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Monfalcon di Montanaia
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Monfalcon di Montanaia

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Monfalcon di Montanaia

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Pordenone, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.40440°N / 12.48670°E

Object Title: Monfalcon di Montanaia

County: Friuli Venezia Giulia

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Elevation: 8360 ft / 2548 m

 

Page By: AlbertoRampini

Created/Edited: Jun 13, 2010 / Aug 7, 2017

Object ID: 629084

Hits: 3798 

Page Score: 84.82%  - 19 Votes 

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Overview

Monfalcon di Montanaia 2548 m






Monfalcon di Montanaia 2548 m is the highest peak of all the Monfalconi-Montanaia group. Precisely the group of peaks as part of Monfalconi, but bordered to the west by the "Forcella Cimoliana" and northeast by the "Forcella Ferrucci". Generally composed by friable rocks, it doesn't host important modern climb routes. Neither its normal route is easy or commonly climbed. 
Anyway the view from the top is amazing, surrounded by series of pinnacles and spires. The summit is composed of two parts divided by a notch. The summit cross is placed on the north summit where the normal route leads.



View from Forcella Segnata.
View from Val Montanaia - Photo andrea


Monfalcon di Montanaia
Croda Cimoliana and Monfalcon di Montanaia from southeast - Photo andrea


The normal route is placed along its eastern side, inside a beautiful natural gravelled basin surrounded by towers and cliffs. It is called: Cadinùt di Cimoliana

From the top is visible the whole group of Monfalconi and Spalti di Toro.
The group also includes the summits: Campanile Stabile (2502m), Croda Cimoliana (2408m), Campanile Pordenone (2310m), Cima Montanaia (2268m), Cima Meluzzo (2188m), Punta Mantica (2500m) and the Cima d'Arade (2503m).

It overlooks the "Val Montanaia" to the south side, the "Val d'Arade" to the north side and the "Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana".

Getting there

There are three possible of approaches:

From Rifugio Padova  Val d'Arade  path 353
From biv. Marchi/Granzotto  Val Monfalcon di Forni  path 349
From Rifugio Pordenone  Val Cimoliana  path 349


From east:
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit CARNIA and then Tolmezzo, Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra, Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore 

Or
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit Gemona and the S.daniele, Maniago, Barcis Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

From west:
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Passo 3 Croci, Domegge di Cadore , Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra 

Val d'Arade above the refuge Padova
Val d'Arade above the refuge Padova
Or
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo,Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

From south
From Venezia to Belluno , Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore , Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra 

Or
From Venezia to Belluno and then Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

From north:
From Passo di Monte Croce Carnico to Tolmezzo. Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra , Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore 
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Domegge di Cadore, Lorenzago di Cadore, Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra 

Or
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone

Routes

 
Monfalcon di Montanaia
Approach to Normal route - Photo andrea




Normal route

From ref. Pordenone follow the path 349 to "Forcella Leone" to the junction with the path 348. From the junction, follow the course of the water stream going up on poor track in the direction of the waterfall that originates it on the left, and after a bit, turn right towards a large boulder with little stonepile above. 
Now aim the cliff above, the base of which lies the path and follow it to the left, up to a grassy gully and an excellent water source. Climb up the grassy gully that allows you to enter the beautiful and lonely "Cadinut of Cimoliana"

Is now time to stand holding the left, without venturing on the gravel slope (useful instead to return); always continue to rise on plates always keeping to the left until you reach the base of the rocks through the scree towards two large red signal.
Now the path proceeds in rare red marks and essential stonepiles. Going up the debris of the channel is one of the most challenging steps: a first step of II+ (4m) and a subsequent chimney of 15m of II, following the release of unsafe debris (take care to the stones that will inevitably come in the chimney) . 

You proceed now to ledges alternating with fun steps up on the ridge, then switch to side of Val d'Arade and you face the second gentle stretch, a chimney of broken rock, often wet and very exposed (10m , II), after which you goes directly to the summit, 2548m.
Same route for the descent.Helmet is hobligatory!! Useful a 30m rope for rappeling.

Other routes:

North ridge: From "Forcella Cimoliana", very bad rock (300m II°)

From west: From "Forcella Teresa", most logic route (120m II°)

From southwest: Long and dangerous (350m III°)


Monfalcon di Montanaia
Summit of Monfalcon di Montanaia

Monfalcon di Montanaia
Summit - Photo andrea

Red Tape

No permits, no fees required

Huts

 
Refuge Padova
Rifugio Padova - Photo andrea


Rifugio Pordenone 1249 m. CAI Sez. Pordenone - Guardian: Marika Freschi Open: from the end of May to the end of September Phone: Hut 0039042787300- Mobile 00393355224961
Getting there: 10 minutes from Pian Meluzzo

Rifugio Padova 1287 m CAI Sez Padova - Guardian: Paolo De Lorenzo
Open: 25.04 - 31.10 = 24.12 - 06.01 Hut Phone: 0039043572488
Getting there: by car from Domegge di Cadore across Val Talagona

Bivacco Perugini 2060 m - CAI Camposampiero
Getting there: from Pian Meluzzo 2.30h.

Bivacco Marchi-Granzotto 2170 m - CAI Pordenone
Getting there: from refuge Pordenone 3.30h.

When to climb

Summertime

Meteo

ARPAV Dolomiti Meteo

Guidebooks and maps

Maybe the most useful and detailed guidebook of this area. Even if a little dated:

Guida dei Monti d'Italia - "Dolomiti Orientali" volume II - Antonio and Camillo Berti - 1982 - 25 euro

Map:

"Dolomiti di Sinistra Piave" - edition Tabacco - n.021 - 1x25000
Kompass - n.55/58

Images