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Sassolungo di Cibiana

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Sassolungo di Cibiana

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35836°N / 12.28246°E

Object Title: Sassolungo di Cibiana

County: Dolomiti di Zoldo

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Sport Climbing

Elevation: 7917 ft / 2413 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Jun 29, 2012 / Sep 17, 2017

Object ID: 797829

Hits: 2227 

Page Score: 84.82%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

Sassolungo di Cibiana 2413 m



What's New on this Page?

* Jul 28, 2017 - Ownership switched by andrea
* Jul 31, 2017 - Page under review
* Sep 15, 2017 - Page updated


Beautiful summit frequented enough, the Sassolungo di Cibiana is a mountain located in the Zoldo Dolomites and dominates with its vertical North wall the namesake pass, through which it passes the road connecting Val Zoldana and Cibiana, then joining Valle del Boite (Cadore). When observed from Passo Cibiana it appears as a slender and compact rock pyramid, beautiful and inviting. Despite the not very high altitude, it's an excellent viewpoint over the Dolomites summits of the surroundings, especially over the nearby Sfornioi and Sasso di Bosconero, and further in the distance over some giants of the Dolomites, like Antelao and Pelmo.
Not to be confused with the more famous Threethousanders Sassolungo/Langkofel in Valgardena and Sassolungo/Lenkstein in the Vedrette di Ries, Sassolungo di Cibiana is also called "El Cimòn" by the inhabitants of Ospitale di Cadore and "Sasslòngo" by the inhabitants of Cibiana. Very impressive if seen from North when crossing Passo di Cibiana by car.

Sasso lungo di Cibiana
Sassolungo di Cibiana West face from Sforniòi Nord - ph. andrea


Sassolungo is part of the small Bosconero Group and it's the fourth summit in order of height after Sasso di Bosconero 2464 m, Sasso di Toanella 2430 m and Sfornioi di Mezzo 2425 m. It has a pyramid shape with an oustanding rocky wall on the North side above the valley of Cibiana that has made it interesting for climbers.
The wall is the most imposing point of a long ridge made of many pinnacles and peaks with an east-west direction, starting from the summit of Sfornioi Nord and finishing with the Sass de Mezodì.
The South side is a smooth gravelled flank covered of bushes and small trees totally enclosed into the Campestrin valley.

Antelao, the King of the Dolomites, seen from Forcella Bella
Antelao, the King of the Dolomites, seen from Forcella Bella

Clouds slowly covering the Sfornioi Nord
Clouds slowly covering the Sfornioi Nord



Sassolungo di Cibiana has been probably climbed for the first time in the 19th century by local chamois hunters.

The group
Bosconero Group - ph. andrea

Getting There

The group is located into the “Dolomiti di Zoldo” region. For people coming from “Po Valley” the fastest way is reach the village of "Longarone", not far from the city of "Belluno", and in Longarone take on the left the road entering Valle di Zoldo. Another way to reach the Valle di Zoldo is from Feltre and Belluno across Agordo and Passo Duran (road n. 203).

From Turin or Milan or Venice: motorway A4 - Mestre - motorway A27.

By plane
The nearest international airports are "Treviso", used for many low-cost flights, and "Venice" "Marco Polo".

By train
The nearest railway station is Longarone; Belluno station can also be used as the DolomitiBus service leaves from there for Longarone/Pecol.

By bus
Various buses of the DolomitiBus service leave from the Belluno bus station (opposite the railway station) and reach Val Zoldana in approx. 1hour.

The west side
The West side seen from Sfornioi Nord - ph. andrea

Sassolungo di Cibiana summit cross
Summit of Sassolungo di Cibiana

Normal Routes overview

There are two main Normal routes to the summit, one climbing on the South side and starting from Casera Campestrin, the other one climbing the sector of the West wall located nearby the NW ridge, across ledges, small walls and scree gullies, and starting from Forcella del Sassolungo. Between this two normal routes the most frequented is the route running on the West wall, the most enjoyable, though not the easiest one.

West route
From the "Forcella Ovest del Sassolungo" - II UIAA, 300 m

Mountaineering interesting itinerary with many rock passages, ledges and debris. It requires good orientation, standing foot and a bit of rock climbing experience. Red markers along the route.

