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Couloir de Neige
Route

Couloir de Neige

 
Couloir de Neige

Page Type: Route

Location: Morocco, Africa

Lat/Lon: 31.06768°N / 7.96368°W

Object Title: Couloir de Neige

Route Type: Mixed

Season: Winter

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.9 (YDS)

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
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Page By: MattHC

Created/Edited: Dec 30, 2007 / Jan 6, 2008

Object ID: 369191

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Overview

 
Bottom Section
Bottom Section
This is probably the hardest gully in the area. It can be quite an undertaking with rusting and bent pitons for protection!! Bring extra pro.

Getting There

From Imlil up to Tizi Mzek and then traverse the mountains parrallel to the Ouarzane valley. Pass the Cascade d'Irhouliden (Waterfalls) continue up to the Lepiney refuge (hut).

Route Description

 
Second Pitch
Second Pitch
The first section is steep, but of no particular difficulty. At the obvious choke cross a band of rocks to the first pitch. This is a steep mixed climb, poorly protected by pitons. It is at least 5.9, possibly 5.10a. I partially dried tooled it, depending on conditions you may want to take rock boots. At the top of the first steep wall, traverse up to the right and belay near the next steep section. Pitch 2 is deceptive, the first steps are fine, but the pull over into the easier section is very awkward. Find a belay point. The next section is steep, choose whether to rope up properly, move together or go independent. We roped as my partner broke his shoulder on the second pitch.

Essential Gear

Winter = rope, pro, ice axes, crampons, helmets (good amount of stones flying down) - the works.

External Links

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Images

Couloir de NeigeSecond PitchBottom Section