|Route Type:||Trad Climbing|
|Time Required:||Half a day|
|Rock Difficulty:||5.10b (YDS)|
|Number of Pitches:||2|
A worthwhile climb although it can easily be led as a single pitch by the competent leader. If the pro is extended correctly at the traverse-in, it goes straight up from there. The first 100’ offers some delicate and engaging 5.9/5.10a climbing. The second half is mostly 5.8/9 but with some run out and mossy/chossy rock. Stars and Stripes just to the right is a much more laid-back climb for the budding 5.9 or 5.10- leader. Gear belays, no fixed hardware on the route.
Descend the notch between Djin and Charlatan via one 5th class move. Scramble up to the slabs on the right to avoid obstacles in the gully. Descend back to the gully at a dying tree (2020). In short order, look to traverse left up a short 4th class move to gain a ramp that leads directly to the lone (2020) tall pine tree. Slight of Hand, the Raven and Stars and Stripes Forever all start at this tree.
1st/2nd Pitches- 220’-5.10b/ Traverse right to left on the fun undercling roof and make the turn (short route crux) into the left facing corner. Climb the corner as it turns to a seam/arete (balance and exposure, 5.10-). Step right to below a roof when it peters out. Pull the slight roof into the corner above. When the corner becomes full of grass, etc., step out left on slab and run up a cleaner crack, then back right into the corner. Pull a dirty bulge to gain the upper lower angled corner palming the arete up and right. Sling a bolder on top for a belay.
Rap the Thin Ice rap with a single 70m rope back to the Spooky notch and downclimb 4th class to return to the base of the route.
70m Rope. I used nothing larger than a #1. Double rack to that with some micro gear, wires and/or cams. Route gets shade until noon in the summer.