On Sassolungo di Cibiana W route near the summit
Grey walls near the summit

Sassolungo di Cibiana first ledge on the W wall
First ledge on the W wall



From the parking lot on the Cibiana pass 1530 m, located near the "Baita Deona", take the gravel road passing near a couple of small traditional huts, the Tabià Dèona, and getting soon a fork. Follow the left branch in the direction of the Casera de la Ronces (signposts to Forcella Bella and Casera Campestrin, 483 AV3. At a second fork follow the right branch. At the third fork take again the path on the right (signposts Forcella Bella, Bivacco Campestrin and Casera Bosconero), entering the wood. Following the shady path, getting to the fourth fork. Here ignore the two branchs on the right (path n. 482 and 485 to Forcella de le Ciavazole, Casera Bosconero and Baita Darè Copàda) and turn to left, always following the path n. 483 in the direction of Forcella Bella and Biv. Campestrin. The path crosses the Northern scree slopes of Sfornioi, getting a first wide saddle not allowing the descent. Afterwards, following shortly the ridge, we get another saddle, Forcella Bella 2112 m. From this saddle the path descends about 70 meters southward in the direction of Val Campestrin, getting a grassy terrace with a cairn. Here ignore the main trail n. 483 which continues to descend and take on the left a well worn track that cuts on level the base of yellow walls. After the horizontal stretch, the trail rises steeply but shortly to a wide saddle, the Forcella Ovest del Sassolungo.


Small huts near Forcella Cibiana
Small huts near Forcella Cibiana
Alm along Sassolungo di Cibiana approach trail
Alm along the approach trail
First signs of Autumn on the way to Sassolungo di Cibiana
Crossing after the fourth fork
Signposts on Forcella Bella
Signposts on Forcella Bella
Forcella Sassolungo, start of the West route
The start of the West wall on Forcella Sassolungo
Sassolungo di Cibiana West route, the characteristic passage in the chimney
The chimney



At the base of the grey wall on the right (facing West), nearby the left edge, it's situated the starting point of the route (red mark). Let's climb soon a short wall (I) up to a groove, then reach a sloping slab and a ledge. Follow the ledge leftwards to turn an edge. After some scree gullies, small walls and ledges the route reach a dark chimney with a jammed block. This is the most characteristic move of the whole route. Climb 3 meters inside the chimney, then exit the chimney through the hole formed by the boulder (II) and continues easily on scree ground and rocks to a rocky ledge. Follow the ledge traversing left; after a fine grey wall (II) the route reachs the wide South ridge of the peak, from which you climb briefly to the summit.

Pinnacle along Sassolungo di Cibiana Normal route
Pinnacle along the West route
A climbing section on Sassolungo di Cibiana West route
Climbing a short wall
Wandering mists on the summit of Sassolungo di Cibiana
Wandering mists on the summit



Descent: reversing the same route


Normal Route from South
From the Casera Campestrin - I/II UIAA

From the shelter get above the gravel South flank throught the dense wood and than to the summit - easy (I UIAA). The South flank can also be reached traversing from the "Forcella Ovest del Sassolungo".

Other routes

Here will be listed some others classic routes.

NorthWest Pillar:
B.Crepaz/S.Gobbo - From "Forcella Cibiana" - III/IV UIAA, 300 m - Bad rock at the begin

From North: (via diretta) - III/IV UIAA, 500m - (III°/IV°) M.Bianchi/E.Urban

North wall Via Al sole delle Dolomiti - IV, 450 m
S.Casara/M.Canal/F.Stefani/L.Panozzo

From East
From "Forcella delle Ronce" - I/II 420m

From Southeast
From "Casera Pian de Fontana" - I

The group seen
North side seen from Monte Rite

Red Tape

No permits, no fees and no particulary restrictions in hiking and climbing, but the whole area had been acknowledged inside the Unesco World Heritage natural sites list and requires the best care and respect.

More info on SP: Dolomites, living mountains.

When to climb

The best period goes from middle June to the end of September


Sassolungo di Cibiana at dusk from Forcella Cibiana
Sassolungo di Cibiana at dusk from Forcella Cibiana

Camping and Huts

Camping is permitted in the whole Bosconero group and it doesn't require any red tape. Otherwise the nearest possibilities of accomodation are the huts and the hotels situated on the Passo Cibiana.

On the South side of Sassolungo di Cibiana we find a small shelter, it's the bivouac "Casera Campestrin".

 
The casera  Campestrin
Casera Campestrin


Casera Campestrin 1649 m

Open from: permanenly
Telephone: none
Keeper: none
Property: CAI sez. San Donà di Piave
Places: 12
From Passo Cibiana, path 483, 2 hours EE
From Ospitale di Cadore, path 483, 3,30 hours E

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

DOLOMITI METEO VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Bosconero Group map
 


 
Guidebooks
 




"Pelmo e Dolomiti di Zoldo" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - G.Angelini & P.Sommavilla - 1983

"Il Bosconero" - Tamari Edizioni montagna - Vittorio De Zordo

"La Val di Zoldo" - Cierre edizioni - Paolo Bonetti, Paolo Lazzarin - 2009



"Dolomiti di Zoldo e Agordine" - Tabacco 025 1:25.000

Additional info

Tourist Office/Ufficio Turistico Provinciale di Zoldo Alto
Viale Dolomiti, 4
32010 Zoldo Alto (BL)
Tel. 0437 789145
Fax 0437 788878
www.infodolomiti.it
zoldoalto@infodolomiti.it

Images