The Totenkirchl offers some of the best rock climbing that can be had in the Wilder Kaiser! It was first climbed in 1881.
The Stirpsenjoch House provides the easiest access.
The rock is often good and offers rock routes of all difficulty. The north side has routes of middle difficulty often on superb rock.
The easiest way up is the “Fuehrerweg” a grade 3 rock route. It´s well worth doing with 2 long passages of 3, a lot of 3- and much 2 and easier.
The “Fuehrerweg” is also the descent route. There are good abseil bolts in place. The route is well marked with cairns and red arrows (pointing down!). All the same be careful if the weather changes, the route can be dangerous and a lot more difficult in rain or snow!
The Wilder Kaiser mountain range is a limestone mountain group of great importance to alpine rock climbing. It is the scene of many epic ascents and barn breaking increases in German and Austrian climbing standards. It lies between Kufstein in the Inn valley and St Johann.. Although the highest peak, Ellmauer Halt is only 2,344 meters high, they have a grandeur, which belies their relative lack of height.
The Wilder Kaiser mountain range is one of the most accessible ranges in Austria. It´s already visible from the A8 motorway which runs down to Innsbruck.
The most convenient base to climb the Totenkirckl from is the Stripsenjochhaus, 1577m, this hut is very central for other mountains too in this area. Head for the village of Grisenau, 720m, from here a toll road runs up to the Griesener Alm, here there´s a large carpark. In 2004 the toll for a car was Euro 2,5. A good path leads up the valley to the Stripsenjochhaus. The walk takes about one hour. The hut is visible from very early on along the path, just look up towards the col.
There´s no red tape. When driving down from Germany on the motorway if one leaves it before Kufstein no motorway toll vignette must be bought If one is driving from Salzburg or Innsbruck on the motorway one needs to buy a motorway toll vignette
When To Climb
Between May and October
Because the Wilder Kaiser is not in a national park it is possible to camp near the Griesener Alm path.
As written above, the most convenient hut is the Stripsenjochhaus The hut is open between the middle of May to the middle of October. It´s a very popular hut so it´s worth while phoning to reserve a place for the night
The whole area is well serviced with mountain huts and further out are many hotels of all levels.
This is a link to the Stripsenjoch Haus:
Here is a link to the German Alpine Club weather page
Normal Route, Fueherweg III (descent route too, see above)
Heroldweg III. First climbed by G. Herold, 1895, SOLO!
Duelfer Chimney V+. First climbed by Hans Duelfer, L. Hanstein, 1911
Dülfer V. First Climbed by H. Duelfer, W. Schaarschmidt, 1913
Luechs III. G.Leuchs, A.Schulz, 1902
Meinungsfreiheit VI+. Ch.Groeber, A.Hell, 1990
Piaz V. G.B. Piaz, J. Klammer; R. Schietzold, F. Schrofenegger 1908.
A fuller route list can be had here
- Austrian Map online
Online digital maps of Austria (OEK 50, OEK 200 and OEK 500) by the BEV (Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen) - in German