Torre Lusy

Overview

Torre Lusy 2280 m

Cinque Torri group in the Cortina Dolomites is a small and fine area of towers and spires - seeming to be five, but truly more than five - located between Croda da Lago to the East and Tofana di Rozes to the West. The area offers several sport climbs as well as many classic multipitch routes, getting to the airy summits of the spires.

Torre Lusy, together with Torre Romana and Torre Barancio, forms a small excellent tryad, showing the shape of stunning narrow pinnacles, which is also known as the complex of the Second Tower. Torre Lusy is located very close to Torre Barancio; it thins a lot in its upper part and seems almost to lean on the facing Torre del Barancio. 

Torre Lusy has the characteristic shape of a pointed and slanted pillar. It was climbed for the first time in August 1913 and was dedicated to the first climber, the CAAI Academician Marino Lusy from Trieste.

Getting There

The closest town is Cortina d’Ampezzo. Two different road approachs are possible depending if you're coming from Bolzano or Belluno.

- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Highway, exit to Bressanone and take the Val Pusteria, getting Brunico and Dobbiaco; here turn to right to Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin and then Cortina d’Ampezzo. In Cortina take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. - From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 to Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; in Pieve turn to left, getting to Cortina d’Ampezzo, and here take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego as for the previous point.

The starting point of the three different possible approachs to Cinque Torri is the road Cortina – Falzarego.

Approachs to Cinque Torri

Three possibilities:

- by the Cinque Torri chair lift near to Rifugio Scoiattoli m 2255; the chair-lift station is situated along the main Falzarego road near the Rif. Bàin de Dònes 1889 m, about 3 km before (east) of Passo Falzarego if coming from Cortina d'Ampezzo.

- by foot on the path rising from the chair-lift station to Rifugio Scoiattoli m 2255

- by car to Rifugio Cinque Torri m. 2137; coming from Cortina d'Ampezzo take the road Cortina - Passo Falzarego, pass the locality of Pocol and after about 2 km turn to left on the road to Rifugio Scoiattoli

Route

The easiest and best route to climb the airy summit of Torre Lusy is the Route Pompanin, certainly one of the most popular medium difficulty routes of the whole Cinque Torri area. It starts in the middle of the North face.

L1 - III+, 32 m -  Climb up L to an obvious niche (III). Leave this on the R and go up to the edge (IV) then back R to a belay stance on the R edge.

L2 - III, 18 m - Go diagonally R to the other edge and up this few M (III).

L3 - III+, 20 m Traverse L onto the east face (III) and then directly back to the ridge (III+).

L4 - IV-, 25 m  traverse a little R, obliquely right to the NW ridge (III). Climb the ridge for 6m (IV) then back L(III) to a stance on the edge.

L5 - III, 20 m Climb up the ridge for 3m, then traverse L to a crack (III) which leads to a ledge.

L6 - II 10 m Go L on the ledge, then direct to the summit.

Descent: from the top downclimb (II grade UIAA) for a few meters on the West side. When you reach a ledge, do an air abseil 40 meters long that will take you to land on a boulder at the base of the wall

Red Tape

No fees no permits needed to climb or hike. Be aware that during the summer months the road to Rifugio Scoiattoli is subject to regulation (usually it's open to private cars only before 9 a.m. and after 16 p.m.

When to Climb

Best months are June, July, August, September, October

Huts and other accomodation

- Rifugio Scoiattoli

- Rifugio Cinque Torri

Many kind of accomodation in Cortina and surrounding: hotel, b&b, apartments, huts, camping

Meteo

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

Guidebooks and maps

“Arrampicare a Cortina d’Ampezzo e dintorni – Le vie più belle nelle Dolomiti” by Mauro Bernardi Ed. Athesia “Dolomiti Orientali Vol. I – Parte I” by Antonio Berti - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI

"Dolomiti Ampezzane" - TABACCO N. 03 1:25000