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1855 Hits
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72.08% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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30.37627°N / 98.11912°W |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Overview
What the Matrix has going for it is that it has the shortest approach of any North Shore crag. Also, few know about it or bother with it, so you probably can have it to yourself.
But there are some good reasons that few climb here. One is that there is not much to climb here; there is just one bolted route, not of high quality, and there are three toprope routes (two are off the same anchors). Another is that the routes are very short (15-20' tops); since the anchors are just bolts with quicklinks, these climbs really aren't worth the effort to rig for a lower or rappel unless several people are going to be toproping them.
There also is trad route here, where a nice crack gives way to a dirty runout and then a sometimes-brushy topout. I did what might have been the first ascent of it on April 1, 2020.
Getting There
After entering Reimers Ranch Park off Hamilton Pool Road and going through the entrance station, follow the road to its end (4-5 miles) and park at the lot for what signs call North Bank and which climbers North Shore.
Take the main access trail down, but do not cross the stream as you would to access most North Shore Crags. Instead, look to the left for a use trail leading toward rock outcrops. Watch out for deadfall, poison ivy, venomous snakes, and even some old barbed wire as you work into a slot between a short wall and some tall boulders. On that wall you will find some bolts.
If you are approaching from Dude Wall, the way in is easier and cleaner, but you will probably use the standard way when you exit.
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Routes
Routes from left to right:
- Unknown Toprope Route, 5.9 or 5.10-- Within pretty easy reach of Trinity's anchors are some bolted anchors you can use to hang a toprope. This route is not in the local guidebook, and I am not sure if it is something someone is developing. My son thought it felt like 5.9, but I thought the bottom was harder than that.
- Trinity, 5.7-- Two bolts and then anchors. The bolts protect a short but pretty crack/flake system, and although the rock is weak in places, I think this route never should have seen bolts. Also, it is very soft for the grade; I would call it 5.4 tops. If you want to do a true trad ascent, top out and belay off a solid tree.
- Unnamed Trad Crack Route, 5.7-- I did what might have been the first ascent of this on April 1, 2020, and I added a page for it on Mountain Project. My name for the route is Humanavirus.
- Welcome to the Real World, 5.10b-- Use anchors for The Blue Pill but stay 4' left of them. Since this wall is so short, climbing this route sounds like a great recipe for groundfall unless you are solid at the grade..
- The Blue Pill, 5.11b-- TR anchors up top. Looks mossy and thin.
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There are numerous bouldering opportunities on the section of wall left of the bolted area and on the tall boulder (Oracle Boulder) that helps form the slot.