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Wasatch Range (Central) > Pfeifferhorn > Wasatch Alpine Classic: North Ridge, Pfeifferhorn (Photo Trip Report November 2008).
Wasatch Alpine Classic: North Ridge, Pfeifferhorn (Photo Trip Report November 2008).
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Wasatch Alpine Classic: North Ridge, Pfeifferhorn (Photo Trip Report November 2008). Featured on the Front Page

Page Type: Trip Report

Location: Utah, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 40.53370°N / 111.7052°W

Date Climbed/Hiked: Nov 22, 2008

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Winter

 

Page By: marauders

Created/Edited: Nov 25, 2008 / Nov 27, 2008

Object ID: 466312

Hits: 3656 

Page Score: 91.56% - 71 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Table of Contents

The Approach

The Lower Portion of the North Ridge

The Middle Portion of the North Ridge

The Crux & The Summit

Conclusion

Images

The Approach

In early November, the Wasatch Mountains of Utah received a series of storms covering the central range in four feet of luscious, powder snow. For two weeks, the skiing was good; but a continuation of warm, dry weather reduced the snowpack to a stout sun crust over sugar. From a skiing perspective this was depressing, but for early season winter climbing it was phenomenal! Lesson learned: If the snow gods give you a lemon...climb it!

Climbers: Alec, Brenton, Levi, Matt.

Enlarge
The North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn (middle-left).


 
Enlarge
Climbing the northeast couloir. Early season conditions provided some good mixed climbing that needed to be protected.

 
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Pfeifferhorn poking above the forest.
 
Enlarge
Traveling through Maybird Gulch.
 
Enlarge
Approaching the northeast couloir (Variation B).
 
Enlarge
The base of the couloir. Our first sun of the day (almost our only sun of the day).

The Lower Portion of the North Ridge

The northeast couloir maxed out around 50 degrees with a good mixed section. From this couloir we gained the north ridge. Brenton (fowweezer) began the climb through 4th class terrain. Although powder snow glazed many of the rocks, ample protection opportunities made the climb safe overall.
 
Enlarge
Matt (marauders) considering the options ahead, below the Lightning Bolt Crack.

 
Enlarge
Nearing the mixed portion of the northeast couloir (Variation B).
 
Enlarge
Matt (marauders) leading the mixed portion of the northeast couloir.
 
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The snow glazed rock of the lower north ridge.
 
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The first portion of good, bare granite along the lower north ridge.

The Middle Portion of the North Ridge

After some good 4th class granite, the middle portion of the north ridge provides a fun, exposed traverse across a granite slab that ends in a steep couloir down the northwest face of Pfeifferhorn. Initially the slab looks harder than it really is. There is a network of cracks that provides secure footholds.
 
Enlarge
Brenton (fowweezer) leading the traverse.

 
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Alec (PocketsOfBlue) providing a useful belay.
 
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Brenton (fowweezer) reapproaching the crest of the north ridge.
 
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Looking down on the granite slab. Just don't look down while your on it.
 
Enlarge
Alec (PocketsOfBlue) making his way across the slab.

The Crux & The Summit

After the granite slab, the north ridge narrows substantially and is bisected by the Lightning Bolt Crack. The crack appears slightly overhanging, with minimal features. Can it be climbed? Definitely. But that's not my cup of tea. Instead we took the standard route to the east of the crack. This circumvention places you on the northeast face where the crux moves exist. The 5.3 moves are simple, but the steep terrain, snow, crampons and gloves give it some added spice. Why climb this in the snow? Well, the ridge is normally a loose pile of granite. So the snow and ice help hold the rocks together. Don't dwell on that too much as you look between your legs!

 
Enlarge
The crux moves circumventing the Lightning Bolt Crack.

 
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Brenton leading toward the crux.
 
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Looking straight down the northeast face. So exactly which rocks are solid?
 
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The last snow ridge to the summit.
 
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Descending the east ridge of the Pfeifferhorn.

Conclusion

Few climbs have provided the full adventure and satisfaction of the North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn.
Great weather, great conditions, and superb partners. Life is rarely this perfect.

