Upper Bread Loaves Northwest, 5.8-5.12c

Overview/Approach

Interceptor, 5.11a

Interceptor (5.11a) is one of the more unique trad climbs in the entire City of Rocks area.  Although it is a bit short and shares the same start with Tide Country, the contrast between it and other routes at the City is sharp. There are few overhanging hand sized cracks that can garner a 5.11 rating, but the reachy crux after the traverse out of Tide warrants it. After that it is all gravy, pulling an overhanging hand/fist crack to the top. Hard to beat this much fun anywhere. Of course Tide Country (5.10a) is every bit worth doing as well. The only fixed anchor is directly above Interceptor. Aspen Leaf, 5.10a**, and Stretch Marks, 5.9**, are two more worthy trad routes on this formation.

I rarely spend any time at Breadloaves due to the dogs, boom boxes, crying babies and just general overcrowding of the SLC gym crowd. But in August on a weekday, you can rest assured of having this north end (Interceptor) to yourselves not to mention that the grades at this end are a good detractor. Turn left off the main road like you are going for the main Breadloaves parking area and immediately pull out on the left. Scramble left, then back right, up a few boulders to a very cool belay spot down and left from Interceptor and Tide. To climb these routes, you need to do an easy chimney traverse to get to their base, leaving your belayer behind. 

NORTHWEST FACE   Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

• Route 66- 5.8*/

• Stolen Thunder- 5.12c/

• Interceptor- 5.11a***/ One of the more unique trad climbs in the entire City of Rocks area. Although it is a bit short and shares the same start with Tide Country, the contrast between it and other routes at the City is sharp. There are few overhanging hand sized cracks that can garner a 5.11 rating, but the reachy crux after the traverse left left (double sling your last pro) out of Tide warrants it. Metolious #0 or #00 protects the move precariously for a shorter person (trying to protect falling back into the corner). If you are taller, you can almost start the overhanging portion with hands. After that it is all gravy, pulling an overhanging hand crack to the top tossing your feet back to the wall for leverage. Dyno or reach (height dependent) for the first hanging hand jam. Jam your way up until it turns to fists and continue to the top to a fixed rap with fist jams. Dow

• Tide Country- 5.10a**/ Not as good as its brethren to the left (Interceptor), but a worthy 5.10 trad lead. Stay with the corner pulling the roof with steep hands into the chimney. Traverse up and left to reach the rap above Interceptor. Dow

• North Corner- 5.6/

WEST FACE   Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the Wall

• Make Mine Wide and Flaring- 5.10/

• Cam-a-Lot- 5.10/

• Covered Wagon- 5.10/

• Built for Comfort, 5.10a**/ Like all bolted lines at Bread Loaves, this route is softly graded and over bolted. This line along with Muffin Top and Love Handles, offer three side by side 90’ sport climbs and help create the Salt Lake City gym climbing experience often found at Bread Loaves, “dog shit, blaring music and crying babies” as I have infamously coined the experience.  On a stormy mid-week day during the Coronavirus epidemic, I took the opportunity to venture to the west side which I normally would not touch with a ten-foot pole.  There were only two other parties the entire day but wouldn’t you have guessed, one brought a large off leash dog and one a blaring boom box to give that extra incentive on that nasty 5.8 over bolted send!  End of rant.  Nothing memorable about these routes, “two stars” attributed in the local guide is mis leading to say the least.  There is so much better sport and trad at the City, get out and explore a little.  Dow

• Bad Crack- 5.8*/

• Muffin Top, 5.8**/ The only reason these side by side fully bolted routes get “two stars” is because the local guide if directed at SLC gym urbanites.  Otherwise the bolted routes on Upper Bread Loaves North are soft for the grade, indistinguishable/nonmemorable and over bolted.  Climb the right side of the crack (Bad Crack, 5.8*). Dow

• Love Handles, 5.8**/ More interesting than Muffin Top, but still soft for the grade.  Offers a bulge which allows for a bit of steepness.  “Too many” bolts to fixed rap, arcing back left and a bit higher than Muffin. Start just left of a tree.  Dow

• Aspen Leaf, 5.10a**/ The best trad lead at the Bread Loaves regardless of grade.  Look for the crack originating out of a small alcove at the south end of Upper Bread Loaves.  Scramble up to the base, the belayer can remain below.  More of a 5.9 positive and physical hand crack lead with a slight overhang start.  Fun stemming with hand jams until you pull over to the lower angled ground above.   Medium gear belay.  Can rap Tel Aviv to the south.  Gear to #3.  Dow

• Tel Aviv, 5.12b**/

• Stretch Marks, 5.9**/ One of two worthwhile trad climbs located at the south end of Upper Bread Loaves Northwest.  Pry yourself away from the soft and over bolted sport climbs out left and brave these two short gems (Aspen Leaf, 5.10a**).  Stretch Marks is the curving thin flake corner essentially on the south face of the formation, just to the right of a bolted line named Tel Aviv, 5.12b**. It is an obvious line and takes small to medium gear.  Fun and steep stem moves to the top.  50’ route, belay out of a narrow corridor. Shared rap anchor with Tel Aviv.  Single to #2.  Dow