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Spalti di Toro - Monfalconi
Area/Range

Spalti di Toro - Monfalconi

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Spalti di Toro - Monfalconi

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.40400°N / 12.48600°E

Object Title: Spalti di Toro - Monfalconi

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 8360 ft / 2548 m

 

Page By: ganesh70

Created/Edited: Jan 15, 2008 / Nov 20, 2010

Object ID: 373083

Hits: 11319 

Page Score: 95.51%  - 53 Votes 

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Overview

 
Torre Antonio Berti
Torre Berti

When you look at the picturesque mountains of this group, especially at sunrise or at sunset, when they shine like the most beautiful jewels, you can’t help to forget the small issues of the ordinary life and to think of more high and sublime things. It’s an incredible dolomitic world, but very different from the too touristic area of the nearby “real” Dolomites. A broad part of this range is still very wild and usually is more likely to meet wild animals then hikers or alpinists. The more frequented places are the areas around the four huts ( especially the paths to the Campanile di Val Montanàia ), but if you avoid the weekends of July and august you can enjoy perfect peace also there.

This is mainly an alpinistic group, almost all summits are off-limits for the average hiker. The climbing routes are often difficult to find and the approaches can be very long and strenuous, so many of this mountains are very rarely climbed ( some of them even once every ten or twenty years! ). The quality of the rock is not always good, and many classic routes are considered too dangerous. Actually the area is more frequented by hikers looking for wilderness and spectacular views then by climbers, that prefer more safe and easily approachable routes.
 
At sunset
Sunset


On this rocks the most famous italian rock-climbers put their hands and many fell in love with them. This is what Tita Piaz, “ the devil of the Dolomites “, said about this rocky peaks to Antonio Berti a few months before dying: “ Still today, after many years, the brilliant memory of the hours spent among those peaks seduces me, and I’m moved like only an eccentric semi-savage at the end of a volcanic life can be”.
 
 The mountains of Thor
Spalti di Toro


Campanile di Val Montanàia, Campanile Toro, “Il Castello di Vedòrcia”, “Il Torrione”, Cresta del Leone, Bòcia di Cimoliana… Each one of this mountains, even the smallest tower, is a wonderful work of art, carved in millions of years by the glaciations and the patient work of erosion of the elements. This peaks are a perfect example of how the mountains don’t have to be necessarily 8000 meters high to be beautiful…

The origin and the etymology of the names of this two groups is not clear and there can be more than one interpretation. Spalti di Toro are probably the bastions ( spalti ) of Thor ( the God of thunder worshipped by the Longobards, who lived in the area of Domegge around 1500 years ago ) and Monfalconi should be a contract form of Mons Falcòns ( Monti Falconi ).

Panoramic views

Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi from Val Ciòl dàl Mònt


Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi from Monte Vedòrcia


IDENTI-PEAK
Spalti di Toro-Monfalconi  - panorama from Monte Vedòrcia
from W
Spalti di Toro-Monfalconi  - Panorama from Val Ciòl dàl Mònt
from SE


Geography

 
Spalti di Toro-Monfalconi
Map of the group

This group is situated in the north-east of Italy, between the two regioni Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia and among the provinces of Udine, Pordenone and Belluno, in the area known as Carnic Pre-Alps.
It’s an 11 km indented ridge ( direction: south west towards north east ) composed by two main groups ( Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi ) that can be divided in six subgroups ( Ramo di Vedòrcia, Ramo del Castellato, Ramo di Toro and Monfalconi di Montanaìa, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Forni ).
The borders are: Forcella Val Misera,Val Anfela, lake of Centro Cadore, Val Talagona, Valle Pra di Toro, Forcella Scodovacca, Val Giàf, Passo Lavinal, Val Binon, Val Meluzzo, Val Cimoliana, Val de Santa Maria, Val Misera.
The average elevation of the main summits is between 2000 and 2500 meters. The highest mountain is the Monfalcòn di Montanàia ( 2548 m ).










