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Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero
Mountain/Rock

Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

 
Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.33140°N / 12.26010°E

Object Title: Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

County: Dolomiti di Zoldo

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Elevation: 7913 ft / 2412 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Jul 1, 2012 / Sep 17, 2017

Object ID: 798075

Hits: 4093 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

What's New on this Page?

* Jul 28, 2017 - Ownership switched by andrea
* Jul 31, 2017 - Page under review



Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero, or simply Rocchetta Alta, is the fifth summit in height of the "Bosconero group", belonging to Dolomiti di Zoldo. With the neighbour “Sasso di Bosconero" it has the most impressive wall facing the Val di Zoldo side (West).
It's part and the major of a cluster of peaks called "Rocchette di Bosconero". The minors are: "Rocchetta Bassa" 2047m, "Cima dei Busa" 2107m, "Cima alta de la Nìsia" 2117m, "Spiz del Vant de la Serra" 2145m, "Cima de l'Albero" 2018m.

Rocchetta Alta is located on the South side of the group. Most of the climbing routes are located on the West side above the Zoldo valley.
Despite the group isn’t very high, the walls have the lenght of 650/700m drop! It appears on the west side, from far, like a square rocky wall. If seen from its foot, it has the shape of a huge pyramid even more massive than from other points of view. If seen from east, it’s hidden from the “Sasso di Toanella".
The two peaks are divided by a narrow couloir usually covered of snow called “Canalone di Rocchetta Alta”.

The northwest side of Rocchetta Alta
The North-West side


It hosts the most interesting climb routes of the whole group, especially on its west side. That side can also be shared in 3 different parts: north pillar, west pillar and the “spigolo Strobel” (Strobel spur) which is the most famous.

The east side, the easiest approach, is composed of terraces of crumbly rock. From here, usually descend the climbers who have climbed the opposite side.

The first ascent has been made by the group: Jeanne Immink/R. von Lichtemberg/Sepp Innerkofler/Pietro Dimai in the july 20th 1893 on the northwest side.

Rocchetta Alta seen from refuge Bosconero
west side


Getting there

Sasso di Toanella and Rocchetta Alta
 


The group is located inside the “Dolomiti di Zoldo” region. For people coming from “Po Valley” the fastest way is reach the village of "Longarone", not far from the city of "Belluno", and in Longarone take on the left the road entering Valle di Zoldo. Another way to reach the Valle di Zoldo is from Feltre and Belluno across Agordo and Passo Duran (road n. 203).

From Turin or Milan or Venice: motorway A4 - Mestre - motorway A27.

Otherwise, reach the village of "Zoldo". It isn't the easiest way but very panoramic.
From "Feltre" or "Belluno": road n.203 – AgordoPasso DuranZoldo.


By plane
The nearest international airports are "Treviso", used for many low-cost flights, and "Venice" "Marco Polo".

By train
The nearest railway station is Longarone; Belluno station can also be used as the DolomitiBus service leaves from there for Longarone/Pecol.

By bus
Various buses of the DolomitiBus service leave from the Belluno bus station (opposite the railway station) and reach Val Zoldana in approx. 1hour.

Climbing routes

 
Climb routes
Climb routes
















1: Via Martini/Leoni/Tranquillini
2: Via dei Polacchi
3: Via KCF
4: Via Navasa o Via delle Grole
5: Via delle Guide
6: Spigolo Strobel
7: Northeast spur





From west: (normal route) From the “Canalone di Rocchetta Bassa” – Valentino Angelini/Silvio Sperti – 26/08/1923 – 500m – II° - (this is the way to get back from the route on the west side)

Southeast spur: Pietro Sommavilla/Giovanni Gianeselli – 19/08/1965 – long approach and wild environment – 600m – II°/III° a passage of IV°

SSW wall: H.P.Geish/R.Goedeke – 20/07/1965 – great route, very good rock – 400m - IV°+/V°-

From southwest: Ivan Ducapa/Ezio Conti – summer 1981 – good rock – 200m – V°+

West pillar: G.De Marchi/A.Masucci/A.Segalin/P.Sperandio – 14/06/1981 – very good rock – V°+ A2

West flank: G.Da Damos/C.Angelini/P.Sommavilla/C.Andrich – 500m – IV°/V° A1

From northwest: (via dei canali-camini) – V. e G.Angelini/D.Tomassi – 19/08/1926 – one of the best of the ancient routes – 700m – III°

West spur/north pillar: G.Dolfi/E.Valicogna – 16/09/1972 – amusing and good rock – 650m – III°/IV°

NW wall/north pillar: S.Dorotei/A.Masucci – 17-18/10/1971 – great route and very good rock – 650m – V°/VI° A1/A2

NW spur: Spigolo StrobelB. Menardi/L. e S. Lorenzi/L. Da Pozzo/G. Zardini – 14-15/07/1964 – very fine route, dedicated to Albino Michielli aka “Strobel” – 650m – VI°+ A1/A2

North wall/north pillar: S.Martini/P.Leoni/M.Tranquillini - 2-6/09/1978 – 600m – VI° A3

North wall/north pillar: (via dei Polacchi) – A.Mirga/K.Zurek – 9-10/07/1977 – 650 – VI° A2

North wall/north pillar: Via Navasa o Via delle GroleM. Navasa/G. Dal Bosco/F. Baschera – 22-27/06/1965 – very important and classic route – 600m – VI° A1

North wall/north pillar: (via KCF) – R.Braumann/J.Vehse – 26-28/07/1970 – probably the hardest – 600m - VI° A1

Nort pillar: (via delle Guide) – 300m – VI°/VI°+

NE spur/north pillar: P.Sommavilla/C.Angelini – 17/07/1963 – 400m – III°/IV°

From northeast: (via Angelini/Sablich) – 11/08/1946 – III°

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

Huts

 
The refuge  Bosconero
 


Casera di Bosconero 1457m


Open from: 20/06 - 20/09
Telephone: +393383713870
Keeper: Monica Bagatin tel. +393383713870
Property: CAI sez. Valzoldana tel. +39 0437 78100
Places: 28 winter 4


From lake of Pontesei 858 m, path 485, 2 hours E
From Passo Cibiana, path 485, 2 hours EE

When to climb

The best period goes from middle June to middle September

Meteo

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

DOLOMITI METEO VENETO

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO Phone +390436780007 fax +390436780008

CENTRO VALANGHE DI ARABBA Phone +390436755711 fax 043679319 e-mail cva@arpa.veneto.it

Guidebooks and maps

 
Bosconero Group map
 
 
Guidebooks
 










"Pelmo e Dolomiti di Zoldo" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - G.Angelini & P.Sommavilla - (the book wherefrom I've got the informations for this page) - 1983

"Il Bosconero" - Tamari edizioni montagna - De Zordo Vittorio

"La Val di Zoldo" - Cierre edizioni - Bonetti Paolo/Lazzarin Paolo - 2009

Additional info

Tourist Office/Ufficio Turistico Provinciale di Zoldo Alto
Viale Dolomiti, 4
32010 Zoldo Alto (BL)
Tel. 0437 789145
Fax 0437 788878
www.infodolomiti.it
zoldoalto@infodolomiti.it

Images

The northwest side of Rocchetta AltaThe groupSasso di Toanella and Rocchetta AltaSpigolo Strobel On Rocchetta AltaThe west side of Rocchetta AltaFrom left:The north wall
Rocchetta Alta seen from "casera Darè Copada"Bosconero Group mapRocchetta Alta seen from refuge BosconeroThe way to "Forcella Toanella"Rocchetta AltaThe Rocchetta BassaClimb routes