Monfalcon di Montanaia

The normal route is placed along its eastern side, inside a beautiful natural gravelled basin surrounded by towers and cliffs. It is called: Cadinùt di Cimoliana. From the top is visible the whole group of Monfalconi and Spalti di Toro. The group also includes the summits: Campanile Stabile (2502m), Croda Cimoliana (2408m), Campanile Pordenone (2310m), Cima Montanaia (2268m), Cima Meluzzo (2188m), Punta Mantica (2500m) and the Cima d'Arade (2503m). It overlooks the "Val Montanaia" to the south side, the "Val d'Arade"  to the north side and the "Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana".

Getting there

There are three possible way to climb:

 

- From Rifugio Padova  Val d'Arade  path 353

- From biv. Marchi/Granzotto  Val Monfalcon di Forni  path 349

- From Rifugio Pordenone  Val Cimoliana  path 349

 

Road access From East: From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit CARNIA and then Tolmezzo, Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra, Passo della Màuria, Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore -  From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit Gemona and the S.daniele, Maniago, Barcis Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

 

Road access from West: From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Passo 3 Croci, Domegge di Cadore, Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra -   From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

From South:  From Venezia to Belluno, Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore , Lorenzago, Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra  Or From Venezia to Belluno and then Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone From North: From Passo di Monte Croce Carnico to Tolmezzo. Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra , Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore  From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Domegge di Cadore, Lorenzago di Cadore, Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra  Or From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

Routes

Normal Route From ref. Pordenone follow the path 349 to "Forcella Leone" to the junction with the path 348. From the junction, follow the course of the water stream going up on poor track in the direction of the waterfall that originates it on the left, and after a bit, turn right towards a large boulder with little stonepile above. 

Now aim the cliff above, the base of which lies the path and follow it to the left, up to a grassy gully and an excellent water source. Climb up the grassy gully that allows you to enter the beautiful and lonely "Cadinut of Cimoliana". 

 

Is now time to stand holding the left, without venturing on the gravel slope (useful instead to return); always continue to rise on plates always keeping to the left until you reach the base of the rocks through the scree towards two large red signal.

Now the path proceeds in rare red marks and essential stonepiles. Going up the debris of the channel is one of the most challenging steps: a first step of II+ (4m) and a subsequent chimney of 15m of II, following the release of unsafe debris (take care to the stones that will inevitably come in the chimney) . 

You proceed now to ledges alternating with fun steps up on the ridge, then switch to side of Val d'Arade and you face the second gentle stretch, a chimney of broken rock, often wet and very exposed (10m , II), after which you goes directly to the summit, 2548m.

Same route for the descent. Helmet is mandatory! Useful a 30m rope for rappeling.

 

 

 

 

"Dolomiti di Sinistra Piave" - edition Tabacco - n.021 - 1x25000

Kompass - n.55/58