Geology

This can be considered the most “dolomitic” area of the Alps even if, as we know, it’s not inside the group of the Dolomiti.
The geological structure of the mountains of this group is very simple: they are almost all completely made of the finest dolomite rock, called Dolomia Principale. It’s a sedimentary carbonatic rock formed in the Norian period of the Triassic age ( 220-200 million years ), in the warm waters of the Tethis sea, that would cover a broad area of the African and the Euro-Asiatic continents. In the Paleogene age ( 65-35 million years ) the two European and African plaques collided and the Alps started to rise. In this period terrible earthquakes and climatic changes modified the original structure of the rock fashioning the mountains giving to them picturesque shapes . Then in the Neogene age ( 25-5 million years ) the dolomitic mountains emerged from the sea and a new phase of erosion started . During the long glaciations of the Pleistocene period ( 2-0.01 million years ) this peaks took the shape that we can admire today ( but the dolomitic mountains are constantly changing… ).



million yearsageperiodwhat happened
0,01IVHoloceneerosion
2IVPleistocenedisintegration and erosion – last glaciations
24III - NeogeneMioceneemersion from the sea
50III – PaleogeneEocenealpine corrugation
65III - PaleogenePaleocenecollision Euro-Asiatic and African plaques
220-200II - TriassicNoriansecond phase of the dolomitic formation



Alpinistic history

150 years ago, when the first pioneers arrived to study this group, this area was one of the most remote and wild of the Alps. Nobody would know much about it and there were legends and scary stories about that sharp towers of rock that would light up at sunset above the eastern side of the valley of the river Piave.
The first were the botanists and geologists J. Gilbert and G.C. Churchill ( pioneers of the Dolomites and authors of the famous book “The Dolomite Mountains” ) and then F.F. Tuckett ( first on Monte Civetta ), that approached the group from west and went up at the feet of the mountains of Vedòrcia. Then other scientists and alpinists like J. Ball, J. Kugy ( who climbed the nearby Crìdola ), G. Marinelli went to see the group and wrote words of great admiration and amazement for that spectacular peaks and towers.

But only in the last years of the nineteenth century a real alpinistic exploration started. The first mountain climbed was the highest one, the Monfalcòn di Montanàia, by Arturo Ferrucci and a local guide in 1891. Four years later another mountaineer from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, C. Mantica, climbed other two summits: Cima d’Arade and an unnamed peak that was named after him ( Punta Mantica ).
Then in the first years of the twentieth century many alpinists came to reveal the secrets of that magnificent dolomitic “garden”. The most prestigious peak to conquer was of course the Campanile di Val Montanàia, the amazing hidden jewel of the group. Napoleone Cozzi ( with A.Zanutti ) was the first who tried the difficult ascent on the south face, but had to stop under a roof just before the “gallery”, not knowing that he had already climbed the most difficult passage of the route ( today known as “Cozzi crack” ).
A few days later V. von Glanvell and K.G. von Saar found an easier passage after the crack and reached the summit of the campanile. The two austrian alpinists succeeded because they were great alpinists but also because they followed the indications of Cozzi, and the story of how they got that information is one of the strangest in the history of the alpinism ( what is sure is that they were in a bar drinking good wine…). here is the story described by Melania Lunazzi ( in Italian ).

The more active mountaineers that climbed for the first time the most important summits of the group were: J. Both and F. Koegel, V. von Glanvell, K.G. von Saar, K. Domenìgg, F. Konig, K. Berger and J. Hechenbleikner, G.B. Piaz and B. Treier,G. De Gasperi, G.B. De Santa and G. Feruglio.

Between the two world wars, the best rock climbers of those years came to open more and more difficult routes on this mountains: P. Fanton, A. Tissi, A. Berti, C. Gilberti,R. Carlesso, E. Solleder,G. Gervasutti, E. Castiglioni,S. Casara… Among the exploits of this fantastic mountaineers one was object of an harsh controversy that lasted for more than fifty years. The overhanging yellow-black north face of Campanile di Val Montanàia was considered impossible to climb by all the alpinists of that era and the first attempt by the Fanton brothers in 1913 was unsuccessful. In 1925 the climber from Vicenza Severino Casara announced that he had climbed that repulsive face in perfect free-solo climb, through the famous “spigolo a sega” ( the saw edge).
Some Italian alpinists had doubts about his climb, because looking at that wall it was clear that the difficulty was above the sixth degree ( today is rated VII- UIAA ), and nobody before had climbed routes of that kind. But for a while nobody contested the climb. Five years later another famous italian mountaineer, Attilio Tissi, led an attempt to repeat that route but he couldn’t follow it and had to open an easier variation using nails and artificial helps. After the climb he affirmed firmly that was impossible that Casara could have climbed that route. Many years after two different alpinists, Mazzorana and Dalla Porta Xidias, climbing two separate sections of the route, proved that the climb was possible ( of course with modern gear and roped ), but only Casara knew the truth, and he brought it in his tomb.

