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11497 Hits
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71.85% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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40.61940°N / 111.7874°W |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb - Trad Multi-pitch |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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5.5-5.12c |
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Approach
For most of the routes, park at a large pullout 2.25 miles up the canyon. There is a geology sign here talking about some of the rock here being the remenants of an ancient sea. From here, just walk along the road, ascend the loose scree to the base of the wall and start climbing! Outside corner begins around the backside of the arete.
For the first 3 routes in the overview, park in the pullout 2.4 miles up the canyon. Walk up the stable talus above the parking, go right across a loose scree slope up high, and walk down 60 ft to the climbs.
Route Description
JHCOB Wall (sometimes called Jacob Wall) is the towering arete that you pass midway up a steep hill as you approach the Storm Mountain Picnic ground. This wall has some of the canyon's finest climbs, with many crack systems and square holds. Loose rock is plentiful, so a helmet is advised. Also, be careful about dislodging rocks - they could conceivably reach the road! Another thing to consider is the noise from the river below - it can be nearly impossible to communicate with your partner on a climb. 2-way radios would be reccommended to avoid this problem.
The 5.7 Outside Corner is one of the finest of its grade in BCC, and it is the most famous route in this area.
I don't know the origins of the name of the wall, but I imagine that these were the words the climber was cursing as he was biking up the steep hill beneath the wall to reach the climbing routes in the area.
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Outside Corner - 5.7
This is a fun 4 pitch route with awesome views and thrilling exposure. The final pitch has 2 variations.
Pitch #1: (5.6) Start on the east side of the arete and work your way up a small crack system into a dihedral. You can also start a little further uphill and climb a chimney before cutting into the dihedral. There are two pitons you can clip into for pro. The pitch tops out on a ledge on the arete.
Pitch #2: The relative exposure of the first pitch leaves you unprepared for this pitch as you are forced out onto the north face of the wall. The hillside drops further away on the west side of the arete, leaving a longer drop on this side. (5.6) Climb this short pitch on the arete, occasionally straying to the west. Soon a large flat ledge is reached on the arete. Set up the next belay here.
Pitch #3: Some face climbing is encountered (5.7) followed by a large crack (5.6) that leads to the 3rd belay station known as "The Cave". It is a cave cut right into the arete and it is just big enough to comfortably seat two climbers.
Pitch #4: This final pitch has two variations.
Variation A - (5.5) Climb out the far side of the cave onto the east face of the arete. Do an exposed traverse into a dihedral. As soon as is convenient, cut over into the next dihedral via an exposed traverse. Rope drag may force you to set up a belay on a chockstone here. Climb straight up to the top.
Variation B - (5.7) This is the more thrilling variation. Climb back out of the cave to the west for a final pitch of exposed 5.7 face climbing, navigating over and around several roofs. Enjoy!
Descent: Walk off to the west. Follow the rock spur that wraps around the pullout beside the road and pick your way directly down to the car, approaching it from the west.
Essential Gear
These routes are all trad (with a few exceptions). In general, bring a rack with a range of sizes - you might use your largest and smallest pro pieces on the same pitch!
Other Info
If you have additional info for routes described or have done a route not described in depth, please put the info here and I'll integrate it into the page!