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Monfalcòn di Forni
Mountain/Rock

Monfalcòn di Forni

 
Monfalcòn di Forni

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Friuli-venezia-Giulia, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.41700°N / 12.49700°E

Object Title: Monfalcòn di Forni

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 8048 ft / 2453 m

 

Page By: ganesh70

Created/Edited: Sep 6, 2007 / Jan 17, 2008

Object ID: 333511

Hits: 4177 

Page Score: 84.82%  - 19 Votes 

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The fairy tale castle

"Its summit is like the corolla of a flower" ( Antonio Berti )

 
The fairy tale castle
 










There aren't "giants" in the small group Monfalconi di Forni, but its peaks and towers can compete in beauty with the most famous dolomitic ranges. Its main summits are ( from west ): Torre Bianca ( 2470 m ), Torre Scodovacca ( 2440 m ), Cima Anna Paolina ( 2330 m ), Cima della Scala ( 2390 m ) , Cima Maddalena ( 2410 m ), Torre Berti ( 2195 m ), Cima Giaf ( 2523 m ), Crodon di Giaf ( 2504 m ), "Il Sigaro" ( 2450 m ), Monfalcon di Forni ( 2453 m ), "Il Torrione" ( 2335 m ), Torre di Forni ( 2032 m ), Cima Barbe ( 2303 m ), Cima Biasutti ( 2280 m ),Cima Portòn di Monfalcon ( 2342 m ), Cima dei Pecoli ( 2352 m ), Cima Urtisiel Ovest (2264 m ) , Cima Urtisiel Est ( 2119 m ) and Cime Lavinal ( 2040 m ). This are only the most known peaks, there's also an impressive number of fantastic towers, pinnacles, spires and needles, most of them without name.
 
Monfalcon di Forni
From the north ravine

Among the mountains of this little "jungle" of dolomite, Monfalcon di Forni, that gives the name to the group, is certainly one of the most charming. On its imposing dolomitic base there are a lot of towers of different sizes and shapes, that make it look like a fairy tale castle, especially if observed from Val Monfalcon di Forni.
This wild dolomitic peak dominates three valleys ( Val Giàf, Val d'Arade and Val Monfalcon di Forni ) and two beautiful dolomitic groups ( Crìdola and Monfalconi ), and is situated among Torre Alfonso ( Crodon di Giàf group ) , "Il Torrione" and Monfalcon di Cimoliana.
The name of this peak means " mountain of Forni " ( Monfalconi is the name of this kind of mountains and Forni di Sopra is the name of the main village of this area).
 
Monfalcon di Forni
From the Val Giàf

For almost all the summits of the group there aren't easy ascents, and Monfalcon di Forni is no exception, altough its normal route is one of the easiest. But there are also beautiful climbing routes that can satisfy even the most exacting climbers. The quality of the dolomitic rock ( dolomia principale ) of Monfalcon di Forni is very good.



 
Monfalconi di Forni
From Crìdola






From the tiny summit ( where you'll find a beautiful big cairn ) of this mountain you can enjoy a wonderful panorama: almost all the group of Monfalconi di Forni, the three valleys around and one of the best views of the south faces of Crìdola, Torre Both and Torre Crìdola; a very broad view of the southern Carnic Alps; the eastern part of Dolomiti di Sesto; the whole Pramaggiore group, Duranno and Cima dei Preti; and a very beautiful view of the two giants Civetta and Pelmo.
First ascent: H.Steinitzer - R.Reischreiter in 1900 ( normal route )

Summit views

 
Crìdola - south face
Crìdola
 
Monfalconi di Forni - eastern ridge
Western group
 
Torre di Forni
Torre di Forni

 Il Torrione  and Torre di Forni
Il Torrione
Cresta del Leone
Cresta del Leone
Giàf group
Giàf group

Routes Overview

 
Monfalcon di Forni
East face

Normal route from south-west :
H. Steinitzer - R. Reischreiter ( 1900 )
350 m - Max diff. UIAA II+ - 1 hour from Forcella Monfalcon di Forni
Beautiful route that follows first the ravine between Torre Alfonso and Monfalcon di Forni and then goes up through sheer rock faces and ledges. Two alpinistic passages ( UIAA II+). Great 360° panorama from the summit.

From North west:
A. Perissutti - I. Coradazzi - G. Antoniacomi ( 1931 )
350 m - Max diff. UIAA III/IV - 3 hours from Forcella da las Busas

From the south-east chymney
:
G. Bianchini - O. Soravito ( 1953 )
200 m - Max diff. V - 2 hours from the base of the south-west face
 
Monfalcon di Forni
Pilastro Canova














From the north-east edge:
Micoli-Schiaulini
400 m - Max diff. IV/V - 4 hours from the northern ravine

Via " Pilastro Gildo Canova " ( south-east pillar )
F. Dell'Omo - M. Barbiero
150 m - Max diff. VI+
( here the detailed description of the route )

Getting there

There are three possible approaches:

1) From Rifugio Padova ( 7 km by car from Domegge di Cadore )
2) Rifugio Giàf ( From Forni di sopra-Chiarandenis village 2km by car and then a short hike of 20/30 min to the hut. Marked path 346 )
3) Rifugio Pordenone ( 13 km by car from Cimolais )




From east:
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit CARNIA and then Tolmezzo, Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra (2), Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore (1)

Or
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit Gemona and the S.daniele, Maniago, Barcis Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

From west:
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo,Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

From south:
From Venezia to Belluno , Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From Venezia to Belluno and then Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

From north:
From Passo di Monte Croce Carnico to Tolmezzo. Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra (2), Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore (1)
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

Red Tape

 
  Monfalconi
Winter

Monfalcon di Forni is inside Parco delle Dolomiti Friulane. There are no fees to pay or particular restrictions, just remember that this is a protected area.

When to climb?

June to october is the best season. Winter ascents are also possible for experts.

Friuli-Venezia-Giulia weather forecast

Accomodation

There are three beautiful alpine huts in the area:
Rifugio Pordenone
Rifugio Padova and
Rifugio Giàf


Hotels, Camping and Guesthouses

Camping Cologna - Domegge
Camping Tornerai - Forni di Sopra
Hotel Adelia - Domegge
Forni di Sopra Hotels
Cimolais hotels

Maps and books

 
Castles ( of dolomite )
From Forcella da las Busas



Tabacco 1:25000

1) 021 Dolomiti di Sinistra Piave

2) Parco naturale delle Dolomiti friulane


A. and C. Berti - Dolomiti Orientali vol. II, C.A.I. - T.C.I.
S. Fradeloni - Dolomiti di sinistra Piave e Prealpi Carniche, Edizioni Dolomiti
I. Zandonella - 50 escursioni in Val del Piave, Edizioni Tamari
L. Visentini - Dolomiti d'Oltre Piave - Escursionismo e vie normali sulle cime dei gruppi del Cridola, Spalti di Toro e Monfalconi - Athesia Editrice
K. Von Saar and K. Dominigg - Alla scoperta delle Prealpi Carniche - C.A.I.

Images