In the 50’s a german engineer, W. Herberg, spent many years in the area studying this mountains and, with his climbing partner from Milano V. Altamura, virtually closed the explorative era . Herberg was a very modest man and didn’t want to give his name to one of the unnamed summits that he climbed (he probably named one of them after his daughter Veronica ). Just a few years ago was decided to change the name of Croda di Mezzo ( Crìdola group ) in Cima Herberg.

In more recent years some very difficult routes have been opened in the group and the most famous are the extreme ones of the writer, carver and alpinist Mauro Corona on the overhanging walls of the Campanile di Val Montanàia ( he climbed it almost two hundred times! ). Mauro lives and works in the nearby village of Erto and is a fantastic rock-climber, great passionate of this mountains that he knows better than anyone else.

SPALTI DI TORO






Il Castello di Vedòrcia

Ramo di Vedòrcia

 
Vedorcia group
from Monfalcon di Forni
 
Ramo di Vedòrcia
From Monte Vedòrcia
 
Spalti di Toro - Ramo di Vedòrcia
Ramo di Vedòrcia map

Cime Cadìn
mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Cima Cadìn degli Elmi2424 mFrom SW ( Forcella di Santa Maria )– difficulty around UIAA Iunknown local hunters46.387/12.451
Cima Cadin degli Elmi
 
Cima Cadìn di Vedòrcia2403 mFrom SW ( Forcella degli Elmi )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIK. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 6/19/190346.390/12.453
Cima Cadìn di Vedòrcia
 
Cima Cadìn di Toro2386 mFrom NW ( Forcella Cadin di Toro )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIunknown cartographers46.389/12.459
Cima Cadin di Toro
 


Il Castello di Vedòrcia
mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Torre di Vedòrcia2315 mFrom S ( Forcella Torre di Vedòrcia )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIK. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 7/20/1907 46.396/12.461
 Il Castello di Vedorcia
 
Torre Sud di VedòrciaunknownFrom S ( Forcella Sud di Vedòrcia )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIK. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 7/20/1907 46.396/12.461
 Il Castello di Vedorcia
 
Torre Nord Est di VedòrciaunknownFrom N ( Forcella Nord )– difficulty around UIAA IVK.G. von Saar-F. Konig, 8/3/1903 46.396/12.461
 The Castle
 
Campanile Olga2270 mFrom S ( Forcella di Mezzo )– difficulty around UIAA IVG.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 7/24/1906 46.396/12.461
 Il Castello di Vedòrcia
 
Campanile DomeggeunknownFrom NE ( Forcella di Mezzo )– difficulty around UIAA III/IVG.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 8/1906 46.396/12.461
 Il Castello di Vedòrcia
 
Collalto2039 mFrom N ( Val Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA IG.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 8/1906 46.398/12.470
Collalto
 
Torre di Collalto2067 mFrom NE ( Forcella di Mezzo )– difficulty around UIAA III/IVG.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 8/190646.398/12.470
Torre di Collalto
 


 
Cima Spe
Cima Spe



Minor summits
mountain elevation routes
Cima Spe2314 mFrom NE ( Forcella Spe )– difficulty around UIAA I/II
Costa Vedòrcia2042 mFrom N ( Rifugio Tita Barba ) – easy hike
Monte Vedòrcia1852 mFrom S ( Rifugio Tita Barba ) – easy hike
Cresta di Santa Maria2238 mFrom NE ( Forcella di Santa Maria ) – difficulty around I/II

















