Torre Bovental

Overview

Torre Bovental 1690 m

Torre Bovental is a fine dolomite tower located on the North West side of the Sengio Alto Group in the Piccole Dolomiti group at the foot of the massive Monte Cornetto. It is just a minor spire overhelming with its South-West ridge the bucolic meadows around Malga Bovental and takes place in an unusual environment of meadows and spiers absorbed in the heart of the Piccole Dolomiti. The tower is the first evident pillar that delimits the SW side of the Cornetto on its left side. Though it is a true summit, the tower remained inexplicably unclimbed until September 2018. In fact only in the year 2018 it had been realized a climbing route with moderate difficulty which follows this obvious ridge, allowing a fun and not difficult climb useful for days when the weather is not suitable to tackle longer and more demanding itineraries or to gain confidence with climbing in the Little Dolomites.

Getting There

The Torre Bovental can be approached both from the North (Passo Pian delle Fugazze) and from the South (Passo Campogrosso)

Road access to Passo Pian delle Fugazze

- from A22 Autobrennero Motoway exit Rovereto and follow the road SS46 along the Vallarsa, crossing numberless small villages like Valmorbia, Anghebeni and Raoxi and reaching at least the pass named Pian delle Fugazze 1162 m (km. 26 from Rovereto). 

Walking approach

Take the road named “Strada delle Sette Fontane” and then the path n. 173 towards the Malga Boffetal alm. After passing the alm, take the path n. 170 in the direction of Passo degli Onari. When the tower is clearly visible, leave the path and go up along the short track (big cairn) which in 2 minutes leads to the start of the route (30-40 min from Pian delle Fugazze)

Road access to Passo Campogrosso

- from A4 Motorway exit Montecchio Maggiore and follow the road to Valdagno and Recoaro. Pass Recoaro and take to the right the road to Merendaore and Passo di Campogrosso 1457 m. Parking lot near the Rifugio Toni Giuriolo.

Walking approach 

Behind the parking lot take the path 170 E5 which runs along the Sengio Alto subgroup on the left, first through a beech forest and then through meadows. Ignore two paths branching to the right. The Torre Bovental and its South ridge is visible once you are out of the wood and the path 170 practically passes under it. Without reaching the Malga Bovental 1435 m, also called Boffetàl, continue to get the foot of the spire and leave the main path to climb up a short and steep track on the right (big cairn) which leads to the start of the route in 2 minutes (about 30 minutes from Campogrosso)

Route "Spigolo Bellavista"

 

 

 

 

Spigolo Bellavista

 

Difficulty: D, V, IV (IV + obl.) UIAA
Length: 140m, 6 length

Exposition: South
First ascent: Matthias Stefani and M. Canova (29/9/2018)

 

Fun and very logical classic climbing itinerary, with easy access and a quick descent. At the end of the climb it is possible to climb by chaining other neighbors
climbing routes, such as the "Via degli Ometti" or the "Spigolo Soldà"

 

L1 - Climb vertically and, after a few meters, continue obliquely to the left to get the belay, III, IV,  20 m.

L2 - Continue obliquely to the right up to the ridge. Get up and then move to the left earning the comfortable stop.25 Mt., IV +, 1 step of V or A0, 5 nails of which 1 with cord, 1 wedge with cord, 1 hourglass with cord.

L3 - Go to the base of the rocks and, with a delicate step, difficult to interpret, overcome the wall. With a fine climb reach the belay, IV, IV-, 25 m
L4  - Key length. Climb the slab slanting right and reach the crack. Climb it and exit to the right. After a couple of vertical steps go back to the south side and go up to the left. The rock become gradually easier to reach the belay. It is advisable to continue and link the next easy walking length,  IV +, V, IV +, 40 m

L5 - Climb the pillar to its top. Stop here IV, 20 m

From here reach the top of the tower (route book and summit bell already visible)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Descent: come back in the direction of the last belay and without reach it go down to the left (facing out) following the steep tracks. When you reach a small cairn, turn right (facing out) along a comfortable grassy corridor between pines and gain a saddle. Go down to the right to the path n. 176. From here it is possible to go up towards the start of via degli Ometti or Spigolo Soldà or descend again to Passo Campogrosso (after a few war tunnels, join path n. 170). Another possibility is climbing up to Passo degli Onari and follow the beautiful Arroccamento trail to Passo del Baffelan and Passo delle Gane. From here descend to reach the path 170 in the vicinity of Passo di Campogrosso.

The Arroccamento Trail 

This is an old and extraordinary military trail, winding between Sengio Alto high summits and crossing all the Sengio Subgroup from Malga Cornetto m. 1220 to Toni Giuriolo Hut at Campogrosso Pass m. 1456, realized by the Italian Military Engineers Corp during the WWI (First Mondial War), after Austrian Strafexpedition in 1916. 

Red Tape

The road Sette Fontane is closed to the private cars.

Climate and nature

Piccole Dolomiti have a own local micro-climate due to the high contrast between the North West side, colder and dry, and the South East side, warmer and wet: this situation is the cause, especially in summer time, of some frequent fogs along the South-East sides.

The area of the Piccole Dolomiti has a high naturalistic value and is rich in endemic flora species.

When to Climb

Best season goes from April to November.

Accomodation

- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo Passo di Campogrosso 1456 m Phone +39044575030

- Rifugio alla Guardia Phone +39044575257

Meteo

Meteo Trentino
Dolomiti Meteo

Guidebooks and maps

Guidebooks

New climbing guidebook "Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - Cierre Ed. 2015

"A un passo dal cielo" by Arturo Castagna

“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto

“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI