

From west side: (via diretta) – C.Pinelli/G.del Campo – 25/07/1964 – very fine route in wild environment – 400m – V° A1

Northwest pillar: (via degli Scoiattoli) – L.de Pozzo/D.Valleferro/S.Lorenzi/S.Pompanin – 01/07/1968 – the hardest route - 400m – VI°/VI°+

North wall: G.Da Damos/P.Sommavilla – 16/08/1964 – probably the finest, very good rock – 400m – IV°/V° passages of VI°

East cleft: G.Da Damos/G.Gianeselli/P.Sommavilla – 30/08/1964 – very fine route, very good rock – 250m – IV°/V°

From east: (via del Camino Alto) – G.Pierazzo/V.Pasqualetto/C.Calamelli/G.Jannuzzi/V.Cicchiello – 07/08/1966 – 250m – IV°/V°

From southeast: (via a Spirale) – P.Sommavilla/T.Sovilla – 18/07/1982 – 300m – IV°+

Southeast pillar: T.Sovilla/P.Sommavilla/I.Ducapa – 21/08/1981 – 200m – V°+ A1

Southeast couloirs: T.Sovilla/P.Sommavilla/C.Angelini/I.Ducapa – 20/08/1981 – 200m – IV°

Red Tape

No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside the Unesco World Heritage natural sites list and requires the best care and respect.

More info about Dolomites Unesco Heritage on SP: Dolomites, living mountains.

Huts

 
The refuge  Bosconero
Casera di Bosconero


Casera di Bosconero 1457m


Open from: 20/06 - 20/09
Telephone: +393383713870
Keeper: Monica Bagatin tel. +393383713870
Property: CAI sez. Valzoldana tel. +39 0437 78100
Places: 28 winter 4


From lake of Pontesei 858 m, path 485, 2 hours E
From Passo Cibiana, path 485, 2 hours EE

When to climb

Best period goes from middle June to the end of September

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Bosconero Group map
 


 
Guidebooks
 




"Pelmo e Dolomiti di Zoldo" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - G.Angelini & P.Sommavilla - 1983

"Il Bosconero" - Tamari edizioni montagna - De Zordo Vittorio

"La Val di Zoldo" - Cierre edizioni - Bonetti Paolo/Lazzarin Paolo - 2009

Additional info

Tourist Office/Ufficio Turistico Provinciale di Zoldo Alto
Viale Dolomiti, 4
32010 Zoldo Alto (BL)
Tel. 0437 789145
Fax 0437 788878
www.infodolomiti.it
zoldoalto@infodolomiti.it

Images

From left:The northwest side of Rocchetta AltaThe forcella "Toanella"The groupSasso di Toanella and Rocchetta AltaView from Sasso di BosconeroThe west side of Rocchetta Alta
From left:The lake of PonteseiBosconero Group mapThe way to "Forcella Toanella"The northeast sideThe north sideRoutes on the east side
[ View Gallery - 1 More Images ]