Ramo del Castellato

 
Cima Talagona
Cima Talagona
 
Ramo del Castellato
From Val Ciòl dal Mònt
 
Spalti di Toro - Ramo del Castellato
Ramo del Castellato map

mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Cresta Piana2340 mFrom SE ( From Cima Talagona - Forcella della neve )– difficulty around UIAA IIJ. Both, 8/23/190246.390/12.458
Spalti di Toro
 
Cima Talagona2429 mFrom SE ( Forcella Stretta )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIJ. Both-F. Koegel, 8/23/190246.489/12.461
Cima Talagona
 
Cima di San Lorenzo2363 mFrom SW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA IK. Domènigg-K.G. von Saar, 8/2/190346.388/12.464
Ramo del Castellato
 
Torre di San Lorenzo2385 mFrom NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIG.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio-S. Petz, 9/20/190246.389/12.465
Torre di San Lorenzo
 
Castellato2424 mFrom NW ( Forcella Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA I/II K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 7/22/190346.390/12.467
Castellato
 

Ramo di Toro

 
Winter in Val Montanàia
winter
 
Ramo di Toro
Pala Grande
 
Spalti di Toro - Ramo di Toro
Ramo di Toro map

mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascent Latitude/Longitudeimage
Campanile Toro2345 mFrom SW ( Forcella Le Corde)– difficulty around UIAA II/III K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner 7/22/190346.391/12.469
Campanile Toro
 
Pala grande2385 mFrom SW ( Forcella Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA II K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 8/22/190346.394/12.471
Pala Grande
 
Guglia JacekunknownFrom SW ( Forcella Scura )– difficulty around UIAA IVA. Gozzi-J. Gierlinski-F. Lenarduzzi-R. Bassi, 8/01/197446.393/12.470
Dolomitic mountains
 
Punta Pia2347 mFrom NE ( Forcella Pia )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIG.B. Piaz-B. Treier, 7/25/190646.395/12.473
Punta Pia
 
Cima Toro2355 mFrom E ( Val Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIG. Morassutti-A. Giordani and P. Hubel-O. Uhland-A. Eichinger, 8/29/190246.396/12.474
Cima Toro
 
Punta Elia2251 mNW buttress( Forcella Segnata )– difficulty around UIAA VA. Gracis-L. Coletti, 10/26/196946.397/12.474
The heart of the group
 
Cima Rosina2369 mFrom E ( Val Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIL. Lorenzi-G. Faggian-O. Apollonio, 7/15/196246.396/12.478
Cima Rosina
 
Cima Emilia2424 mFrom NE ( Forcella del Campanile )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIJ. Both-F. Koegel, 8/21/192246.401/12.477
Cima Emilia
 
Cima Both2437 mFrom NE ( Forcella Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III J. Both-F. Koegel, 8/29/190246.403/12.477
Cima Both
 
Punta Cattaneo2242 mFrom S ( Forcella della Finestra )– difficulty around UIAA III/IVL. Tarra-A. Cattaneo, 9/16/191046.408/12.477
Punta Cattaneo
 
Punta Cornelia2230 mFrom E ( Forcella della Finestra )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIW. and P. Herberg, 7/28/195746.406/12.476
Punta 20972097 mFrom NW ( Forcella Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA ISchwarz-Seydel-Stummek-Knopf, 8/20/190346.406/12.480

CAMPANILE DI VAL MONTANAIA

“E’ il Campanile più bello del Mondo” ( “ Is the most beautiful spire of the world” )
Severino Casara


From North
From South


mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Campanile di Val Montanàia2173 mSouth face – difficulty UIAA III/IV and V-V. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar, 9/17/1902 – First female ascent: Mary von Glanvell and Titty Angerer, 10/21/1903 – First winter ascent: O. Soravito-A. Di Prampero, 02/1932 ( normal route ) - S. Dalla Porta Xidias-E. Rocco, 02/23/1944 ( north face ) 46.387/12.451
South face
 


