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Baffelan
Mountain/Rock

Baffelan

 
Baffelan

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Vicenza/Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.73434°N / 11.17696°E

Object Title: Baffelan

County: Veneto, Trentino

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 5883 ft / 1793 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Sep 18, 2012 / Mar 29, 2014

Object ID: 814643

Hits: 2127 

Page Score: 90.81%  - 33 Votes 

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Overview

Baffelan m. 1793


The little pre-alpine group of Little Dolomites shows some pearls. Baffelan is one of these, an imposing and beautiful limestone tower located in e the Sengio Alto Subgroup, the central one in Little Dolomites. By means of the mighty shape, the height – 350 meters - the splendid isolation and the steepness of its faces Baffelan represents the emblem of the whole range. The peak shows a wide and majestic East face overlooking the King’s Road, a yellow South face and a steep North face; the West side on the contrary doesn’t show steep faces and joins with the Sengio Alto notched ridge.
On this peak we can count numberless high class climbing routes on verygood quality “dolomia”; in addition to the pre-existent classic and hystorical routes, some others new ones were climbed in last ten-years period.







Baffelan North-East face in Fall
Baffelan North-East face in Fall



Getting There

Road access

There are two different possibilities:

1 – From SE side (Vicenza province): follow A4 Motorway, exit Montecchio Maggiore and take the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso (47 km. from Montecchio Maggiore); some hundred meters before getting to Campogrosso Pass follow the King’s Road on the right and park the car near the bar closing the road. The walking approach if coming from SE side is quite faster then the next one.

2 – From NW side (Trento province): follow A22 Autobrennero Motoway, exit Rovereto and take the SS46 rising inside Vallarsa; after the interesting Eremo di San Colombano, the road is rising across some small villages like Valmorbia, Anghebeni and Raoxi and at least is reaching Pian delle Fugazze m. 1162 (km. 27 from Rovereto). From the pass, situated on the border between Trento and Vicenza provinces, follow for a few meters the road towards Vicenza and sudden leave it, turning to right on the King’s Road (Strada del Re, an old road suitable for vehicles only for some kilometers) leading to Malga Cornetto; at the fork with the road to Pasubio Military Sanctuary carry on along the main road and where the road is closed by a bar park the car in a little pull-out.

The ancient hermitage of San Colombano - Vallarsa
The ancient hermitage of San Colombano - Vallarsa
Baffelan seen from the summit of Terzo Apostolo
Baffelan seen from the summit of Terzo Apostolo
Baffelan in wintertime
Baffelan in wintertime: Photo taken by Vid Pogachnik



Walking access

From Campogrosso Pass - Follow the King’s Road, skirting the East faces of the Sengio Alto, for few hundreds of meters and park the car near the bar which closes the road. After reaching Malga Baffelan follow the trail toward the E face (20 min.)

From Pian delle Fugazze - From the little pull-out near the bar which closes the King’s road, follow the road by walking; where the road is destroyed a steep trail crosses the old landslide and leads to the final section of the King's road. Follow it to a hairpin below the peak: a short trail starting from the hairpin leads below the East face (50 min).

History

First summit ascent: Giuseppe Bolfe and pals on June 24th 1877 along the West standard route

All the routes on Baffelan

 
Beautiful corner on Soldà Pillar
A corner on Soldà Pillar


South face

- Via Soldà IV, 180 m.
- Via Casara III, IV, 300 m.

East Face

- Via N. Soldà
- Via Compagnia
- I Segreti del Baffelan IV, V, VI-, 400 m.
- Sem
- Via Ceneri nel Vento VI, VII, VIII+ (A0), 370 m.
- Via del Piacere V, V+, a single move grading VI, 350 m.
- Via Boschetti-Zaltron
- Alpinismo Radicale
- Via Carugati III+, a single move grading IV, 330 m.
- Via Carlesso IV, V, a single move grading V+, 290 m.

North-East Ridge

- Via Tranquillo e Placido VI, VII, 280 m.

North-East face

- Superbaffelan V, VI, VII, 270 m.
- Soldà Pillar IV, V-, 250 m.

North face

- Via Thiene IV, V, VI+, VII-, 170 m.
- Via Vicenza III+, IV-, 170 m.
- Via Verona III+, IV-, 170 m.
- Via Bentornato IV, V, VI, 220 m.
- Via Ferrara IV, V, A1 170 m.

Baffelan Normal Route from West side

 
Baffelan East face
East Face
 
Baffelan summit view
Baffelan summit view


Baffelan Normal Route from West side

An easy and short scramble on good rock starting from Baffelan Col and leading to the beautiful and panoramic summit.

Approach: from the King’s Road follow the trail toward Malga Baffelan, then head towards the East face and reach on the right a stones’ wall; climb the rocks on the left of the wall (iron’s chain) and enter Boale del Baffelan, follow the steep trail leading to the Baffelan Col (junction, signs). Turn to left (South) and follow the Arroccamento path to the Baffelan Saddle.
From here a short scramble on easy rocks (I, II) leads to the summit cross (1 and a half hour from the King’s Road).

Climate

Little Dolomites shows a local micro-climate due to the high contrast between NW side, colder and dry, and SE side, warmer and wet: this situation is the cause, especially in the summer time, of frequent fogs along the East sides. Fall is a wonderful season to climb and hike, in reason of the presence of a mixed wood, surroundings the Sengio Alto Subgroup, giving an amazing look to the landscape.

Red Tape

There are no particular restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars are not allowed on the road of Settefontane, running on the North side of Sengio Alto and joining Passo Pian delle Fugazze with Passo di Campogrosso.

The Arroccamento Path

 
Baffelan from Malga Campogrosso
A winter image of Baffelan seen from Malga Campogrosso - Photo Vid Pogachnik
 
Baffelan N face from Sentiero d Arroccamento
Baffelan North face seen from Sentiero d'Arroccamento, an old military path


This is an extraordinary old military path, winding between the peaks of Sengio Alto Subgroup and crossing it from Malga Cornetto m. 1220 to Toni Giuriolo Hut at Campogrosso Pass m. 1456. The path was realized by the Italian Military Engineers Corp during the First World War.

Where to stay

On CAMPOGROSSO:

- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo m. 1456 - Passo Campogrosso m. 1456 - Phone +39044575030

- Rifugio Alla Guardia Phone +39044575257

On PIAN DELLE FUGAZZE:

- Rifugio Balasso m. 983 - Valli del Pasubio (Vicenza)

- Alberghi Pian delle Fugazze m. 1163 s.l.m. - Passo Pian delle Fugazze, Vallarsa (Trento)

When to climb

Best season goes from May to October.

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO

DOLOMITI METEO

Guidebooks and maps

- Guidebooks

“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI
“Arrampicate nelle Piccole Dolomiti” by Guido Casarotto
“A un passo dal cielo” di Arturo Franco Castagna – Alpguide Antersass


- Maps

Pasubio-Carega 1:25.000

Images