There are fewer more convenient locations to climb in Meirionnydd than Craig yr Aderyn, and there are fewer more convenient routes to climb on Craig yr Aderyn than The Buttress (Very Difficult). It starts practically out of the crag’s parking area. Basically what we have here is a good solid V. Diff., and a very good introduction to what the crag has to offer. It takes an obvious line up the centre of The Bastion Face, and can be climbed as two, three or four pitches. In addition there are a number of variations that can be made which add to its repeatability. On the whole the rock is safe and solid, although protection can be hard to find, and most will find something to enjoy here.
Most visitors to Craig yr Aderyn will approach the rock from the east, if you have to approach from the west, then you clearly know the area well enough already, and therefore don’t need a section such as this to help you get there. So, if you are coming from the east, you need to turn off the A470 at the Cross Foxes Inn junction (SH 766 167), and drive south along the A487 for some 6km to the junction for the B4405 near the Minffordd Hotel (SH 732 114). For those familiar with the area, this is the same turning as you would take for the car park on the southern side of Cadair Idris where the Minffordd Path starts. Drive along the B4405 as far as Abergynolwyn (SH 677 069). In the centre of the village there is a crossroads, turn right here and drive north up a narrow unclassified road to another set of crossroads marked by a public phone box (SH 662 079). Turn left here and drive west along another unclassified road. After a around a kilometre and a half the road reaches Craig yr Aderyn and passes along the base of its north face, There are various lay-bys along the road where parking is available, the best ones for this route are located just beyond the junction at grid reference SH 643 071. The route starts at the lowest point of the crag, right next to the road.
Pitch 1 (12m): Ascend easily up the left-hand wall of the buttress to a large ledge where a spike belay is possible. Beware of gorse needles in the pockets on the lower parts of pitch.
Pitch 2 (21m): The longest pitch of the route. Climb to the left of a bulge, followed by a direct line up to easier ground just below a steep slightly overhanging wall.
Pitch 3 (8m): Climb the steep wall, which may look harder than the VD grade the route is given, but is made easy by good holds. Scramble up the remaining rock to belay.
Descend via a narrow ramp which can be accessed by walking a little further uphill and slightly to the left.
A single 50 or 60m rope will be fine (you may want to use a double or twin but its not essential) a moderate rack of nuts, hexes and maybe a few cams. Also be sure to carry a selection of slings and screwgates for constructing belays. The route is best done in rock shoes as boots would be way too cumbersome. Naturally you will also need all the other paraphernalia associated with climbing and hill walking in Wales: full waterproofs, fleece, hat, gloves and of course some lunch.
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OS 1:25k Explorer Series OL 23 Cadair Idris & Bala Lake/Llyn Tegid
OS 1:50k Landranger Series 124 Porthmadog & Dolgellau
OS Travel Map Great Britain 2009
OS Road Map 6 Wales/Cymru & West Midlands
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