Transformer Corridor, 5.9-5.11a

Overview/Approach

(Dow leading Live Wire, 5.10c***, in above photo)

We found that Transformer Corridor paired nicely with Flaming Rock which is home to the City of Rocks classic, Tribal Boundaries (5.10b).    There are only a pair of moderate routes on the steep west face of Flaming Rock, then if you descend and cross the drainage below, you will find Transformer Corridor, which has a solid selection of climbs on both walls similar to grade/difficulty as Tribal.  The left (east facing) wall has one of my favorite City of Rocks mixed (pro) climbs named Chomping at the Bit (5.11a).  It also has a long (full 35m) bolted arête named Mystery Bolter (5.9).  The opposing side of the corridor has quite a few additional popular mixed climbs: Vibrator (5.10d), Short Circuit (5.10a) and Live Wire (5.10c).  Most require a mix of small gear along with fixed pro.

You can approach the Transformer Corridor from either Parking Lot Rock or Campsite #30.  If from the campsite, simply follow the trail past Flaming Rock and cross South Creek to enter the obvious corridor.  If from Parking Lot Rock, descend the north end and continue down to the creek past Rabbit Rock on your left.  Follow the creek trail down and to the obvious narrow corridors on your left.  Transformer is the 2^nd one you come to.

Routes Listed Left to Right Facing the East Facing Wall

Chomping at the Bit- 80’-5.11a***/ Unfortunately lost my notes on this one from quite a few years ago, but remember really liking it.  Mixed lead.  Dow

Mystery Bolter- 110’-5.9**/ Fully bolted arete climb, remember it being a bit soft if anything, but worth doing.  Dow

Routes Listed Right to Left Facing the West Facing Wall

Just a Pretty Day- 80’-5.10a/

Live Wire- 80’-5.10c***/ First mixed line at the right side of the west face of the formation.  Of all the routes on this face, this one offers the most injury potential.  Some would be sketched out at the first two meters of unprotected moves, but I consider this start mellow considering the grade of the route.  It is the traverse up and left on slanting cracks above a ledge whilst placing gear where a leader at his/her limit could potentially get pumped out.  After that it is mostly bolts to the shared fixed rap with Short Circuit.  Neat slab move at the finish.  Single rack, small gear, several draws.  Dow

Short Circuit- 80’-5.10a***/ A one move wonder at the grade.  After the first clip, dyno for a large knob or make for a reachy jug up and left.  Either way, it is all quite positive terrain to the shared fixed rap with Live Wire.  Single rack, small gear, several draws.  Dow

Vibrator- 80’-5.10d**/ By far my favorite route on the wall despite the guide giving it less credence than a few of the others.  Clip one bolt and then gear through the crux feature-pull and continue with more gear until you hit bolts higher up again, about 50/50 on gear vs bolts.  The guide calls the first feature you run into a height dependent lay back, but for 5’11”, it seemed more juggy than a conventional lay back situation.  Small to medium single rack plus draws.  Fixed rap atop the route.  Dow

Heat Wave- 75’-5.10c**/

Dynamo Hum- 75’-5.10c**/ Fully bolted climb. The crux move is more difficult than Vibrator.  After a traverse in from the right and maybe two clips, you make a hard and sharp crimp down, one move, to advance straight up at the grade.  Then back to typical positive terrain found on this wall to a fixed rap.   Dow