 
 IL MOSTRO
From East


Famous routes
facedifficultyopened byyear
southV+P. Beltrame-P. Ivo1984
southVIII-M. Corona-G. Bottino-A. Moret-E. Bravin1994
eastVIIP. Cetin-S. Dalla Porta Xidias1955
eastVI+R. Carlesso-M. De Zanna1961
eastVIII-M. Corona-A. Gogna1992
northVI-P. Toso-G. Faggian1959
northVII-S. Casara1925
westVII-M. Corona-G. Giordani-C. Carratù1990
westVII+D. Ulian-C. Scaramuzza1969


Dialogo con il Campanile di Mauro Corona ( in italian )








MONFALCONI






Monfalcòn di Forni

Monfalconi di Montanàia

 
Monfalcòn di Montanàia
Monfalcòn di Montanàia
 
Dolomiti d oltre Piave - Views from the summit of Torrione Comici
From Torrione Comici
 
Monfalconi - Monfalconi di Montanàia
Monfalconi di Montanàia map

mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Cima di Forcella Montanàia2520 mFrom SW ( Forcella Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIP. Hubel-O. Uhland-K. Volkmar, 7/29/190246.404/12.484
Campanile di Val Montanaia
 
Monfalcòn di Montanàia2548 mFrom E ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA I/IIA. Ferrucci-F. Luzzatto, 8/04/189146.404/12.486
Bivacco Giuliano Perugini
 
Campanile StabileunknownFrom E ( Alta Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA IVG. Bianchini-O. Soravito, 8/12/195346.402/12.486
Monfalcòn di Montanàia
 
Torre di Forcella CimolianaunknownSE face ( Forcella Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA III G. Bianchini-O. Soravito, 8/12/195346.401/12.484
Monfalcòn di Montanàia
 
Cima Eva2291 mFrom N ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA IIG. Bianchini-M. Micoli, 4/18/195446.403/12.491
Monfalconi
 
Bòcia di CimolianaunknownS face ( Alta Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA III+E. de Toni-G. Bianchini-E. Villaggio, 4/20/195746.403/12.488
Punta Mantica2500 mE face ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIC. Mantica-A. de Bortoli, 189546.406/12.487
Monfalconi di Montanàia
 
Cima d’Arade2503 mFrom SE ( Cadin di cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIC. Mantica-A. de Bortoli, 9/13/189546.408/12.488
Monfalcon di Montanàia
 
Croda Cimoliana2408 mFrom N ( Forcella Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA IIIV. von Glanvell-K. Domènigg-K.G. von Saar, 8/18/190246.398/12.484
Croda Cimoliana
 
Cima Montanàia2268 mFrom S ( Forcella Meluzzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIV. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar, 8/23/190246.395/12.484
Monfalconi di Montanàia
 
Cima Meluzzo2188 mFrom N ( Forcella Meluzzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III V. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar, 8/23/190246.393/12.483
Cima Meluzzo
 

Monfalconi di Cimoliana

 
  I Leoncini   ( the lion s babies )
”I Leoncini”
 
Monfalcon di Cimoliana
Monfalcòn di Cimoliana
 
Monfalconi - Monfalconi di Cimoliana
Monfalconi di Cimoliana map

mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Punta Koegel2440 mFrom S ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIF. Koegel-J. Both, 8/02/190246.410/12.493
Punta Koegel
 
Monfalcòn di Cimoliana2450 mFrom S ( Forcella del Leone )– difficulty around UIAA IIIF. Koegel-J. Both, 8/24/190246.413/12.497
Monfalcòn di Cimoliana
 
Cresta del Leone2401 mFrom NE ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIG. De Gasperi-G. Feruglio, 7/05/190446.408/12.500
Cresta del Leone ( the lion s crest )
 
Torre VincenzounknownFrom NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIG.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio-S. Petz, 9/20/190246.408/12.501
Croda Ultima del Leone2401 mFrom NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIG. De Gasperi-G. Feruglio, 7/15/190446.407/12.502
Bivacco Marchi-Granzotto
 
Cima Stalla2100 mE face ( Forcella Stalla )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIK. Domènigg-F. Konig-K.G. von Saar-V. von Glanvell, 8/17/190346.395/12.495
Cima Stalla
 
Cima Bianca2175 mFrom NW ( Forcella Bianca )– difficulty around UIAA IG.De Gasperi-G.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio, 9/20/190246.405/12.506
Cresta del Leone
 

