Follow Horse Creek approach until you get to the 'third meadow'. At that point head up and west over a ridge to a small lk. Follow this valley back south toward Matterhorn and the Matterhorn glacier. Climb the glacier, (crampons usually not necesssary) and acsend the E. Couloir a short distance until you find an obvious entrance to the route up the wall on the right.

Route Description

From the E. couloir climb the right (W.) wall for 1 cl. 3 pitch. (Rope up at the base of the wall). From there cl4 climbing and a cl5 hand traverse lead up and right to a blocky platform at the base of the arete. Traverse W. again following the easiest line to a wall split by a crack rising directly above you. Climb this crack for 1 pitch to another rubble covered ledge. From here go back left around the sharp N. arete proper and find an indistinct subsidary arete and climb it for another pitch. At the top a squeeze chimney with a chockstone leads to the top of the arete. Easier cl4 climbing leads along the top of the arete S. toward the main summit. Descent is via E couloir or Horse cr. pass.

Essential Gear

Mid size chocks and cams are most useful with the usual compliment of slings to extend clips. Don't recall needing any doubles.

Miscellaneous Info

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