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Primo Apostolo (First Apostle)
Mountain/Rock

Primo Apostolo (First Apostle)

 
Primo Apostolo (First Apostle)

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Vicenza, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.73448°N / 11.17811°E

Object Title: Primo Apostolo (First Apostle)

County: Veneto

Activities: Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 5702 ft / 1738 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Mar 16, 2013 / Feb 18, 2014

Object ID: 842417

Hits: 1323 

Page Score: 87.44%  - 25 Votes 

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Overview


Primo Apostolo m. 1738



This slender odd tower of dolomia is the finest of a small group of three ones, all named Apostoli (Apostles) in reason of their resemblance and closeness, lying in the middle part of Sengio Alto Subgroup, the central sector of Little Dolomites. Primo Apostolo (First Apostle), as its name says, is the first tower on the left when you’re looking to Apostoli from South. The Boale del Baffelan to the South, separating the tower from Baffelan, together with another steep gully to the North, give to Primo Apostolo a powerful shape and a great detachment from the surroundings peaks. The mighty spur facing East and overlooking the King’s Road is vertical and very attractive and in reason of this fact concentrates to itself the main climbing interests. As the majority of the peaks belonging to Sengio Alto subgroup, the summit of Primo Apostolo is jointed to Sengio Alto by a short scramble heading to West and getting to the Arroccamento Path, a beautiful trail running across all the subgroup. The Western face of Primo Apostolo is shorter but steep and compact, overlooking the Meadows of Settefontane.
On Primo Apostolo we count numberless high class climbing routes on very good quality “dolomia”; in addition to the pre-existent classic and hystorical routes, some others new ones were climbed in last ten-years period.

Primo Apostolo East Face
Primo Apostolo East Face


Getting There

The shortest approach is from Campogrosso Pass.

Road access to Campogrosso Pass

- From SW side (Vicenza province): follow A4 Motorway, exit Montecchio Maggiore and take the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso (47 km. from Montecchio Maggiore); some hundred meters before getting to Campogrosso Pass follow the King’s Road on the right and park the car near the bar closing the road.

Another option is going towards Campogrosso Pass by walking from Malga Cornetto, if you’re coming by road from the NE side (Rovereto)

- from NE side (Trento province): follow A22 Autobrennero Motoway, exit Rovereto and take the SS46 rising inside Vallarsa; after the interesting Eremo di San Colombano, the road is rising across some small villages like Valmorbia, Anghebeni and Raoxi and at least is reaching Pian delle Fugazze m. 1162 (km. 27 from Rovereto). From the pass, situated on the border between Trento and Vicenza provinces, follow for a few meters the road towards Vicenza and sudden leave it, turning to right on the King’s Road (Strada del Re, an old road suitable for vehicles only for some kilometers) leading to Malga Cornetto; at the fork with the road to Pasubio Military Sanctuary carry on along the main road and where the road is closed by a bar park the car in a little pull-out.


 
Toni Giuriolo Hut and Carega Group in the background
Toni Giuriolo Hut at Campogrosso - Carega Group in the background
 
Foggy sunset over Primo Apostolo
Foggy sunset on First Apostle




Walking approach

Walking access to E face, NE face and Normal route


- From Campogrosso: from the bar on the King’s Road continue on the road, skirting the East faces of the Sengio Alto, reaching the meadows of Malga Baffelan; follow the trail toward left heading to the Boale del Baffelan, enter it, reaching an hand-made stone wall (20 min.)

- From Pian delle Fugazze: from the little pull-out near the bar which closes the King’s road, follow the road by walking; where the road is destroyed a steep trail crosses the and leads to the final section of the road. Follow it to a hairpin below the peak: a short trail starting from the hairpin leads below the East face (50 min).

All the routes of Primo Apostolo

 
Belay below the characteristic nose on East Ridge
Below the "nose" on East Ridge
 
Primo Apostolo (First Apostle) from approach path
Primo Apostolo from the approach path




- Primo Apostolo Normal Route

An easy and short scramble starting from Malga Baffelan and rising to the Baffelan Col m. 1661, then getting the summit via the Arroccamento Path.

Report: from the King’s Road follow the trail toward Malga Baffelan, the head to left getting the Boale del Baffelan (iron’s chain) towards the Baffelan Col m. 1661 (junction, signs), a saddle lying on Sentiero di Arroccamento. From the saddle follow towards right (North) the Arroccamento Path, getting to the saddle between Primo and Secondo Apostolo; a short scramble to the summit.

All the routes on Primo Apostolo (UIAA Scale):

East face

- Spigolo Faccio IV, V, m. 170 m. Fine classic route on very good rock, the most climbed of the peak
- Via Arcobaleno IV, V, VI+ m. 170

North-East face

- Via Serenella Stenghel IV, V+, VI+, VII- (A0) m. 160
- Via Uno di Noi VII, VIII- m. 160
- Via Sergio e Carla IV, V, VI m. 150

West face

- Via Dagmy IV, V+, a short move grading VI+ (or A) m. 100

Descent: following the Normal route

Red Tape

No particulary restrictions in climbing and hiking. Cars are not allowed on the North side road from Pian delle Fugazze to Passo di Campogrosso.

Sentiero di Arroccamento accross Sengio Alto

 
Sentiero di Arroccamento near Primo Apostolo
Sentiero di Arroccamento nearby Primo Apostolo
 
The Arroccamento Trail nearby Torre d’Émmele
The arroccamento trail

 
Baffelan Col
Baffelan Col

 
On Sengio Alto at fall
On Sengio Alto at fall

 
A military tunnel on Arroccamento Trail
A WWI cavern along Sentiero di Arroccamento

 
The green meadows of Malga Cornetto
Malga Cornetto



It's an amazing old military path, winding between the peaks of Sengio Alto Subgroup and crossing it from Malga Cornetto m. 1220 to Toni Giuriolo Hut on Campogrosso Pass m. 1456. This beautiful path was realized by the Italian Military Engineers Corp during WWI and can be followed in both the two walking directions: from South (Rif. Giuriolo) to North (Malga Cornetto) and vice versa.

Starting points:

- Malga Cornetto m. 1220
- Rif. Toni Giuriolo on Campogrosso Pass m. 1456

When to Climb

Best season goes from May to October

Climate

Little Dolomites shows a local micro-climate due to the high contrast between NW side, colder and dry, and SE side, warmer and wet: this situation is the cause, especially in summer time, of frequent fogs along the East sides.

Where to stay

- Toni Giuriolo Hut at Campogrosso Pass m. 1456 Phone +39044575030
- Alla Guardia Hut Phone +39044575257

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO

DOLOMITI METEO

Guidebooks and maps

 
Sengio Alto map
 

“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

“Arrampicate scelte nelle Piccole Dolomiti e nel Pasubio” by Guido Casarotto


Map Pasubio-Carega 1:25.000

Images