Monfalconi di Forni

Scala Piccola
mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitude
La Forchetta2216 mFrom NW ( Val Pra di Toro )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIO. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/15/190746.418/12.484
Cima Anna Paolina2330 mFrom W ( Forcella Anna Paolina )– difficulty around UIAA II/III O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/15/190746.418/12.488
Scala Grande
mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitude
Antecima della Scala2200 mFrom E – difficulty around UIAA Iunknown46.415/12.485
Torre del Rifugio2250 mFrom E ( Forcella della Scala )– difficulty around UIAA IV O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/190746.415/12.486
Torre del Verone2300 mFrom W ( Forcella della Scala )– difficulty around UIAA II/III O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/190746.416/12.487
Torre di Mezzo2360 mFrom W ( Forcella del Verone )– difficulty around UIAA II/III O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/190746.416/12.488
Torre del Coltello2390 mFrom S ( Val d’Arade )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIW. Herberg-V. Altamura, 8/2/195346.417/12.490
Cima della Scala2390 mFrom W ( Forcella del Coltello )– difficulty around UIAA II O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/190746.417/12.491
Torre Scodovacca2440 mFrom W ( Forcella Bloccata )– difficulty around UIAA IVK. Domènigg-F. Konig-K.G. von Saar, 8/26/190646.418/12.492
Torre Bianca2470 mFrom W ( Forcella Bianca )– difficulty around UIAA IV O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/190746.418/12.493







Maddalena group
mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Cima Maddalena2410 mFrom SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA IIU. Fanton, 8/14/191046.420/12.490
Cima Maddalena
 
Torre Valentino2300 mFrom NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIG.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio-S. Petz, 9/20/190246.421/12.494
Torre Valentino
 
Coston di Forca Alta2290 mFrom SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIII. and U. Coradazzi Bianchi, 9/3/194846.419/12.494
Cima Bianchi2270 mFrom SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIA. Hennig-T. Hillinger-V. Raitmayr-H. Reingruber,7/11/192746.420/12.495
Cima Maddalena group
 
Cima Chiesa2240 mFrom SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIA. Hennig-T. Hillinger-V. Raitmayr-H. Reingruber,7/11/192746.420/12.496
Val Giàf
 
Torre Antonio Berti2155 mFrom N ( Forcella Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA IIIU. Fanton-A. Andreoletti, 8/19/191146.421/12.497
Torre Berti
 


Giàf group
mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
Cima Giàf2523 mFrom NW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIL.Patera, 8/12/190046.418/12.492
Giàf group
 
Crodòn di Giàf2504 mFrom NW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/III L. D’Agostini-G.B. De Santa, 9/27/190146.418/12.494
Monfalconi di Forni
 
”Il Sigaro”2450 mFrom SW ( Forcella Sigaro )– difficulty around UIAA III/IVK. Domènigg-V.W. von Glanvell-F. Konig-K.G. von saar-T. Angerer, 8/6/190246.417/12.494
 Il Sigaro  ( The Cigar )
 
Monfalcòn di Forni2453 mFrom SW ( Forcella Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA IIH. Steinitzer-R. Reschreiter, 8/2/190046.417/12.497
Monfalcon di Forni
 

Ramo del Torrione-Urtisiel
mountainelevationnormal routefirst ascentLatitude/Longitudeimage
”Il Torrione”2335 mFrom S ( Forcella del Torrione )– difficulty around UIAA IIG. Antoniacomi-I. Coradazzi Bianchi-E. Pavoni-A. Perissutti, 7/20/192946.415/12.500
  Il Torrione
 
Cima Barbe2303 mFrom S ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA III/IVG. Antoniacomi-A. Perissutti, 193046.413/12.512
Cima Barbe
 
Cima Biasutti2280 mFrom S ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIL. Patera, 190046.412/12.513
Ramo del Torrione-Urtisiel
 
Cima Portòn di Monfalcòn2342 mFrom S ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA IIL. Patèra, 8/13/190046.411/12.515
Cima Portòn di Monfalcon
 
