Location and ApproachThe normal route up Toubkal (from the huts) passes between Tizi Ouanoums on the south, and a spur of Toubkal on the north. This spur rises almost directly from the the huts and in mid-winter holds a labyrinth of ice gullies and enticing snow or mixed lines. As seen from afar it is a pyramid shaped peak with a numerous prominent cracks and chimenys carving lines into its steeper rock sections. The gully lines tend only to come into view if inspected from afar.
The approach time from hut to start of roped climbing is as little as 20 minutes, making this peak an excellent starter crag for alpine routes in the range. Descending from the summit ridge is relatively simple with a conspicuous system of ledges leading back down to the normal route of the Toubkal trail.