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The Buttress
Route

The Buttress

 
The Buttress

Page Type: Route

Location: Snowdonia, Wales, Europe

Lat/Lon: 52.64287°N / 4.00959°W

Object Title: The Buttress

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: Very Difficult (USA 5.2 - 5.4)

Number of Pitches: 3

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Nanuls

Created/Edited: Jan 28, 2009 / Apr 15, 2011

Object ID: 484230

Hits: 1460 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview


There are fewer more convenient locations to climb in Meirionnydd than Craig yr Aderyn, and there are fewer more convenient routes to climb on Craig yr Aderyn than The Buttress (Very Difficult). It starts practically out of the crag’s parking area. Basically what we have here is a good solid V. Diff., and a very good introduction to what the crag has to offer. It takes an obvious line up the centre of The Bastion Face, and can be climbed as two, three or four pitches. In addition there are a number of variations that can be made which add to its repeatability. On the whole the rock is safe and solid, although protection can be hard to find, and most will find something to enjoy here.

FA: Unknown

Getting There

 
Craig yr Aderyn
The start of the route, you can’t miss it (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Craig yr Aderyn
The route follows the crest of this ridge (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Craig yr Aderyn
The view back down the first pitch back to the start (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Bastion Descent
The descent ramp which runs down the back of the Diamond Face (Photo by Nanuls)

Most visitors to Craig yr Aderyn will approach the rock from the east, if you have to approach from the west, then you clearly know the area well enough already, and therefore don’t need a section such as this to help you get there. So, if you are coming from the east, you need to turn off the A470 at the Cross Foxes Inn junction (SH 766 167), and drive south along the A487 for some 6km to the junction for the B4405 near the Minffordd Hotel (SH 732 114). For those familiar with the area, this is the same turning as you would take for the car park on the southern side of Cadair Idris where the Minffordd Path starts. Drive along the B4405 as far as Abergynolwyn (SH 677 069). In the centre of the village there is a crossroads, turn right here and drive north up a narrow unclassified road to another set of crossroads marked by a public phone box (SH 662 079). Turn left here and drive west along another unclassified road. After a around a kilometre and a half the road reaches Craig yr Aderyn and passes along the base of its north face, There are various lay-bys along the road where parking is available, the best ones for this route are located just beyond the junction at grid reference SH 643 071. The route starts at the lowest point of the crag, right next to the road.

Route Description

Pitch 1 (12m): Ascend easily up the left-hand wall of the buttress to a large ledge where a spike belay is possible. Beware of gorse needles in the pockets on the lower parts of pitch.

Pitch 2 (21m): The longest pitch of the route. Climb to the left of a bulge, followed by a direct line up to easier ground just below a steep slightly overhanging wall.

Pitch 3 (8m): Climb the steep wall, which may look harder than the VD grade the route is given, but is made easy by good holds. Scramble up the remaining rock to belay.

Descend via a narrow ramp which can be accessed by walking a little further uphill and slightly to the left.

The Buttress Route. For a clean version of the photo click HERE

Essential Gear

A single 50 or 60m rope will be fine (you may want to use a double or twin but its not essential) a moderate rack of nuts, hexes and maybe a few cams. Also be sure to carry a selection of slings and screwgates for constructing belays. The route is best done in rock shoes as boots would be way too cumbersome. Naturally you will also need all the other paraphernalia associated with climbing and hill walking in Wales: full waterproofs, fleece, hat, gloves and of course some lunch.

Maps

Open Space Web-Map builder Code
Navigation Maps

OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 23 Cadair Idris & Bala Lake/Llyn Tegid

OS 1:50k Landranger Series 124 Porthmadog & Dolgellau

Road Maps

OS Travel Map Great Britain 2009

OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands

Guidebooks

Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) Snowdonia (Official National Park Guide) by Merfyn Williams with contributions from Ian Mercer and Jeremy Moore

A handy book full of useful information and interesting facts about the National Park.
Climbers Club Guide Wales: Meirionnydd Climbers Club Guide Wales: Meirionnydd by Martin Crocker, John Sumner, Terry Taylor, Elfyn Jones, with contributions from Mike Rosser, Mike Lewis and Dave Wrennall

The definitive climbing guide to the area. Contains detailed descriptions and excellent diagrams of all known routes on Craig yr Aderyn. An essential purchase if you plan to do a lot of climbing in Mid Wales.
Rock Climbing in Snowdonia Rock Climbing in Snowdonia by Paul Williams

A good general rock climbing guide for North Wales. It describes a few routes on The Bastion and has a handy photo-topo of the face. Ideal for the occasional visitor to the area.

External Links

 
Craig yr Aderyn
The Bastion Face - The Buttress route takes the crest of the arête (Photo by Nanuls)
 
Craig yr Aderyn
The Bastion - The face to the far right of the photo is the last pitch of the The Buttress Route (Photo by Nanuls)
General

Snowdonia National Park Authority
Council for National Parks
Association of National Park Authorities
Conwy County Council
Gwynedd County Council
Powys County Council
Welsh Tourist Board
Mid Wales Tourism Partnership
Snowdonia Society
Local Information from Gwynedd.com
Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net
North Wales Index
Snowdonia-Active.com
Countryside Council for Wales
Craig yr Aderyn Special Protection Area Core Management Plan and Unit Map
Joint Nature Conservation Committee
The National Trust
CADW
Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales
Gwynedd Archaeological Trust
British Mountaineering Council
The Climbers Club
Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre
Hightreck Snowdonia

Weather

Mountain Weather Wales
Weather from the Met Office
Weather Channel UK

Travel

Welsh Public Transport Information
Uk Train Timetable

Accommodation

Youth Hostel Association in Wales
Llanllwyda Campsite
Cae Du Campsite
Accomodation around the Dysynni Valley
Tourist information for Abergynolwyn
Accommodation in and around Tywyn

Maps and Guidebooks

Ordnance Survey
Harvey Map Services
Cicerone Guidebooks
Climbers Club Guidebooks

Welsh Language

Welsh Language Board
Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group
Cymuned Welsh language pressure group
Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association)
Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary
Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon

Images

Craig yr Aderyn