Cima dei Pecoli2352 mFrom E ( Forcella dei Pecoli )– difficulty around UIAA I/IIG. De Gasperi-G. Feruglio46.411/12.516
Monfalconi di Forni
 
Cima Urtisièl Ovest2264mFrom SE ( Valmenòn )– difficulty around UIAA II/IIIV.W. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar-K. Domènigg-F. Konig-T. Angerer, 8/14/190346.410/12.523
Cima Urtisiel Ovest
 
Cima Urtisièl Est2119 mFrom W ( Forcella Urtisiel )– difficulty around UIAA Iunknown cartographers, 188846.413/12.531
Cima Urtisiel Est
 


Minor summits

mountainroutesimage
Torre AlfonsoN-NE face – difficulty V
Torre Alfonso
 
Campanile ClaudiaNorth face – difficulty UIAA VII-
Campanile Claudia
 
Torre Gilbertiunknown
Torre Gilberti
 
Torre di Fornivia “Rai dai Tavaius” ( north face ) – difficulty UIAA VI
Torre di Forni
 
Torre FrancescoNorth face – difficulty
Torre BassaFrom NE – difficulty around UIAA III/IV
Cime del Lavinàl 2040 and 2063From Casera Val Binòn ( S ) – easy hikes

Hiking around the group

If almost all the summits of this group are quite difficult to climb, this doesn’t mean that hikers can’t enjoy the wild beauty of this fantastic cathedrals of rock. There are very nice paths through picturesque spires and notches that can really take your breath away. Here is a short list of the most interesting ones:


descriptionmarked path n°hoursviews to
From Rifugio Pordenone to the basin of Campanile di Val Montanàia 3532Brica group,Torri Postegàe, Spalti di Toro, Campanile di Val Montanàia and Monfalconi di Montanàia
From Rifugio Padova to the basin of campanile di Val Montanàia ( through Forcella Segnata )3573 the whole western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro, the Dolomiti Orientali, Campanile di Val Montanàia and Monfalconi di Montanàia
From Rifugio Padova to the basin of campanile di Val Montanàia ( through Forcella Montanàia )346-342-3533.30 the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro, Monfalconi di Forni, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Montanàia and Campanile di Val Montanàia
From Rifugio Giàf to Rifugio Padova ( through Forcella Scodovacca ) 3463.30 all the groups of Monfalconi di Forni, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Crìdola and Spalti di Toro
From Rifugio Giàf to Bivacco Marchi Granzotto ( through Forcella del Cason )3422Crìdola, Monfalconi di Forni, Monfalconi di Cimoliana and Pramaggiore group
From Rifugio Pordenone to Bivacco Marchi Granzotto ( through Forcella del Leone )3493 Pramaggiore group, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Montanàia and Monfalconi di Forni
From Rifugio Padova to Bivacco Marchi Granzotto ( through Forcella Monfalcòn di Forni )346-3423the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Montanàia , Monfalconi di Forni and Pramaggiore group
From Rifugio Padova to Rifugio Pordenone ( through Forcella Segnata )357-3534.30the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi, Dolomiti Orientali, Campanile di Val Montanàia, Pramaggiore group
From Rifugio Padova to Rifugio Tita Barba3522.30the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi
From Rifugio Tita Barba to Bivacco Gervasutti ( through Forcella Spe )3503the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi, Cima dei Preti group, Pramaggiore group



Huts and Bivouacs

Huts
mountain hutvalleyelevationhow to get thereowned byTel. number
Rifugio GiàfVal Giàf1405 m2 kms by car from Chiarandenis village- Forni di Sopra and then a 30 minutes hike to the hut ( path. N°346 )Comune di Forni di Sopra0433.88002 - e-mail: rifugio.giaf@libero.it
Rifugio PadovaVal Pra di Toro1300 mFrom Domegge di Cadore 7 kms by car through Val Talagona or 3 hrs by footComune di Domegge di Cadore0435.72488
Rifugio Tita BarbaMalga Vedòrcia1821 m2 hrs ( path n° 350 ) from Domegge di Cadore (loc. La Faghera ) private0435.32902
Rifugio PordenoneVal Meluzzo1249 mfrom Cimolais 13 km by car through Val CimolianaCAI Pordenone0427.87300

