Toerlwand

Overview

The Törlwand is in the Wilder Kaiser range. Although it is no "stand alone" mountain, in fact the summit is really a short ridge, the climbing it offers is really quite superb and well worth the walk up to it´s base.
The rock routes on it´s south face can often be climbed early or late in the year.
The easist route should not be underestimated. it offers some interesting scrambling in an exposed situation where a fall could certainly have serious consequences.
Because it form part of a ridge it is often overlooked. This means that it offers a quiet days climbing when other more popular faces are well visited. The panorama to the south is quite wonderful, on a clear day one can see the Hohe Tauern, Kitzbühler and the Zillertaler alpen
Do not underestimate this mountain though, although relatively low, it´s routes all have an alpine atmosphere and often require alpine expirience

Getting There

The Wilder Kaiser mountain range is one of the most accessible ranges in Austria. It´s already visible from the A8 motorway which runs down to Innsbruck. Exit the Autobahn at Kufstein (When driving down from Germany on the motorway if one leaves it before Kufstein no motorway toll vignette must be bought If one is driving from Salzburg or Innsbruck on the motorway one needs to buy one)
The Törlwand can be reached from both south and north and each direction has a hut

From the south, the Gaudeamushütte
From the north, the Fritz Pflaum Hütte

A day trip from the south is also more than possible. There is a good car park at the Wochenbrunneralm. Toll fee of 4 Euros.

Huts

Gaudeamushütte, 1267meters , has a warden.

Gaudeamushütte

Fritz Pflaum Hütte, 1865 meters.
Note this is a self service hut. You´ll need to bring your own food with you. Also on the path up to it there is a fire wood depot, carry some up wih you! There will probably be some already up there but someone has to carry it up! In winter there is no running water so you´ll need to melt snow.

Fritz Pflaum Hütte

Getting to the Törlwand base

From the Gaudeamushütte:
Follow the Gildensteig to the Kleinen Törl. About 2 hours. Shortly before the col the path runs below the south face.

From the Fritz Pflau Hütte:
Follow the path to the Kleinen Törl. About 1 hour. From the col drop down onto the south side to the south face. About 5 minutes

The Routes

As written above, all of the routes are on the south side.

Törlwand Schiefer Riss Grade 6. Mostly 5. In place protection is not good. Bring Friends and chocks

Törlwand Alte Südwand Grade 3+ Mostly 2 and 3. The in place protection is good. But you might want to bring a few chocks and slings.

Törlwand Direkte Südwand Grade 6- Mostly 4. You´ll have to protect this yourself.

Törlwand Südostwand Grade 5+/A0 You´ll need to protect this one yourself.

Getting Off!

This is not a hands in the pockets descent. From the west end of the summit ridge climb down about 10 meters, bits of 1 and 2, to an abseil ring. From here there is a 26 meter abseil to the path below. Some of this is free, so be prepared to be airborne! Once on the path follow it in a southerly direction down a gully until you join the Gildensteig again.

Other possiblities

From the Gildensteig you can also go back up to the Kleine Törl. The large tower on the east side of the col is called the Kreuztörlturm. This offers a number of good rock routes. For example the Akademikerkante, grade 4+

Maps

Alpenvereinskarte Nr 8.
Kaisergebirge. 1:25000

Images

View Toerlwand Image Gallery - 20 Images