Overview
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Getting There
Most visitors to Craig yr Aderyn will approach the rock from the east, if you have to approach from the west, then you clearly know the area well enough already, and therefore don’t need a section such as this to help you get there. So, if you are coming from the east, you need to turn off the A470 at the Cross Foxes Inn junction (SH 766 167), and drive south along the A487 for some 6km to the junction for the B4405 near the Minffordd Hotel (SH 732 114). For those familiar with the area, this is the same turning as you would take for the car park on the southern side of Cadair Idris where the Minffordd Path starts. Drive along the B4405 as far as Abergynolwyn (SH 677 069). In the centre of the village there is a crossroads, turn right here and drive north up a narrow unclassified road to another set of crossroads marked by a public phone box (SH 662 079). Turn left here and drive west along another unclassified road. After a around a kilometre and a half the road reaches Craig yr Aderyn and passes along the base of its north face, There are various lay-bys along the road where parking is available, the best ones for this route are located just beyond the junction at grid reference SH 643 071. The start is at the bottom of the obvious crack that the route ascends. Route DescriptionPitch 1 (26m): Take a line just below the crack to a small ledge, the first 9m of climbing is poorly protected so take care. There’s a friend jammed in a crack on the left side of the ledge. You can belay here if necessary. Climb more in the crack to an awkward final move and another ledge where you can build a boulder and tree belay. The final moves can be a bit vegetated, particularly in summer.Pitch 2 (11m): Move easily right over some protruding boulders and a stance on the buttress then climb to the top via a clean cut groove on the left. Descend via a narrow ramp which can be accessed by walking a little further uphill and slightly to the left.   Essential GearA single 50 or 60m rope will be fine (you may want to use a double or twin but its not essential) a moderate rack of nuts, hexes and maybe a few cams. Also be sure to carry a selection of slings and screwgates for constructing belays. The route is best done in rock shoes as boots would be way too cumbersome. Naturally you will also need all the other paraphernalia associated with climbing and hill walking in Wales: full waterproofs, fleece, hat, gloves and of course some lunch.Maps
Guidebooks
External LinksGeneralSnowdonia National Park Authority Council for National Parks Association of National Park Authorities Conwy County Council Gwynedd County Council Powys County Council Welsh Tourist Board Mid Wales Tourism Partnership Snowdonia Society Local Information from Gwynedd.com Local Information from Snowdonia Wales Net North Wales Index Snowdonia-Active.com Countryside Council for Wales Craig yr Aderyn Special Protection Area Core Management Plan and Unit Map Joint Nature Conservation Committee The National Trust CADW Royal Commission on Ancient & Historical Monuments in Wales Gwynedd Archaeological Trust British Mountaineering Council The Climbers Club Plas y Brenin National Mountain Centre Hightreck Snowdonia Weather Mountain Weather Wales Weather from the Met Office Weather Channel UK Travel Welsh Public Transport Information Uk Train Timetable Accommodation Youth Hostel Association in Wales Llanllwyda Campsite Cae Du Campsite Accomodation around the Dysynni Valley Tourist information for Abergynolwyn Accommodation in and around Tywyn Maps and Guidebooks Ordnance Survey Harvey Map Services Cicerone Guidebooks Climbers Club Guidebooks Welsh Language Welsh Language Board Cymdeithas yr Iaith Gymraeg Welsh language pressure group Cymuned Welsh language pressure group Yr Urdd (Welsh Youth Association) Welsh-English / English-Welsh online translator Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Dictionary Welsh-English / English-Welsh Online Lexicon Images
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