Bivouacs


nameelevationplace
Bivacco Marchi Granzotto2152Val Monfalcon di Forni
Bivacco Perugini2060Cadin di Val Montanàia
Bivacco Gervasutti1940eastern slopes of Cresta de Santa Maria









Getting there

1) Rifugio Padova ( 7 km by car from Domegge di Cadore/south east side of the lake ) - Rifugio Tita Barba ( marked path 350 from La Faghera, reachable by car from Sottocastello-Chalet Miralago )
2) Rifugio Giàf ( From Forni di sopra-Chiarandenis village 2km by car and then a short hike of 20/30 min to the hut. Marked path 346 )
3) Rifugio Pordenone ( 13 km by car from Cimolais )




From east:
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit CARNIA and then Tolmezzo, Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra (2), Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore (1)

Or
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit Gemona and the S.daniele, Maniago, Barcis, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

From west:
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo,Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

From south:
From Venezia to Belluno , Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From Venezia to Belluno and then Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

From north:
From Passo di Monte Croce Carnico to Tolmezzo. Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra (2), Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore (1)
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

When to climb?

The best season is from may-june to September-october. Winter ascents are possible but difficult with very long approaches ( the roads to the huts are usually iced and very dangerous in the winter season ).


Meteo

Veneto weather forecast
Friuli weather forecast
Eastern Alps weather forecast
webcam Forni di Sopra

Red Tape

The eastern part of this group is inside the Parco delle Dolomiti Friulane . There are no fees to pay or particular restrictions ( camping is not allowed ), but remember that here we like to keep the nature intact so don't trow away anything and respect plants and wild animals.

Accomodation

You can easily find accommodation in the villages at the three corners of the group ( Cimolais, Forni di Sopra, Domegge and Pieve di Cadore ).
Forni di Sopra Hotels
Camping Forni di Sopra
Camping Domegge
Cimolais hotels
Pieve di cadore hotels
Domegge di cadore hotels

Maps and books

Tabacco 1:25000

1) 021 Dolomiti di Sinistra Piave
2)002 Forni di Sopra-Forni di Sotto-Ampezzo-Sauris
3)016 Dolomiti del Centro Cadore
4) Parco naturale delle Dolomiti friulane


A. and C. Berti - Dolomiti Orientali vol. II - C.A.I. - T.C.I.
G.Buscaini – Le Dolomiti Orientali - Zanichelli
J.Gilbert – G.C. Churchill - Montagne Dolomitiche – Nuovi sentieri editore
S. Fradeloni - Dolomiti di sinistra Piave e Prealpi Carniche - Edizioni Dolomiti
I. Zandonella - 50 escursioni in Val del Piave - Edizioni Tamari
L. Visentini - Dolomiti d'Oltre Piave - Escursionismo e vie normali sulle cime dei gruppi del Cridola, Spalti di Toro e Monfalconi - Athesia Editrice
K. Von Saar and K. Dominigg - Alla scoperta delle Prealpi Carniche - C.A.I.
S.Dalla Porta Xidias - Addio al Campanile – Luca Visentini Editore
Fondazione Berti - Antonio Berti cantore delle Crode – Nuovi sentieri editore
S.Dalla Porta Xidias - Montanaia.Cento anni di storia e di segreti – Nuovi sentieri editore
Danilo Pianetti - L’avventura dolomitica di Victor Wolf von Glanvell – Edizioni Ghedina Cortina
C. Ferri - Alpi Carniche e Dolomiti Friulane - Itinerari alpinistici dell'ottocento - " Le guide " - Editrice Goriziana
M. Lunazzi - Le Dolomiti Friulane negli acquarelli di Napoleone Cozzi - Nuovi Sentieri Editore
M. Lunazzi - Ardimenti e incantevoli ozi - Nuovi Sentieri Editore
A.Gogna-M.Milano-F.Raiser - I grandi spazi delle Alpi - Vol.8 – Priuli e Verducca Editori
R.Pedrotti - Dolomiti Orientali - Manfrini
I.Zandonella Callegher - Dolomiti del Piave - Athesia
F.Hauleitner -Dolomiti sconosciute - Athesia

Images