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Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero
Mountain/Rock

Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

 
Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.33140°N / 12.26006°E

Object Title: Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero

County: Dolomiti di Zoldo

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing

Elevation: 7913 ft / 2412 m

 

Page By: andrea.it

Created/Edited: Jul 1, 2012 / Jul 27, 2012

Object ID: 798075

Hits: 2610 

Page Score: 79.78%  - 11 Votes 

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Overview

The “Rocchetta Alta”, is the fifth summit in height of the "Bosconero group". And, with the neighbour “Sasso di Bosconero", it has also the most impressive wall on the side of Zoldo (west).
It's part and the major of a cluster of peaks called "Rocchette di Bosconero". The minors are: "Rocchetta Bassa" 2047m, "Cima dei Busa" 2107m, "Cima alta de la Nìsia" 2117m, "Spiz del Vant de la Serra" 2145m, "Cima de l'Albero" 2018m.

Despite the group isn’t very high, the walls have the lenght of 650/700m drop! It appears on the west side, from far, like a square rocky wall. If seen from its foot, it has the shape of a huge pyramid even more massive than from other points of view. If seen from east, it’s hidden from the “Sasso di Toanella".
The two peaks are divided by a narrow couloir usually covered of snow called “Canalone di Rocchetta Alta”.

The northwest side of Rocchetta Alta
The northwest side


It hosts the most interesting climb routes of the whole group, especially on its west side. That side can also be shared in 3 different parts: north pillar, west pillar and the “spigolo Strobel” (Strobel spur) which is the most famous.

The east side, the easiest approach, is composed of terraces of crumbly rock. From here, usually descend the climbers who have climbed the opposite side.

The first ascent has been made by the group: Jeanne Immink/R. von Lichtemberg/Sepp Innerkofler/Pietro Dimai in the july 20th 1893 on the northwest side.

Rocchetta Alta seen from refuge Bosconero
west side


Getting there

Sasso di Toanella and Rocchetta Alta
 


The group is located into the “Dolomiti di Zoldo” region. For who came from “Pianura Padana”, the fastest way is reach the village of "Longarone". Not far from the city of "Belluno".

The Rocchetta Alta is placed on the south side of the group. Most of the climb routes are placed on the west side above the Zoldo valley.



From Turin or Milan or Venice: motorway A4 - Mestre - motorway A27.

Otherwise, reach the village of "Zoldo". It isn't the easiest way but very panoramic.
From "Feltre" or "Belluno": road n.203 – AgordoPasso DuranZoldo.


By plane
The nearest international airports are "Treviso", used for many low-cost flights, and "Venice" "Marco Polo".

By train
The nearest railway station is Longarone; Belluno station can also be used as the DolomitiBus service leaves from there for Longarone/Pecol.

By bus
Various buses of the DolomitiBus service leave from the Belluno bus station (opposite the railway station) and reach Val Zoldana in approx. 1hour.

Tourist Office/Ufficio Turistico Provinciale di Zoldo Alto
Viale Dolomiti, 4
32010 Zoldo Alto (BL)
Tel. 0437 789145
Fax 0437 788878
www.infodolomiti.it
zoldoalto@infodolomiti.it

Climb routes

 
Climb routes
Climb routes























1: "via Martini/Leoni/Tranquillini"
2: "via dei Polacchi"
3: "via KCF"
4: "via delle Grole"
5: "via delle Guide"
6: "spigolo Strobel"
7: northeast spur





From west: (normal route) From the “Canalone di Rocchetta Bassa” – Valentino Angelini/Silvio Sperti – 26/08/1923 – 500m – II° - (this is the way to get back from the route on the west side)

Southeast spur: Pietro Sommavilla/Giovanni Gianeselli – 19/08/1965 – long approach and wild environment – 600m – II°/III° a passage of IV°

SSW wall: H.P.Geish/R.Goedeke – 20/07/1965 – great route, very good rock – 400m - IV°+/V°-

From southwest: Ivan Ducapa/Ezio Conti – summer 1981 – good rock – 200m – V°+

West pillar: G.De Marchi/A.Masucci/A.Segalin/P.Sperandio – 14/06/1981 – very good rock – V°+ A2

West flank: G.Da Damos/C.Angelini/P.Sommavilla/C.Andrich – 500m – IV°/V° A1

From northwest: (via dei canali-camini) – V. e G.Angelini/D.Tomassi – 19/08/1926 – one of the best of the ancient routes – 700m – III°

West spur/north pillar: G.Dolfi/E.Valicogna – 16/09/1972 – amusing and good rock – 650m – III°/IV°

NW wall/north pillar: S.Dorotei/A.Masucci – 17-18/10/1971 – great route and very good rock – 650m – V°/VI° A1/A2

NW spur: (spigolo Strobel) – B.Menardi/L. e S.Lorenzi/L.Da Pozzo/G.Zardini – 14-15/07/1964 – very fine route, dedicated to Albino Michielli aka “Strobel” – 650m – VI°+ A1/A2

North wall/north pillar: S.Martini/P.Leoni/M.Tranquillini - 2-6/09/1978 – 600m – VI° A3

North wall/north pillar: (via dei Polacchi) – A.Mirga/K.Zurek – 9-10/07/1977 – 650 – VI° A2

North wall/north pillar: (via delle Grole) – M.Navasa/G.Dal Bosco/F.Baschera – 22-27/06/1965 – very important and classic route – 600m – VI° A1

North wall/north pillar: (via KCF) – R.Braumann/J.Vehse – 26-28/07/1970 – probably the hardest – 600m - VI° A1

Nort pillar: (via delle Guide) – 300m – VI°/VI°+

NE spur/north pillar: P.Sommavilla/C.Angelini – 17/07/1963 – 400m – III°/IV°

From northeast: (via Angelini/Sablich) – 11/08/1946 – III°

Huts

 
The refuge  Bosconero
 

Casera di Bosconero 1457m

Open from: 20/06 - 20/09
Telephone: +39 0437 787346
Keeper: Monica Bagatin tel. +39 0437 787664
Property: CAI sez. Valzoldana tel. +39 0437 78100
Places: 28 winter 4
From lake of Pontesei 858m, path 485, 2 hours E
From Passo Cibiana, path 485, 2 hours EE

Guide books

 
Guidebooks
 










"Pelmo e Dolomiti di Zoldo" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - G.Angelini & P.Sommavilla - (the book wherefrom I've got the informations for this page) - 1983

"Il Bosconero" - Tamara edizioni montagna - De Zordo Vittorio

"La Val di Zoldo" - Cierre edizioni - Bonetti Paolo/Lazzarin Paolo - 2009

Images

The northwest side of Rocchetta AltaSpigolo Strobel On Rocchetta AltaSasso di Toanella and Rocchetta AltaThe west side of Rocchetta AltaRocchetta Alta seen from "casera Darè Copada"Rocchetta Alta seen from refuge BosconeroThe way to "Forcella Toanella"
From left:Rocchetta AltaThe north wallClimb routesThe Rocchetta Bassa