Enlarge
Glissading down Maybird Headwall.

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Skiing down Maybird Gulch in early season conditions.

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Alec and the sunset.

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The North Ridge of the Pfeifferhorn.

Images



Comments

[ Post a Comment ]
Viewing: 1-20 of 30 « PREV 1 2 NEXT »

Moogie737Wow

Hasn't voted

That's all I can say: Wow. Nice going, you guys. A good example for all of us. Thanks.
Posted Nov 26, 2008 10:47 am

Scott WesemannGreat Pics

Voted 10/10

Thanks for posting.
Posted Nov 26, 2008 11:06 am

Deltaoperator17Very Nice Picture Story

Voted 10/10

I just love picturebooks stories! thank you for sharing these!

All my best,

Steve
Posted Nov 26, 2008 11:09 am

Matthew Van HornAnother beauty

Voted 10/10

Good work!
Posted Nov 26, 2008 11:35 am

d_shorbsuper

Voted 10/10

duper rad guys.

Life is rarely that perfect, Matt. . . . . . . Unless you're in the Wasatch.
Posted Nov 26, 2008 8:20 pm

maraudersRe: super

Hasn't voted

Ah, so true.
Posted Nov 27, 2008 9:07 pm

Sierra Ledge RatCoooooool

Voted 10/10

Cool photos, looks like fun!
Posted Nov 27, 2008 8:27 pm

maraudersThanks...

Hasn't voted

...everyone for the kind words.
Posted Nov 27, 2008 8:53 pm

tommiGreat

Voted 10/10

Really great, the photos are amazing, you did such a good job.
Thanks for sharing!
Posted Nov 28, 2008 3:09 am

wyopeakMikegreat pics

Voted 10/10

awesome photos made me feel like I was on the route with you. Awesome job, well done!
Posted Nov 30, 2008 12:04 pm

tbacusLucky

Hasn't voted

We are all so lucky to have climbs like this in our backyard.
Posted Nov 30, 2008 1:57 pm

PellucidWombatSooo jealous . . .

Hasn't voted

Kudos on an excellent climb!Plus you did a wonderful job documenting it with those excellent photos.

Cheers.
Posted Nov 30, 2008 2:40 pm

maraudersRe: Sooo jealous . . .

Hasn't voted

I loved your beta shots on this route, and I was mistakenly waiting for the sun to hit the east side of the ridge to get some cool lighting. Unfortunately, the November sunlight is far too low in the south sky. I'd like to hit the route again in March/April when the sun is a bit higher. I bet the photos would be even better.
Posted Dec 1, 2008 3:11 pm

phxphotogWell done.

Voted 10/10

Great photography and story telling.Thanks for sharing your trip.

Cheers!
Posted Nov 30, 2008 3:30 pm

edubbsBeautiful

Voted 10/10

Great photos, looks like a wonderful place to be. Well done!
Posted Nov 30, 2008 6:58 pm

imontopRight on man!

Voted 10/10

Cool stuff as usual! Very nice photos!
Posted Nov 30, 2008 10:16 pm

GarfimiAMAZING!!!

Voted 10/10

Very well written trip. Excellent pictures. Pfeifferhorn is my favorite peak in the Central Wasatch. Awesome!
Posted Nov 30, 2008 10:40 pm

FortMentalHoly Crud!

Voted 10/10

Who would have thought that the Wasatch had routes like this! Your report made me deeply envious of never having done that route when I lived there...oh well!

Your write-up and pictures are an example of how a well executed trip report inspires one to make that detour and do that climb when visiting a different city!

....keep it up!
Posted Dec 1, 2008 2:37 pm

maraudersRe: Holy Crud!

Hasn't voted

Thanks! While the Wasatch is not a major alpine destination, there are definitely a few gems.
Posted Dec 1, 2008 3:09 pm

COTrekker02Awesome

Hasn't voted

This is why I love SLC and the Wasatch. Great job, guys! I hope to climb the Pheifferhorn next Summer.
Posted Dec 1, 2008 7:35 pm

Viewing: 1-20 of 30 « PREV 1 2 NEXT »


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