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Sasso di Toanella
Mountain/Rock

Sasso di Toanella

 
Sasso di Toanella

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.33330°N / 12.26641°E

Object Title: Sasso di Toanella

County: Dolomiti di Zoldo

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 7972 ft / 2430 m

 

Page By: andrea.it

Created/Edited: Jul 6, 2012 / Feb 21, 2013

Object ID: 798954

Hits: 1102 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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Overview

The most good looking peak of the Bosconero group and second in height. It’s hidden between the "Sasso di Bosconero" and the "Rocchetta Alta". For who goes up to the “forcella Toanella”, it appears suddenly as a huge tower with typical dolomite shape.

The walls are vertical on all sides, and only the homonymous notch permit an higher access to the walls.
From here start its normal route that goes up through the few smooth rocky passages on the east side. Otherwise the peak could be visible towering among the neighbor peaks, only from far or from south.

View from Sasso di Bosconero
The NNE side


"Sasso di Toanella" has attracted many explorers in the past and after climbers, due to its fascinating appearance. The quality of the rock is also very good in every part.
The summit was climbed for the first time in the july 21st 1893, from the dutch lady Jeanne Immink, with the guides Sepp Innerkofler and Pietro Dimai. Thinking it was unnamed, she gave to the peak the name “Campanile Innerkofler” dedicated to her young guide.
Only during the 1912, after the second ascent, Antonio Berti gave it the original and local name “Sasso di Toanella”.

The structure of the mountain extends towards southeast with some spires. The are called: “Diti di Toanella”, “Castelletto di Toanella” 2251m and “Croda della Spionèra” 2200m.

The northeast side
The north side


The climb routes are numerous, and among the most beautiful can be recommended: the route of the ledge on the west wall, the north wall and along the east cleft.

Getting There

The group is located into the “Dolomiti di Zoldo” region. For who came from “Pianura Padana”, the fastest way is reach the village of "Longarone". Not far from the city of "Belluno".

Sasso di Toanella is placed in the south side of the group. It overhangs the "valle di Tovanella". But from this side starting from the village of "Termine di Cadore" the approach would be very long and unconfortable (2000 meters drop!). The best choice is come up from the valley of Zoldo and have a break at the refuge Bosconero.


From Turin or Milan or Venice: motorway A4 - Mestre - motorway A27.

Otherwise, reach the village of "Zoldo". It isn't the easiest way but very panoramic.

From "Feltre" or "Belluno": road n.203 – AgordoPasso DuranZoldo.


By plane
The nearest international airports are "Treviso", used for many low-cost flights, and "Venice" "Marco Polo".

By train
The nearest railway station is Longarone; Belluno station can also be used as the DolomitiBus service leaves from there for Longarone/Pecol.

By bus
Various buses of the DolomitiBus service leave from the Belluno bus station (opposite the railway station) and reach Val Zoldana in approx. 1hour.

Tourist Office/Ufficio Turistico Provinciale di Zoldo Alto
Viale Dolomiti, 4
32010 Zoldo Alto (BL)
Tel. 0437 789145
Fax 0437 788878
www.infodolomiti.it
zoldoalto@infodolomiti.it

The routes

 
Routes on the NNE side
 
 
Routes on the east side
 































 

 

 

Yellow line: The east cleft route
Green line: "Via del Camino Alto"
Red line: The north wall
Blue line: "Via degli Scoiattoli"


From east: (via originaria) – J.Immink/S.Innerkofler/P.Dimai – 21/07/1893 – 270m – II°/III°

From southeast: (normal route) – M.G.Carugati/A.Berti/L.Tarra/O.Nicoli – 10/07/1912 – 350m - I°/II°

From “forcella di Rocchetta Alta”: V.Angelini/S.Sperti – 26/08/1923 – 250m - II°/III°

From west side: S.Sperti/V.Angelini – 23/07/1925 – nice itinerary on ledges - 450m – IV°

From west side: (via diretta) – C.Pinelli/G.del Campo – 25/07/1964 – very fine route in wild environment – 400m – V° A1

Northwest pillar: (via degli Scoiattoli) – L.de Pozzo/D.Valleferro/S.Lorenzi/S.Pompanin – 01/07/1968 – the hardest route - 400m – VI°/VI°+

North wall: G.Da Damos/P.Sommavilla – 16/08/1964 – probably the finest, very good rock – 400m – IV°/V° passages of VI°

East cleft: G.Da Damos/G.Gianeselli/P.Sommavilla – 30/08/1964 – very fine route, very good rock – 250m – IV°/V°

From east: (via del Camino Alto) – G.Pierazzo/V.Pasqualetto/C.Calamelli/G.Jannuzzi/V.Cicchiello – 07/08/1966 – 250m – IV°/V°

From southeast: (via a Spirale) – P.Sommavilla/T.Sovilla – 18/07/1982 – 300m – IV°+

Southeast pillar: T.Sovilla/P.Sommavilla/I.Ducapa – 21/08/1981 – 200m – V°+ A1

Southeast couloirs: T.Sovilla/P.Sommavilla/C.Angelini/I.Ducapa – 20/08/1981 – 200m – IV°

Huts

 
The refuge  Bosconero
 

Casera di Bosconero 1457m

Open from: 20/06 - 20/09
Telephone: +39 0437 787346
Keeper: Monica Bagatin tel. +39 0437 787664
Property: CAI sez. Valzoldana tel. +39 0437 78100
Places: 28 winter 4
From lake of Pontesei 858m, path 485, 2 hours E
From Passo Cibiana, path 485, 2 hours EE

Guide books

 
Guidebooks
 










"Pelmo e Dolomiti di Zoldo" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - G.Angelini & P.Sommavilla - (the book wherefrom I've got the informations for this page) - 1983

"Il Bosconero" - Tamara edizioni montagna - De Zordo Vittorio

"La Val di Zoldo" - Cierre edizioni - Bonetti Paolo/Lazzarin Paolo - 2009

Images

From left:The northwest side of Rocchetta AltaThe forcella "Toanella"Sasso di Toanella and Rocchetta AltaThe west side of Rocchetta AltaThe lake of PonteseiView from Sasso di Bosconero
The north sideThe way to "Forcella Toanella"From left:The northeast sideRoutes on the east sideRoutes on the NNE side